others out in the shallows. When we passed over the area at a lower altitude,
these rocks metamorphosed into lounging, swimming, fighting, and “arfing” fur seals
thousands of them. We were told that about 20,000 stay in this area year round. They
are wonderfully fluids creatures in the water but awkward and endearing o n
land. We greatly enjoyed seei ng them sporting in their natural environment.
As we flew for two hours over this desolation (perhaps a preview of what more
of the earth will resemble due to catastrophic climate change?), the four us
wondered behind the deafening noise of the engine where in all this chaos of rock,
sand and gravel could there be hidden a tourist camp for visiting desert rhinos?
We landed on a plateau in the middle of nowhere on a clearly manmade strip but
as in Ozymandias , the desert stretched around like a wasteland. As we hesitantly and
more than a little apprehensively disembarked the noisy dragonfly which had
deposited us here in this “nothingness,” we heard another loud engine sound
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