THE RETURN OF AUSTERE TAILORING The unplanned
chic of a cold Parisian night
Autumn announces the arrival of the accentuated lines of jackets, coats and blazers – but this time they have more sensual styling than ever before W hen it comes to fashion styles, we’ve grown accustomed to seductively fem- inine themes and discreetly tailored pieces being at opposite ends of the scale of fashion elements and thus rarely meeting – or at least not in a planned way. But this autumn’s trends are here to change our minds: their essence lies in combining the seemingly incompatible. Never before has clothing that borrows its struc- ture from men’s sartorial principles been presented to us so tenderly as it is at the fashion shows devoted to the current season. Jackets, coats and blazers - as the protagonists of style during colder days, are no longer restrained, but rather burst with sex appeal provided by fresh design ideas. When French fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent pre- sented his (then shocking) vision of a woman wearing a man’s tuxedo over a naked body many years ago, he couldn’t have predicted that his fashion house succes- sor, Anthony Vaccarello, would take this idea in a new direction by coupling austere blazers and jackets with ethereal dresses of powder pink tulle. The effect is like when a gentleman lends his jacket to a lady wearing a delicate gown on a cold Parisian night – chic that is un- planned, but not unexpected. Another fashion house with a rich tradition is wel- coming the digital age by updating the tailoring DNA that was added to each cut by the founder: we’re re- ferring to Dior, whose brashest feminist creator, Ma- ria Grazia Chiuri, has literally flipped the salon tem- plate of Christian’s “New Look” on its head by placing a corset frame over a heavy coat of luxurious fabric. This was simultaneously an homage and a manifesto: Women have long since ceased dressing to catch the eye of some man - but that will happen regardless if they wear these kinds of bold interpretations of mas- culine/feminine contrast. Virginie Viard, the longtime closest associate of Kai- ser Karl and current reigning creative leader at Chanel, is very familiar with the style lingo of the famous Lager- feld and the legendary Coco, which is why she’s provid- ing new energy to the postulates of Chanel charm that’s
Kostur korseta preko kaputa od teškog, luksuznog štofa A corset frame over a heavy coat of luxurious fabric
60 | Moda » Fashion
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