This eJournal explores the Barossa Valley in 2022 charting its history and future with tasting notes and reviews of over 300 wines including a focus on local Grenache and Mataro.
ANDREW CAILLARD MW & ANGUS HUGHSON
VINTAGE JOURNAL – REGIONAL FOCUS –
BAROSSA 2022
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CONTENTS
Introduction
1
Shiraz
1 2 3 3
Cabernet Sauvignon
Grenache
Riesling
Barossa Bloodlines
5 6
Barossa Old Vine Charter (2009) The Barossa Grounds Study
17 22 54 80 90 95
Shiraz and Blends
Grenache – Are We There Yet?
Mataro Revisited
Riesling
Cabernet Sauvignon and Blends
Rosé
101 102 105 108
New Barossa – Opportunity or Diversion
Other Whites Other Reds
INTRODUCTION Protection of identity lies at the heart of the terroir story. It began as a post-revolutionary model of agriculture which would assist wealth creation and support a growing population. Origin and the productivity of the soil were key elements. Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries these concepts were increasingly associated with fine wine production and assisted merchants to differentiate the produce of vignerons. The 1855 Bordeaux Classification epitomised this type of thinking and the development of hierarchies based on quality and sub-region. Delineations of vineyard areas, classifications, legislation, economics, community values and politics have all played their part in defining and defending the quality, character and price of wines. A regional narrative based on vineyard diversity, individuality of wines and cultural principles is the essence of fine wine. The Barossa Grounds Project cleverly avoids the politics of strict delineations yet promotes the broad agreement of winemakers that there are major sub-regional differences in all Barossa wines. Winemaking techniques and maturation handling also contribute greatly to style, quality and impact. Although Shiraz is the control variety in this study, most observers will agree that all varieties perform differently across sub-regions. The matrix of nature and nurture makes it impossible to fully unravel or explain the mystery of wine. Nonetheless the differences between vintages, vineyards, sub-regions and wine producers create a lovely contrast of styles in the Barossa. Shiraz Barossa Shiraz is the foundation of Australia’s ultra-fine wine market. Although it has a reputation for being full-bodied and chocolaty, it is far more nuanced than this, with sub-regional characters often showing through. The differences between Eden Valley (aromatic/elegant) and the western edge of the Barossa Valley (concentrated and vigorous) are the most contrasting. Although fruit quality and character are inevitably connected to vineyard site and vine age, the methods of winemaking and maturation in the end play a vital part in determining the outcome. For
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instance, the roasted-chestnut-barrel maturation characters in the wines of Soul Growers were consistent across all entries and added complexity and stature. The high alcohol and ripe expressions of Greenock Creek Wines highlighted a style consistent to its audience. The fragrant blackberry-pastille sage-like aromatics, al dente structure and integrated mocha oak of Henschke’s Eden Valley wines emphasise seasonal character of vineyards and house style. Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon was first planted in the Barossa Valley in the 1880s and possibly before; Penfolds Block 42 (1888) is the oldest-surviving vineyard. The variety is notoriously inconsistent, but in many years it can really show its class – 2018 may well be such a year. John Duval’s Integro Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz and Paul Mara Apotogi Cabernet Sauvignon are bloody good examples of high-fidelity cabernet sauvignon sourcing and wine making. The fruit definition, density and oak maturation are beautifully aligned.
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Grenache Barossa Grenache is becoming hugely popular, but styles vastly differ. The juicy and exuberant releases are delicious to drink young, but their ageing potential is limited. Cirillo’s 1850 Grenache, made from 1848-planted vines in Light Pass, is a reference style and is released with several years’ bottle age. It has a pinot-like viscosity, a lacy structure and the complexity of a classic. Yalumba Tri-Centenary Grenache is also gentle and silky-textured. The 2021 Hayes Family Estate Block 2 Grenache and 2021 Seppeltsfield Great Terraced Vineyard are both very good modern contemporary styles with a touch more colour, density and drive. The demand for these types of wines will continue to grow. GSM styles, renowned for their exuberance, juicy flavours and chocolaty complexity, are also becoming fashionable once again. There were some very good examples in this tasting, including First Drop Matador and Hayes Family Estate. Riesling The prolonged growing season leading up to the 2021 vintage lead to some outstanding reference-type rieslings. I loved their fruit purity, density, crispness and energy. I can imagine many of these wines ageing for the long term. The shift towards moderate alcohol levels has brought another regional expression, where fruit clarity and tension give a mouth-watering experience. Pewsey Vale Prima Riesling (9%alc) is an impressive example. The crunchy and beautifully balanced 2021 Elk Riesling highlights regional authenticity and generational change.
