Glamur i kristali Nova kolekcija visoke mode Zvon- ka Markovića govori o ljubavi i pršti od glamura i kristala. Radeći je, pokušao je da pobegne od svakodnevice ko- ja nas sve opterećuje pravo u antičke mitove i priču o otmici Evrope, koja je na njega delovala poput terapije. Mit mu je dao osnovu da modnim jezikom stvori bajku. – Evropa, koju je zaveo Zevs, bila je fe- ničanska princeza, a on joj je kao svo- joj velikoj ljubavi, posvetio sazvežđe. Ova legenda nije slučajno odabrana baš sad kad je Evropa u previranjima. Pokušao sam da kroz modele ilustru- jem bogove i smrtnike, poslednji mo- del sa kristalima i biserima koji se slivaju oko devojke simbolično pred- stavlja otetu Evropu obavijenu mor- skom penom. Ona umesto vela nosi krunu od lišća i cveća sa bikovim ro- govima. Simbolična venčanica sa do- dirom pozorišne drame – objašnja- va kreator.
ate fashion more in a desire to push the boundaries than make sales. The eyes of London Fashion Week are focused every time on what’s new, fresh and different. When we recall all those safety pins, tiger print fab- rics, the first sequined suits for men – that somehow all first emerged in London, and I think that tradition is still being nurtured,” emphasis- es Zvonko. And is New York really the world’s top centre of fashion? Per- haps not, at least in Zvonko’s opin- ion... “New York is America’s capital of sales. All buyers of collections and all representatives of department stores and retail chains are there. Howev- er, the best visual recognition is re- ceived in the capital of the American entertainment industry and glam- our, Los Angeles. That’s where most of the celebrities are based, and all the events that are covered by pop culture and magazines, the entire production of MTV, so there’s an ever-present need for crazy fash- ion pieces. That’s why my prefer- ence is L.A. GLAMOUR AND CRYSTALS Zvonko Marković’s new haute couture collection addresses love and is burst- ing with glamour and crystals. Work- ing on it, he attempted to break free of the everyday life and head straight into ancient myths and the story of the Ab- duction of Europa. That myth provided the foundations for him to use the lan- guage of fashion to create a fairy tale. “Europa, who was seduced by Zeus, was a Phoenician princess. He dedi- cated a constellation to his great love. It was no accident that this legend was chosen right now, at a time when Eu- rope is in turmoil. I tried to use the medi- um of my designs to illustrate gods and mortals, with the last model – featuring crystals and pearls fused around a girl – symbolically representing the abducted Europa draped in sea foam. Instead of a veil, she wears a crown of leaves and flowers with bull horns. This is a symbol- ic wedding dress with a touch of theat- rical drama,” explains the designer.
Biseri i kristali su prisutni na gotovo svim modelima, a pojedini komadi imaju i više od 4.500 kristala Pearls and crystals are included in almost all of his designs, which is why it should come as no surprise that certain pieces include more than 4,500 crystals
tures the dominant reign of gold and black. The very exaggerated nature of haute couture is often such that it cannot win you over if it isn’t in black,” says Marković, before add- ing that Milan, for instance, is in- tended for a wide range of clientele. “There you’ll see more reduced pieces, while the forms are softer. Just like the dominance of Armani and Max Mara, which have cleaned lines, a very clear relationship to- wards details and silhouettes that emphasise the female form. As for colour, they don’t avoid those in- tense tones and materials with rich prints,” explains this Serbian designer. Our story leads us on to London Fashion Week, perhaps most specif- ically. Marković’s first associations with London are rock'n'roll, punk, Vivienne Westwood, the Beatles etc. “London Fashion Week is some- where at the level of the avant-garde, and that’s what it’s valued for. It’s no wonder that this city succeeded in producing someone like Alexander McQueen and many other design- ers of a specific sensibility, who cre-
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