"$56"-*5 4r/&84 A QUICK CUMBERLAND SÉJOUR FOR MAKER FEED CO. AND BEEF WELLINGTON
ANDREW COPPOLINO andrewcoppolino@gmail.com
2I[ &IKMRRMRK 'LYVGL j+FQFOTFRVFÉBNPOUSFRVFMFTDPOTFSWB UFVSTTPOUUPVKPVSTMÆQPVSQSPUÊHFSMFT1%(EFT HSBOEFTDPNQBHOJFT EFTQÊUSPMJÍSFTFUQVJTEFT CBORVFT NBJTÉB DhFTUOPSNBM NBJTÉBNPOUSF RVJFTUWÊSJUBCMFNFOU1JFSSF1PJMJFWSFv BEJU. Boulerice à La Presse Canadienne. CONTINUE SUR LA PAGE 10 QBTQBTTÊQBSRVBUSFDIFNJOTQPVSBDDVTFSMFT DPOTFSWBUFVSTEFSÊWÊMFSjMFVSWSBJWJTBHFv MPJO EhËUSFEFTBNJTEFTUSBWBJMMFVSTjRVJFVYQBJFOU EFMhJNQÔUTVSEFMFVSTBMBJSFv 5IF.'$PNFOVDIBOHFTSFHVMBSMZTBZT (BVNPOE BEEJOHUIBUUIFZBSFiOFWFSUIF same restaurant.” i8FUSZUPLFFQJUGSFTIBOEQMBZXJUI different foods and how we cook what we get from the farmers without being too clever.” However, like the historic dish itself, (BVNPOETBZTUIF8FMMJOHUPOJTBNFOV NBJOTUBZGPSUIFUJNFCFJOH “There’s something comforting about filet EFCVGFODSPÚUF uIFTBZTi*UTBNFBU BOEQPUBUPFTNFBMXJUIPVSQBSTOJQQVSÊF and a nice rich mustard sauce. And it’s one PGUIFPOMZ8FMMJOHUPOTBSPVOE8FDBOUUBLF it off the menu. It has become a staple.” 8FMMFTMFZ 5IF.'$PWFSTJPOIBTBMBZFSPGQSPT DJVUUPJOTJEFUPBEETPNFTBMUJOFTT (BV NPOETBZT5IFUJNFDPOTVNJOHQVGGQBTUSZ is sourced from an outside producer which IFTBZTJTBOFYDFMMFOUQBTUSZUIBUJTEJGàDVMU UPNBLFDPOTJTUFOUMZ i0VSLJUDIFOJTWFSZIPU FTQFDJBMMZJO TVNNFSuIFTBZTi8FPODFNBEFPVSPXO CVUXJUIUIFJODPOTJTUFOUIFBUBOEIVNJEJUZ in here, it’s hard to get it perfect.” And cooks strive for that perfect dish. Beef tenderloin is trimmed and portioned before it is cooked sous vide to a rare 110F; UIF8FMMJOHUPOTBSFUIFOiSFWFSTFuTFBSFE (rather than at the start of cooking), cooled BOEàOBMMZTXBEEMFEJOUIFJSQBTUSZBXBJUJOH the finishing cook. i5IF8FMMJOHUPOJTCBLFEUPPSEFS BOEJU UBLFTBCPVUNJOVUFTUPHFUUIFHPMEFO CSPXOQBTUSZBOEBNFEJVNSBSFDFOUSF u TBZT(BVNPOE
A self-described “military brat,” Michel Gaumond says he “found food” as a kid going to school in Germany, recounting a single instant where that appreciation was forged. “During a school field trip, I had some CSFBEXJUI8FTUQIBMJBOIBNBOE(SVZFSF CBLFESJHIUJOUPJU uIFTBZT i*CPVHIUBMPBGXJUINPOFZNZQBSFOUT had given me for the trip and finished the whole thing on the bus home. How could something be so delicious?” The chef and owner of Maker Feed Co. (MFCo.) located in Cumberland, would also UFMMIJTTJTUFSUIBUPOFEBZIFXBOUFEB house that