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BAROSSA BLOODLINES At London’s Great Exhibition in 1851, South Australian wheat was lauded as the best in the world. The Barossa’s expansive fields of wheat are captured in a lithograph by the artist George French Angas, the son of George Fife Angas who was the largest landholder in the region and the founder of the South Australian Company, by far the most influential private enterprise in the colony. ‘Lynedoch Valley, looking towards the Barossa Range’ was published in the 1846 South Australia Illustrated to encourage investment and immigration. Accompanying the lithograph was an explanation of the image: ‘Between twenty and thirty miles from Adelaide, in a N.N.E. direction is situated Lynedoch Valley, a rich agricultural tract of land extending towards the Barossa Range. A considerable portion of land under cultivation is the property of the South Australian Company, producing some of the finest wheat in the world...’ This fine agricultural country, now known as the Barossa Valley, was the traditional land of the Peramangk and Kaurna peoples, but like many parts of Australia pastoral activities saw the landscape change and its traditional owners disappear. Cereal cropping diminished throughout the following decades as soil fertility declined and English-style agriculture damaged the fragile eco-system. The arrival of Silesian refugees and the development of the hufendorf system of mixed farming offered a better way to manage the land. The Barossa wine industry eventually prospered, thanks to the grand visions of Benno Seppelt, Sir Samuel Davenport and Yalumba, with massive exports to the UK beginning in the 1870s. The plantings of the 19th and early 20th century is a tangible legacy of this period. The Barossa boasts the most extensive plantings of 100-year and older vines in the world. This heritage is threatened by climate change and poor biosecurity. Barossa winemakers and growers, however, are far from complacent about this challenge. The Barossa Old Vine Charter, which was first proposed by Yalumba in 2007, highlights the heritage and importance of vine age. It encapsulates the fragility, wealth and cause of the Barossa. When it was released in 2009, it foreshadowed the community’s commitment to sustainability and the long-term future of winemaking.
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BAROSSA OLD VINE CHARTER (2009) OLD VINES (35 YEARS OR MORE)
“These vines have grown beyond adolescence and are fully mature, with a root structure and trunk thickness that encourage diversity of flavour and character. They consistently produce high-quality fruit and wines of distinction and longevity.” SURVIVOR VINES (70 YEARS OR MORE) “These old vines have reached a significant milestone and serve as a living example of the commitment of grape growers and winemakers who value the quality and structure that the vines impart on their wines.” CENTENARIAN VINES (100 YEARS OR MORE) “These pre-phylloxera vines, planted generations ago, have impressively stood the test of time and matured with thick, gnarly trunks. They produce low yields of intensely flavoured grapes, which can translate into wines with strong character and concentration.” ANCESTOR VINES (125 YEARS OR MORE) “These vines contain genetic material that has helped populate the region with irreplaceable old stocks that underpin viticultural tradition. They are mainly dry-grown, low-yielding vines that produce grapes of great flavour and intensity. They are believed to be among the oldest-producing vines in the world.” Source: Wine Australia & Barossa Australia The Barossa Valley has unparalleled access to old vine material. We have compiled the following list of 19th- and earlier 20th-century plantings for publication in the forthcoming three-volume The Australian Ark which follows the story of Australian wine from 1788 to the present. We expect some vineyards may be missing and expect additions will be made to this list over time.
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19TH- AND EARLIER 20TH-CENTURY VINEYARD PLANTINGS STILL IN PRODUCTION Note: Vineyard plantings prior to 1850 are described as “circa”. Although anecdotal evidence argues these given dates are reasonably accurate, this type of referencing is probably more appropriate given the informed guesswork behind many other 19th-century vineyards. Plantings marked “circa” from 1850 onwards are generally agreed as the best reference by vineyard owners. These “circa” vineyards are very old and likely to have been planted within 10 years of their indicative dates. There are many vineyard blocks that were planted without records and many dates are estimates based on family stories handed down. c1843 – Langmeil Freedom Vines (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia (believed) c1847 – Schild Estate Moorooroo Vineyard (Shiraz), Jacob’s Creek, Barossa Valley, South Australia (believed) c1847 – Turkey Flat (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia (believed) c1848 – Cirillo Old Vine 1850 Light Pass Grenache Barossa Valley, South Australia (believed) c1848 – Cirillo Old Vine 1850 Light Pass Semillon (Madeira), Shiraz & Mataro, Barossa Valley, South Australia (believed) c1848 – Ahren’s Creek Ancestor Vines (Grenache – Maverick), Barossa Valley, South Australia (believed) 1850 – Hillside Vineyard, 1850 plantings (Shiraz – Torbreck), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1853 – Springton Vineyard (Grenache – Head Wines), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1853 – Hewitson Old Garden (Mourvedre/ Mataro), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1850s – Hewitson Old Fence Line Block (Frontignan/ Muscat à Petits Grains), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1854 – Clifton Estate Home Block (Shiraz – Yalumba), Barossa Valley, South Australia (believed) 1858 – Hillside Vineyard, 1858 plantings (Shiraz – Torbreck), Barossa Valley, South Australia
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Langmeil Freedom Vines
c1858 – Stonegarden Vineyard (Riesling, Frontignac, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mataro, Malbec), Eden Valley, South Australia 1860s – Henschke Hill of Grace Vineyard, Grandfathers Block (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1860s – Barossa Ridge Vineyard (Riesling – Maverick), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1865 – Asbroek Old Block Vineyard (St Hallett Old Block Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1870 – Chateau Tanunda, Lot 100 Vine Vale (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1870 – Hilder Vineyard (Mataro – ZWines), Barossa Valley, South Australia
