Vine Wise
This time it’s personal
By Adam Lee
I n my last column, I pursuit of it undeniably pushes winemakers to elevate quality. However, one question remains: Do consumers actually want the perfect wine? Wine critic Stephen Reinhardt once described a perfect wine as something that “touches my soul and explored the idea of “the perfect wine.” While perfection may be unattainable, the my brain,” a wine that creates such a profound experience that “emptying the bottle is like reading a great book or a great work
is invaluable. Of course, authenticity is key. We’ve all seen wineries craft polished, overly manufactured “stories” that feel forced. Consumers can sense when a story is real and when it’s marketing fluff. The challenge isn’t creating a story—it’s uncovering the real story and telling it well. One of my favorite examples of a personal wine—or rather, a personal winery—comes from the Pisoni family in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Before they became well- known winemakers, the
of art.” This perspective highlights an important truth— perfection in wine is deeply personal. What resonates as perfect for one person may not hold the same magic for another. For years, however, there was little doubt that consumers sought perfection—at least, perfection as defined by critics. As Tom Wark wrote in his Fermentation blog in 2001, “Quite simply, a 100-point rating from Robert Parker guarantees a wine not only sells out, but sells out at an extraordinarily rapid pace.” While today’s consumers are less fixated on scores, high ratings still drive sales. A 98-plus score will always turn heads. But I’d argue that there’s something consumers seek even more than the elusive “perfect wine.” And best of all, this is something every winemaker and winery owner can achieve: a personal wine. A personal wine isn’t defined by a score or a collection of tasting notes. Instead, it reflects the heart of the person who made it. It carries a story—perhaps a meaningful vineyard moment, a family tradition or an emotion the wine evokes. If a perfect wine reveals something about the person reviewing it, a personal wine reveals something about the person who made it. In my own experience, I see this firsthand. When I send out a mailer emphasizing scores, some people respond and purchase wine. But when I share a personal story about a wine—why it matters to me, what makes it special—that’s when I receive heartfelt replies from customers telling me how much it resonated with them. That kind of connection
Pisonis were simply farmers with a deep love for the land. Their early newsletters weren’t filled with critical acclaim but with stories—like Eddie Pisoni finding a rugged plot of land seemingly suited only for cattle, and his son Gary insisting that it could grow great vines. Or how Jane Pisoni (Eddie’s wife) would shoot deer that dared to wander into the vineyard. These personal, raw and authentic tales created a deep connection with their customers. As their wines gained national recognition, the narrative naturally shifted toward accolades. But recently, the Pisonis returned to their roots. They released a stunning video that revisits their original story—this time with the wisdom of experience. (Check it out at blog. pisonivineyards.com .) This is what I believe wineries should be doing: rediscovering and sharing their real, personal stories. The perfect wine may be subjective, but a personal wine—one that is genuine, heartfelt and human—is something every winemaker can offer. And more than any score, that’s what consumers truly want . U
Adam Lee co-founded Siduri Wines in 1994, selling it to Jackson Family Winery in 2015. He now produces and owns Clarice Wine Company, and consults with numerous different wineries, including Rombauer Vineyards on their Pinot Noir project.
March 2025
NorthBaybiz 51
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