had a room full of pickles and cured meats. “And now I have a restaurant that does that.” "GUFSBZFBSPGDVMJOBSZTDIPPM (BVNPOE left the formal learning environment and SFUVSOFEUPUIFIVSMZCVSMZPGQSPGFTTJPOBM cooking. i*XBTMFBSOJOHXBZNPSFPOUIFMJOFBU SFTUBVSBOUT uIFTBZTi5IFDPPLTNBZIBWF CFFODIBSBDUFST CVUUIFZUPPLUIFJSDSBGU TFSJPVTMZ"OE*MPWFUIFDBNBSBEFSJFu In parsing his restaurant’s name – Maker 'FFE$Pm(BVNPOEEFTDSJCFTBTUSBJHIU forward connection between the cooks, the producers and farmers, butchers and fishmongers (the “makers”) and the people UIFZGFFE IJTDVTUPNFST His business partner has a network of farmers that the kitchen draws on and LFFQTUIFNFOVBTMPDBMBOEBTSFTQPOTJCMZ QSPEVDFEBTQPTTJCMF iGBSNUPUBCMFuSFT UBVSBOUTBSFOPMPOHFSEFSJHFVSUIFZBSF UPEBZDPNNPOQMBDFBUBDFSUBJOFDIFMPOPG dining and that’s the approach here. 8JUIJUTFDMFDUJDEÊDPSJOTJEF UIFPME CVJMEJOHXBTPSJHJOBMMZBOBQPUIFDBSZTTUPSF and personal residence – “there are lots of TUPSJFTBCPVUUIFQSPQFSUZ uTBZT(BVNPOEm and has been a couple of restaurants before he opened MFCo. during the business roller coaster of the pandemic in 2020. There are 65 seats over three floors with DBQBDJUZEPVCMJOHXJUITVNNFSUJNFQBUJPT (BVNPOEDBMMT.'$PBEFTUJOBUJPOEJOJOH spot with 30 per cent of his customers travelling from Ottawa and Montreal. 5IFLJUDIFODPPLTXIBUZPVMMàOEBUB 'SFODICJTUSP"DDPSEJOHUP(BVNPOE IF MJLFTUIFSFMBUJWFTJNQMJDJUZPGUIFDVJTJOF that then might branch off into something Vietnamese or Moroccan, but there are French connections there too. 5IFDVSSFOUTQSJOHNFOVJTBIBMGEP[FO BQQFUJ[FSTBOETPVQTBOEBNBJODPVSTF MJOFVQPGCJTUSPDMBTTJDTDPOàU NPVMFT GSJUFT CFVSSFCMBOD TBVDF#ÊBSOBJTFmUIF offspring of “Mother Sauce” Hollandaise with CVUUFS FHHZPML WJOFHBSBOEIFSCT 4BMBEF/JÉPJTFIBTBTVSGUXFBLPGUVOB BOESPBTUTBSEJOF QMVTUIFSFTáBUJSPOTUFBL frites with Bordelaise. Citing that there are not a lot of similar NFOVTJOUIFBSFB JUTBOJDIF(BVNPOE TBZTUIFZTUSJWFUPàMM i"UUIFSFTUBVSBOUT*WFCFFOUPSFDFOUMZ JUTMJLFFWFSZPOFJTCFJOHUPPDMFWFS*XBOU people to read the menu here and know
Le chef Michel Gaumond, propriétaire de Maker Feed Co., explique que son menu change régulièrement, mais que le bœuf Wellington fait toujours l’unanimité. (Michel Gaumond)