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c1870 – Ahren’s Creek (Shiraz – Maverick), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1875 – Kalleske Johann Georg Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1875 – ZWines Hein Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1880 – Woodlands PF Zimmerman Vineyard (Grenache & Shiraz – Caiazza Family/ Purple Hands Planta Circa), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1880 – Frater Vineyard, Rowland Flat, Barossa Valley, South Australia 1880 – Kolovs Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1880 – Poonawatta 1880 Vineyard, Eden Valley, South Australia 1880 – Pfeiffer Light Pass Vineyard (Shiraz & Semillon – Peter Lehmann Wines), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1880s – Chapman Vineyard A Block (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1880s – Seppeltsfield Road (Shiraz & Mataro – Rolf Binder), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1881 – Schiller Family, Johanns Find Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1882 – Medland Vineyard (Wolf Blass – Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1885 – Bonview Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1885 – Schrapel 1885 Vineyard (Shiraz – Torbreck), Ebenezer, Barossa Valley, South Australia 1887 – Haese Vineyard, Barossa Valley, South Australia 1888 – Penfolds Block 42 (Cabernet Sauvignon), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1888 – Hoffman Dimchurch Vineyard (Dallwitz Block – Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1889 – Yalumba Tri-centenary Vineyard VG05 (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1890 – Colin Burge Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia
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1890 – Grant Burge Chaff Hill Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1890 – Lange Vineyard (Outlaw Wines Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1890 – Hampel Moppa Block Vineyard (Shiraz & Mataro), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1890 – Riedl Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1890 – Pine Park Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1890s – Gersch Old Vineyard Block (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1890s – Lindner Pure Eden Vineyard, Eden Valley, South Australia 1893 – Kaesler Old Bastard Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1893 – Philippou “Old” Vineyard (Shiraz, Grenache, Semillon), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1893 – Steinert Vineyard (Shiraz – Powell & Sons), Eden Valley, South Australia
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1894 – Elderton Command Vineyard (Shiraz & Cabernet Sauvignon), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1895 – Mibus Charlie’s Block, Kalimna (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1895 – Seppeltsfield GR5 Vineyard (Grenache) Barossa Valley, South Australia 1896 – Eperosa Magnolia Vine Vale Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1898 – Anderson Vineyard (Grenache & Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1898 – Lou Miranda Angel’s Vineyard (Shiraz & Mataro), Rowland Flat, Barossa Valley, South Australia 1899 – Kaesler Bogan Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1900 – Arila Gardens Sand Garden Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1900 – Harris Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley (Torbreck), South Australia 1900 – The Daylight Chambers Vineyard (Shiraz, Grenache, Mataro, Tinta Amarela, “Wild Bacher de hongrie” – Torbreck), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1900 – Philippou “Young” Vineyard (Shiraz, Grenache, Semillon), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1900 – Woodlands PF Zimmerman Vineyard (Cabernet Sauvignon – Caiazza Family/ Planta Circa), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1901 – Cirillo, 1901 plantings, Centenarian Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1901 – Burgemeister Linke Block (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1901 – Brennecke Vineyard (Grenache – Powell & Sons), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1901 – Hemmerling Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia
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1903 – Eperosa Krondorf (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1905 – ZWines Rohrlach Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1905 – Hobbs, 1905 plantings (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1905 – Kalleske, 1905 plantings (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1906 – Cirillo, 1906 plantings, Centenarian Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1907 – Lou Miranda Church Block (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1908 – Golden Gate Mine or Heine Vineyard (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1908 – Old Triangle Vineyard (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1908 – Spinifex Nuriap Road – Vinevale Vineyard, Barossa Valley, South Australia c1910 – Gersch Block 1 Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1910 – Nietschke Moppa Estate (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1910 – Henschke Hill of Grace Vineyard Post Office Block 1 (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1911 – Lou Miranda Church Block (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1911 – Kraehe Vineyard (Shiraz – Powell & Sons), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1912 – Henschke Mount Edelstone Vineyard (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1912 – Flaxman’s Road Vineyard (Shiraz – Chris Ringland), Eden Valley, South Australia 1912 – Dandelion & Soul Growers Kroehn Vineyard (Shiraz & Riesling), Eden Valley, South Australia 1912 – Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1912 – Light Pass Vineyard (Shiraz – Gibson), Barossa Valley, South Australia
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1912 – The Standish Family Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1912 – St Hallett Old Block Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1913 – Waechter Vineyard (Shiraz, Grenache & Mataro), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1914 – Calabria Family William Vineyard (Shiraz & Carignan – 9 rows), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1915 – Elderton Helbig Vineyard (Shiraz & Carignan), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1916 – Schild Estate Kleemann Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1918 – Koch Vineyard (Grenache – Hewitson), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1919 – Chateau Dorrien Old Block (Cabernet Sauvignon), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1919 – Noack Family 5-Acre Block (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1919 – St Hallett Fromm Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1919 – St Hallett Noack Springton Vineyard (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1919 – Steeple Vineyard Light Pass (Shiraz – Yalumba), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1920 – Grant Burge Filsell Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1920 – Bartholomaeus Vineyard (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1920 – Turkey Flat 1920 Block (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1921 – Koch Vineyard Block A & B (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1923 – Welland Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1925 – Gersch Vineyard, 1925 plantings (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia
