ed market trader somehow appears im- peccably dressed. But what does “Ital- ian style” really mean in 2025? The global perception of Italian fashion has for dec- ades been shaped by two archetypes: the sharply tailored, double-breasted ele- gance of Milanese tailoring and the sun- kissed, linen sprezzatura of the Amalfi Coast. However, today's Italy is inscrib- ing new rules of style. If you look beyond the impeccably attired gentlemen at Pitti Uomo and the Dolce Vita fantasy of Pos- itano, you'll find a new wave of Italian fashion – one that’s more daring, wilder and far more experimental than the cli- chés suggest. If you are among those who pay close at- tention of the Sanremo Music Festival, you might have already noticed this par- adigm shift in the image of stars like El- odie, Damiano David from rock band Måneskin and, of course, Mahmood. However, if you’re not interested in light notes with a touch of drama, it is enough to walk the streets of Milan during Fash- ion Week. Yes, there are still precisely tai- lored suits and polished leather loafers, but now they’re presented alongside ar- chive Margiela coats, absurdly oversized Bottega Veneta bags and Prada tank tops paired with cargo pants that are so wide that they could be used as parachutes. Lying at the heart of this transforma- tion is a change in attitude. Italian fash- ion has always been about self-confi- dence – about wearing clothes with the ease of someone who knows how to look good but doesn't feel the need to accen- tuate the fact. That self-confidence today belongs to a generation that isn’t afraid to combine Gucci with second-hand Mo- schino, to carry a Fendi Baguette bag while wearing football shorts or to wear a Marni mohair cardigan as a second skin. In short, today's Italian style isn’t about following the rules blindly – rath- er it’s about knowing them so well that you can break them in the most beautiful possible way. This has even been noticed by Italy’s most famous fashion houses. Valentino has bowed to the sheer sen- suality of those rare finds from fabulous flea markets, Prada has turned ugly-chic into the ultimate luxury, while brands like Blumarine and GCDS have embraced Y2K absurdity with a distinctive Ital- ian sense of humour. In the meantime, a new generation of designers – includ-
ing the likes of Andrea Adamo, who rede- fines fashion that follows the contours of the body, or Niccolò Pasqualetti, whose sculptural pieces seem like wearable art – are showing that the future of Italian fashion is as innovative as its past. So, does Italian style still imply perfect- ly tailored suits? Of course it does, if that’s your choice. But today it also im- plies a surreal Diesel denim set, a pair of archival Cavalli boots that scream for at- tention, or a Loewe dress that looks as though it’s stepped out of a Renaissance painting. These are contradictions that function perfectly. And who are the contemporary icons of the local style if they aren’t actresses and hit performers? Italian grannies! The Sci- ura – that Milanese institution of chic el- derly ladies has long been used as an icon of style and is regularly referenced with respect by Italian brands like Fendi, Pra- da and Dolce & Gabbana. And this refer- ence dates back to the very beginnings of Italian glamour, though it really flour- ished sometime around 2023. It can still be recognised in the strict stitching of
woollen jackets, in the sound of the clink- ing of 18-karat gold bracelets and neck- laces, in silk scarves of dusty pastel tones and cashmere rollnecks in shades of Marchesi candies. But also, above all, in the fur that spreads extravagantly from collars and cuffs. Gucci may have a buckle as its trademark, but the Sciura represent the true symbol of this fashion house. The archetype has this season become even more unusual: neon fluff instead of rich brown mink fur; crop tops under short jackets—thanks to Gen Z’s obses- sion that these Italian matriarchs recent- ly discovered and celebrated on the inter- net. There’s an Instagram profile called Sciura Glam, which stalks these ladies like they’re K-pop stars. TikTok videos are appearing that show Valentino muses holding tiny puffy microphones and pre- tending – very badly – that it isn’t clear to them why anyone is even interested in them. That’s because, at the end of the day, Ital- ian style isn't just what you wear—but rather how you wear it. And that, cari miei, will never go out of fashion.
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