XIBUXJMMCFPOUIFJSQMBUF8FNBLFUIBUJO PVSTUZMFUPUBTUFSFBMMZHPPEu Consider the filet de bœuf en croûte – #FFG8FMMJOHUPO iPOFPGUIFNPTUDMBTTJD EJTIFT u(BVNPOETBZT UIBUNBOZPGUIPTF travelling diners are seeking. Pinning down the origin of the dish is JNQPTTJCMFBOEGFX JGBOZ USVFSFDJQFT BSFFYUBOU CVUJUTIJTUPSZJTOFWFSUIFMFTT interesting: it’s often credited as being a USBEJUJPOBMBOECPOBàEF&OHMJTIEJTIOBNFE GPSUIF%VLFPG8FMMJOHUPO 'PSBMMIJTNBOJBDBM57QFSTPOBSBOUJOH DIFG(PSEPO3BNTBZJTBOFYUSBPSEJOBSZ DPPLXJUITFWFSBM.JDIFMJOTUBSSFESFTUBV rants who, in his “Master Class,” prepares BQFSGFDU#FFG8FMMJOHUPO His recipe includes Dijon mustard, some
prosciutto and a chive crêpe to help keep UIFQBTUSZGSPNHFUUJOHTPHHZ BMPOHXJUIUIF traditional mushroom duxelles. But the truth is that cooks have been QBDLJOHJOHSFEJFOUTJOUPQBTUSZGPSNPSF UIBOGPVSIVOESFEZFBST *O iQJFDSVTUFSFBUFSuXBTBUFSN PGEJTQBSBHFNFOU BOEJOBSJTUPDSBUJD&MJ[B CFUIBOSFTJEFODFT BOZOVNCFSPGQSPUFJOT XFSFDPPLFEJOUIJDL UPVHIQBTUSZTIFMMT called a “coffin,” which was cracked open and discarded (or fed to the dogs that iXPSLFEuJOUIFLJUDIFOT BOEUIFNFBUZ contents inside served and eaten. In France, filet de bœuf en croûte is a DIVOLPGCFFGDPPLFEJOQBTUSZUIBU HJWFO IJTUPSJDBMJOUFSOBUJPOBMSFMBUJPOT DFSUBJOMZ wouldn’t be honouring a Brit like Arthur
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Après huit semaines d'un silence assourdissant, les conservateurs ont finalement révélé mardi qu'ils sont contre la hausse d'impôt sur les gains en capital de plus de 250 000 $, lorsque les libéraux ont forcé la tenue d'un vote spécifiquement sur cette mesure fis- cale. Tous les autres partis ont voté pour. Prenant la parole à la Chambre des com m VOFTFOBQSÍTNJEJ MFDIFG1JFSSF1PJMJFWSF BBGàSNÊRVFTFTUSPVQFTThPQQPTFOUÆDF RVhJMBEÊDSJUDPNNFjVOFOPVWFMMFUBYFvRVJWB jBVHNFOUFSMFDPÚUEFMBOPVSSJUVSF SFOESF MFTNÊEFDJOTNPJOTEJTQPOJCMFT FU SFOESF MFTDIÍRVFTEFQBJFQMVTQFUJUTv -FQSFNJFSNJOJTUSF+VTUJO5SVEFBVThFTU FNQSFTTÊ EhBDDVTFS MFT DPOTFSWBUFVST EF jEÊGFOESFEFTBWBOUBHFTQPVSMFTQMVTSJDIFT EBOTDFQBZTvBMPSTRVFMFTMJCÊSBVY FVY EFNBOEFOUEFQBZFSjVOQFUJUQFVQMVTvQPVS contribuer notamment aux investissements dans MBDPOTUSVDUJPOEFMPHFNFOUTQPVSjMFTKFVOFTv FUMFTTPJOTEFOUBJSFTQPVSjMFTBÏOÊTv j*MTFTTBJFOUUPVTEFQSÊTFOUFSMFTDIPTFT EFOFVGGBÉPOTEJGGÊSFOUFT-BSÊBMJUÊFTURVJMT POUMBQPTTJCJMJUÊEFWPUFSBWFDMFT$BOBEJFOT EFMBDMBTTFNPZFOOFFUJMTDIPJTJTTFOUEFWPUFS DPOUSFFVYv BUJMFOWPZÊMPSTEFMBQÊSJPEFEFT RVFTUJPOT ©MhIFVSFBDUVFMMF MFT$BOBEJFOTRVJSÊBMJTFOU
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