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1925 – Seppeltsfield GR3 Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1926 – Jenke 1926 Single Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1926 – Percy Arthur Block (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1926 – St Hallett Koch Willandra Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1926 – Three Springs Vineyard (Grenache – Schild Estate), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1927 – Charles Melton Koch Vineyard (Grenache & Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1927 – Elmor Roehr Block (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1927 – Gersch Vineyard, 1927 plantings (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1928 – Pohlner Vineyard (Shiraz – Barr-Eden Estate), Eden Valley, South Australia c1928 – Gumpara Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1929 – Flaxman Wine’s Vineyard (Riesling, Semillon, Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1930 – Kaesler Shed Matthews and The Fave Blocks (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1930 – Riebke Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1935 – Kalleske Old Vine (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1935 – Resurrection Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1935 – Rosenvale Rosenzweig Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1936 – Willows Vineyard (Semillon), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1940 – Arila Gardens Quartz Garden (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia c1940 – Dahlitz Vineyard (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1940 – Rosenvale Rosenzweig Vineyard (Semillon & Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1941 – Schwartz Thiele Road (Grenache), Barossa Valley, South Australia
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1941 – Mattschoss Vineyard (Shiraz), Eden Valley, South Australia 1948 – Hayes Family Mattiske Vineyard (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1948 – Penfolds Kalimna Block 3C (Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia 1948 – Schrapel Family Vineyard (Bethany Shiraz), Barossa Valley, South Australia The Barossa is nowadays a mainstay of the Australian ultra-fine market and home to large, medium and small wine producers. Its old vine legacy is a key pillar of the region’s identity, but this is underpinned by the variations of landscape, geology and micro-climates. The diversity of styles is remarkable. Of particular interest is the growing demand for the brilliantly versatile mataro and creamy- textured semillons. The Barossa wine community has long recognised sub-regional differences through anecdotal evidence. The patterns of the growing season vary across the region and this results in fairly obvious variances in wine style, particularly in local shiraz. The higher-elevated Eden Valley, with its cooler growing season, is well known for its expressive, minerally rieslings and superbly aromatic and supple shirazes. The Barossa Valley itself is renowned for its chocolaty shirazes and voluminous grenaches. The differences between the elevated vineyards of the Eden Valley and the Barossa floor are easily identifiable. Eden Valley Shiraz is often accompanied by sage-like top notes, blackberry-pastille flavours and loose-knit tannins, whereas Barossa Valley Shiraz is typified by dark berry, dark chocolate aromas and chocolaty textures. In our tastings, over 150 wines were submitted as examples of sub- regional styles. The far-reaching Barossa Grounds Study has already attempted to broadly define sub-regional differences without drawing precise boundaries. There are always overlapping characteristics caused by the character, the length of the growing season and, of course, the human factor. Our findings in the tasting suggested that winemaking approach was at least as important as terroir in differentiating between
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different sub-regions. Nonetheless, there were a few trends worth noting. In the case of shiraz, the north and western ridges of the Barossa were bolder and richer styles that attracted greater use of new oak and extractive winemaking techniques. The Southern Grounds shiraz was generally at the other end of the spectrum, with red and black fruits, greater use of seasoned oak and more gentle extraction. The Central Valley lay somewhere in between. Sub-regional variation is also affected by climate change and other environmental factors, which no doubt will profoundly shift the conversation surrounding terroir. It will not only be about location but also how the land is managed and connected with people. Sustainability, diversity and inclusiveness is an exciting opportunity as much as it is a challenge. The Barossa is at the forefront of building a sustainable future. This reflects a strong community spirit and an open willingness to adapt, innovate and collaborate to protect and promote the region’s fine wine identity.
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THE BAROSSA GROUNDS STUDY
The Barossa Grounds Study was established in 2008 to evaluate the variations of shiraz wine style across the Barossa Zone. This collaborative undertaking, including the participation of South Australia’s leading viticultural academics, wine critics and many of the Barossa’s most distinguished winemakers, involved the collection of climatic data, analysis of soil profiles across the Barossa and Eden Valleys, controlled winemaking studies and annual tasting reviews. “GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS IDENTIFY WINES AS ORIGINATING IN A REGION OR LOCALITY.” The Australian Geographical Indications confirms the official boundaries of the Barossa Zone and its sub-regions: the Barossa Valley, the Eden Valley and the High Eden. The Barossa Grounds Project proposes a further three localities in the Barossa Valley sub-region. Each of these grounds, located in varying landscapes, micro-climates and soil-types, bring different and compelling expressions of shiraz.
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REGION
BAROSSA ZONE
Barossa Valley (112–217m) Warm and dry during the growing season Soils range from deep sandy loams to clay loams and red brown earths Eden Valley (217–630m) Warm to cool conditions with higher average rainfall. Daytime temperatures are 2‑3°C cooler (night time temperatures 5‑7°C cooler) than the Barossa Valley. Mainly shallow rocky soils.
Shiraz Profile y deep crimson y intense blackberry, dark chocolate aromas y full bodied velvety firm tannins Shiraz Profile y medium to deep colour y blackberry-pastille, sage aromatics y fine loose-knit tannins
Shiraz Profile y deep crimson y intense dark cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate aromas y full-bodied and inky deep y chocolaty/ firm tannins
Northern and Western Ridges (260–310m)
Warm days. Cooling breezes off the Eden Valley ridge at night. East-facing slopes on the Western Ridge provide relief from the hot afternoon sun. Predominately red-yellow brown loams over red clay. Shattered ironstones are found in the shallow soils of the northern western ridge. A pocket of yellow and white sands is found in the Kalimna area.
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REGION
BAROSSA ZONE
High Eden (also a GI) (450–630m)
Shiraz Profile y medium deep colour y fragrant red fruits, pepper, sage y fine savoury tannins
Cool conditions with high average rainfall but low rainfall during growing season. Significant exposure to wind. Shallow, skeletal, rocky soils. Central Valley (180–217m) Warm with cool afternoons. Evening gully breezes moderate temperatures. Sandy brown loams. Southern Grounds (180–217m) Warm with relatively higher rainfall. Sandy loams to clay loams.
Shiraz Profile y deep crimson y red cherry, raspberry, blackberry, plum, cacao aromas y fine supple/ slinky tannins Shiraz Profile y medium deep crimson y red, blue and black fruits with chocolate notes y fine satin tannins
Region – An official boundary created by the Australian geographical indications to indicate a unique and homogenous wine growing region. Sub-region – an official boundary created by the Australian geographical indications and based on evidence of sub-regional differences, including climate, soils and overall wine style. ‘Grounds’ – an unofficial but locally recognised ‘locality’ observed through the character of micro-climate, soil composition, geology, individual vineyard site and the grower’s touch (how the grower tends the vines).
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Knowledge of sub-regional differences will continue to develop over forthcoming decades, but the principles are sound. Although climate change promises to complicate debate about the nature of terroir, character and uniqueness of place are important features of the fine wine narrative. For instance, the varied personality of Barossa shiraz is linked to the vineyard site, vine age, clone, viticultural practices, soil types, harvesting time and individual winemaking craft and philosophy. Vintage conditions bring further variation. Cooler sites may perform best in warmer seasons whereas warmer sites perform best in cooler seasons. SUSTAINABILITY Sustainability promises to be the most exciting and challenging topic within Australia’s fine wine agenda for years to come. The movement towards a sustainable future has been a rolling stone for some years, but the years of pandemic, new artificial trade barriers, threat of climate change, regional insecurity and fears for biosecurity have all sharpened focus and activated the Australian wine community. The Barossa region is at the vanguard of change and mitigation. During the 2000s, widespread organic and biodynamic viticultural practices highlighted the region’s concerns about changing weather patterns and sustainability. While vignerons and growers of all kinds are working towards the goals of a green wine future, large producers, including Treasury Wine Estates and Pernod Ricard, are shaping the agenda, with almost every facet of viticulture, winemaking, packaging and distribution being reimagined from a sustainability perspective. Sustainability activism has ignited a collaborative wine community approach ranging from simple household routines to vineyard management, regenerative agriculture, winery design, technology, artificial Intelligence, energy use and “circular-making”. Renewables, reusables and restoration are all part of this mindset. This includes the acknowledgement and inclusion of First Nations peoples and their descendants. Ultimately, sustainability relates to natural capital, the 19th century ‘economic power of land’ concept and a 21st century agrarian
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outlook. The health of the soil is the fundamental factor, because yields, quality and character of the vintage underpin regional identity. In 1865 Dr Jules Guyot wrote in his Culture of the Vine and Winemaking that ‘when a soil is naturally fertile and produces remunerative crops, it attracts, fixes and sustains, by itself, a numerous population.’ The development of fertilisers, chemicals and tractorisation during the 20th century resulted in the economical production of crops but often degraded the natural fertility of soils. Although intentions were good, the mindset was generally connected to a balance sheet. But, throughout the 2000s, a strong environmental awareness has developed. The threat of urbanisation, drought and biosecurity kickstarted a new outlook that is now influencing the way consumers perceive identity, terroir and origin. Present-day thinking builds on the efforts of previous generations and the handed-down knowledge and experience of living in the Barossa landscape. The concept of terroir has never been more relevant than today. Although extreme weather and other threats promise to create challenges in the future, the way vignerons care for their vineyards and make their wine is now becoming the most important factor when consumers choose their wines.
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Shiraz and Blends
Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2015
G 100
Medium-deep crimson. Evocative, complex and beautiful sage herb garden, red cherry, mulberry aromas with espresso mocha, sesame and wild floral notes. Inky textured and pure with fresh red cherry, mulberry, blackberry fruits, fine supple silky sweet tannins, superb mid-palate viscosity and underlying roasted chestnut, mocha, vanilla oak notes. Finishes minerally long with persistent sweet fruits and a slight kick of aniseed. Gorgeous wine with a very strong sense of place. 2042–2042+ Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2016 G 99 Medium-deep crimson. Intense and fragrant blackberry pastille, dark plum, herb garden, sage aromas, underlying vanilla, roasted chestnut notes and hints of star anise. Complex and pure-fruited with blackberry, dark plum, mulberry flavours, integrated vanilla, roasted chestnut (oak) notes, some chinotto nuances and fine supple and vigorous velvetine/ al dente tannins, lovely buoyancy/mid-palate viscosity and fresh long mineral acidity. Finishes claret-firm with plentiful sweet and savoury notes. A seductive yet elegant wine with superb vinosity, complexity and resonance. Unmistakably Hill of Grace. A beautiful “sotto-voce” vintage. 2024–2040+
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Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2017
G 98
Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackberry, cassis, roasted coffee, sage aromas with vanilla, roasted chestnut, panforte star anise. Amazingly complex wine with pure blackberry, blackcurrant, espresso, hint of peppery flavours, fine loose-knit chalky al dente tannins and mocha, vanilla crème brûlée oak. Finishes grainy al dente firm with lovely pastille fruits. 18 months maturation in 25% new & 75% seasoned (89% French, 11% American) oak hogsheads. 2025–2042 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2016 G 98 Deep crimson. Classical blackberry, dark chocolate aromas with roasted hazelnut/ chestnut, sage, almost light minty notes. Well concentrated and generous with pure blackberry, mulberry, praline flavours, roasted chestnut, vanilla oak notes, inky-deep richness and persistent chocolaty, touch al dente tannins. Finishes chocolaty firm with chinotto bittersweet notes. A voluminous wine superb density and vigour and showing all the hallmarks of a great Eden Valley vineyard and intuitive winemaking. More powerful and concentrated than Hill of Grace, but beautifully balanced. The perfect alter ego. 2025–2045
Penfolds Bin 798 RWT Shiraz 2019
G 98
Deep crimson. Lovely intense dark cherry, blackberry, mulberry, praline aromas with ginger notes. Classical in structure yet Penfoldsian in character with dense dark cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate flavours, plentiful fine chalky/ graphite tannins, superbly integrated roasted chestnut, vanilla oak and underlying cedar complexity. Finishes al dente firm with beautiful mineral length and bittersweet notes. Superb fruit density and torque.
Seal; Cork 2025–2045 Eperosa Magnolia 1896 Shiraz 2020
G 97
Deep crimson. Pure blackberry pastille, cassis aromas with dark chocolate/ graphite notes. Lovely buoyant blackberry, blackcurrant, mulberry fruits with brambly nuance, fine al dente/ grippy/ muscular tannins and integrated praline mocha notes. Finishes chocolaty/ leafy with persistent dark fruits. Evocative and refined yet powerful with the density and torque for longevity. 2025–2035
Barossa 2022
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Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2017
G 97
Medium-deep crimson. Fresh blackcurrant pastille, chinotto, sage, herb garden aromas with vanilla cacao notes. Richly concentrated blackcurrant, blackberry fruits, lovely fine chalky al dente tannins, beautifully integrated mocha notes and fresh linear crisp acidity. Finishes claret-firm with pure cassis fruits. Lovely density and torque. 18 months maturation in 26% new & 74% seasoned (86% French, 14% American) oak hogsheads. 2024–2032 Henschke Hill of Roses Shiraz 2016 G 97 Deep crimson. Fresh blackberry, mulberry, espresso aromas with roasted chestnut, sage notes. Generous and inky with deep set blackberry, mulberry, roasted coffee flavours, underlying roasted chestnut, vanilla oak notes, lovely mid-palate richness persistent fine loose-knit chalky – al dente tannins and integrated mineral acidity. Finishes slinky firm with plentiful sweet fruit notes. Buoyant, generous and impactful with superb density, vim and vigour. A very strong sub-regional expression that unleashes the atmospheric spirit of the Gnadenberg enclave of the Eden Valley. From 27-year-old “Post Office Block” vines, a subset of the Hill of Grace Vineyard. 2025–2045 Penfolds Bin 150 Shiraz 2019 G 97 Deep crimson. Lifted blackberry, chinotto, dark chocolate roasted chestnut, marzipan aromas. Beautifully balanced vigorous wine with inky blackberry, elderberry, chinotto, praline flavours, fine loose-knit chalky grainy tannins and roasted chestnut, crème brûlée, espresso notes. Finishes claret-firm with persistent inky dark fruits. Superb fruit definition, oak complexity and vigour. Seal; cork 2024–2038 Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2016 G 97 Deep crimson. Intense dark plum, blackberry, praline aromas with roasted hazelnut, roasted chestnut notes. Richly concentrated and inky deep with dark berry, dark chocolate, panforte flavours, plentiful fine- grained tannins and beautifully integrated mocha, roasted chestnut oak notes. Finishes chocolaty/ firm with cedar, aniseed notes. An exceptional Barossa vintage. Matured in French oak hogsheads for 18 months. Drinking well now, but best to keep for a while. 2025–2042+
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T he V intage J ournal – Regional Focus
St Hallett Old Block Shiraz 2017
G 97
Medium-deep crimson. Attractive espresso, dark cherry, blackberry aromas with praline/ mocha/ roasted chestnut notes. Smooth, supple and refined with dark cherry, blackberry, dried plum, red currant fruits, persistent fine graphite-like tannins, inky richness and underlying roasted coffee, mocha, chestnut, hint tobacco leaf notes. Finishes chocolaty/ chewy firm with plenty of mineral length. Multi-layered but medium-powered wine with lovely fruit complexity and integration. A classic Barossa Shiraz showing the enduring hallmarks of extended oak maturation. Will keep for years. Now–2038+ Two Hands Coach House Block Shiraz 2020 G 97 Deep crimson. Moody dark plum, blackberry aromas with earthy, rusty, graphite, iron stone notes. Very expressive, buoyant and sturdy with abundant dark berry, praline flavours, fine ferruginous tannins, superb mid-palate viscosity, some bittersweet elements and roasted walnut complexity. Finishes claret-firm with inky, mineral notes. Shows modulated power and a distinctive voice of place. Superb. Now–2045 Soul Growers Single Vineyard Hoffmann Shiraz 2019 G 97 Deep crimson and an oustanding Barossan with waves of well evolved dark plum, blackberry fruits and roasted walnut/chestnut, espresso complexity. Classical oak matured wine with lovely dark plum, blackberry fruits, chocolaty textures, mocha roasted chestnut notes before finishing chocolaty and long. A lovely wine. Now–2035 Arila Quartz & Sand Gardens Shiraz 2019 G 96 Deep crimson. Lovely concentrated dark cherry, blackberry, mint- chocolate aromas with herb garden, liquorice notes. Ample-bodied wine with plush dark berry fruits, panforte flavours, plentiful velveteen tannins and mocha/ spicy complexity. Finishes chocolaty firm with Bendicks bittermint-like notes. An impressive Moppa District Shiraz with the volume and richness to carry those light minty notes. 2024–2032
Barossa 2022
25
Eperosa Magnolia 1965 Shiraz 2020
G 96
Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, blackberry, raspberry aromas and flavours with dark chocolate, roasted walnut, stone fruit, peppercorn notes. Generous and vigorous with superb mid-palate volume, inky density, persistent chalky/ al dente textures and underlying savoury notes. Finishes claret-firm with leafy/ chinotto notes. Plenty of fruit
complexity torque in this wine. 2024–2032 Gibson Australian Old Vine Collection Shiraz 2018
G 96
Deep crimson. Classic Barossa Shiraz with lovely intense blackberry, plum, dark chocolate, praline aromas with sage/aniseed notes. Richly flavoured, minerally and seductive palate with ample choco-berry fruits, plentiful fine-grained tannins and perfectly integrated savoury/ roasted walnut notes. Finishes chalky firm with a persistent inky plume. Very successful wine. Now–2035+ Grant Burge Balthasar Shiraz 2019 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Intense elderberry, blackberry, black cherry aromas with roasted walnut/ praline notes. Richly flavoured, buoyant and seductive with pure ripe blackberry, elderberry fruits, brambly but supple textures and underlying savoury oak notes. Finishes chocolaty firm with plentiful sweet fruits and lengthy tannin plume. Now–2028 Henschke Tappa Pass Shiraz 2018 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Lifted dark cherry, dark plum, blackberry aromas with praline/ dark chocolate notes. Generous and seductive dark plum, blackberry boysenberry fruits, fine loose-knit chocolaty textures, integrated vanilla, spicy oak notes, attractive mid-palate viscosity and long fresh integrated acidity. Finishes chocolaty firm with plentiful dark fruits and savoury notes. A classic Barossa Shiraz with superb density, richness and vigour. Still elemental, needing a few years to achieve completeness. 2023–2038+
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T he V intage J ournal – Regional Focus
Henschke Hill of Roses Shiraz 2017
G 96
Medium-deep crimson. Beautiful blackberry, black cherry, dried roses(!), herb garden graphite, sage, aniseed with chocolate. Lovely sweet juicy blackberry, black cherry, cassis fruits, lovely brambly, al dente textures, attractive viscosity, mocha, cacao vanilla oak notes and linear fresh crisp acidity. Finishes minerally, long and firm with plentiful sweet fruits. Lovely structural strength and vigour, and will age beautifully. From the 1989-planted Post Office Block (Hill of Grace Vineyard). 18 months maturation in 25% new & 75% seasoned (89% French, 11% American) oak Deep crimson. Intense blackberry, mulberry aromas with toasty, roasted walnut, mocha oak notes and touches of herb garden. Generous and inky with persistent blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine loose-knit chalky tannins, attractive mid-palate richness and underlying vanilla, mocha oak complexity. Finishes vigorously firm and bittersweet with a beautiful tannin plume. Refined yet powerful with lovely fruit definition, oak complexity and vinosity. 100% Old Vine Shiraz – approaching 70 years. Now –2035 Henschke Tappa Pass Shiraz 2019 G 96 hogsheads. 2025–2038 Henschke Tappa Pass Shiraz 2017 G 96 Deep crimson. Beautifully focused blackberry, dark chocolate, mocha aromas with aniseed notes. Almost seamless on the palate with saturated sweet blackberry, blackcurrant, dark chocolate, mocha, hint roasted chestnut flavours, plentiful fine supple chocolaty textures and integrated fresh acidity. Wonderful buoyancy and structure. Now–2035+ Deep colour. Intense raspberry confit, Turkish delight, blackberry aromas with subtle mocha, sesame notes. Very expressive palate with pure smooth blackberry, raspberry fruits, fine velvety tannins and superbly integrated marzipan, mocha oak. Finishes chocolaty and sweet fruited with a spicy aniseed kick. A classical Barossa vintage with lovely fruit definition, volume and persistency. 100% new French oak puncheons. Now–2032 Hobbs 1905 Shiraz 2019 G 96
Barossa 2022
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Love over Gold Shiraz 2016
G 96
Deep crimson. Intense dark berry, dark chocolate, date aromas with underlying roasted walnut notes. Rich and voluminous with generous ripe dark berry, hint of raisined fruits, plentiful fine chocolaty textures and integrated fresh acidity. Finishes gravelly firm with lovely persistent sweet fruits. A classic Barossa Shiraz with superb ripe fruit definition, concentration and vigour. From the 1928-planted Pohlner’s Vineyard Block. Now–2035 Maverick Ahren’s Creek Ancestor Vine Shiraz 2019 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Dark plum, blackberry liquorice aromas with panforte, cola notes. Well concentrated palate with fresh dark plum, blackberry, mulberry fruits, brambly/ chalky textures and mocha vanilla oak complexity. Finishes grainy firm with chinotto/ minerally notes. An elegantly proportioned Barossa Shiraz with superb volume and Deep crimson. Lovely blackberry, black cherry, dark chocolate aromas with marzipan notes. Beautifully concentrated wine with blackberry pastille, black cherry fruits, inky/ graphite notes, fine slinky/ chocolaty tannins and plentiful marzipan. Vanilla notes. Finishes chocolaty firm and minerally with kirsch notes. 100% new French oak. Now–2035 Two Hands Yacca Block Shiraz 2020 G 96 persistency. Now–2032 St Hugo Koch Vineyard Shiraz 2016 G 96 Deep crimson. Intense dark chocolate, black cherry, hint negroni aromas with herb garden notes. A very animated style with ample black cherry, dark plum, dark chocolate fruits, fine vigorous bittersweet/ al dente tannins, lovely mid-palate generosity, integrated mocha notes and chocolaty/ mineral length. Lovely fruit clarity and tension. Now–2035 Two Hands Secret Block Shiraz 2020 G 96 Deep crimson. Fresh dark cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate aromas with roasted chestnut, hint wax polish notes. Generously concentrated with inky dark cherry, blackberry fruits, persistent fine loose-knit chocolaty tannins and underlying roasted chestnut vanilla notes. Finishes bittersweet and minerally. Still elemental but should develop more richness and density with age. Very good potential. Now–2040
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T he V intage J ournal – Regional Focus
Two Hands Ares Shiraz 2019
G 96
Deep colour. Intense black cherry, dark plum, wax polish aromas with mocha, herb garden, hint liquorice aromas. Smooth and velvety textured with ample choco-berry, chinotto flavours, superb ripe tannins and mocha, roasted chestnut oak notes. Builds up gravelly firm with a long chocolaty plume. Very expressive heartland Barossa Shiraz with lovely balance, power and density. 2026–2040 Hewitson Monopole Shiraz 2018 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Classical blackberry, raspberry, mocha with spicy, dried roses notes. Well concentrated blackberry, raspberry, dried roses flavours, fine slinky graphite – hint al dente tannins and mocha vanilla, crème brûlée, oak notes. Finishes chalky and minerally. Now–2030 Hewitson Monopole Shiraz 2020 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant raspberry pastille, black cherry, peppercorn aromas with vanilla notes. Concentrated raspberry, blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine grainy, hint sappy tannins and plentiful vanilla, toasty notes. Finishes chalky/ chewy al dente, bittersweet notes. Very attractive wine with suppleness and torque. Now–2034 Langmeil Winery The Freedom 1843 Shiraz 2019 G 96 A wine that has everything on display: power, complexity and aging potential. Medium-deep crimson in colour, it displays impressive blackberry, chinotto, aniseed aromas with mocha oak in support. Richly flavoured wine with plentiful blackberry, dark cherry, praline favours, plentiful fine chalky al dente tannins and prominent roasted chestnut vanilla new oak notes. Finishes chocolaty firm with bitter chinotto/ inky notes and has everything in balance for a long future ahead. 2024–2035 Peter Lehmann Wines VSV – Valley View Road Shiraz 2018 G 96 Deep crimson and quite a traditional Barossa style with classical blackberry, mulberry aromas with mocha oak well matched. Lovely pure dark berry fruits, fine slinky tannins and underlying mocha dark chocolate flavours lifted by a chalky texture and inky plume with exceptional balance and weight to finish. Now–2030
Barossa 2022
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The Willows Vineyard Bonesetter Shiraz 2018
G 96
Deep crimson and quite a ripe and decadent wine with powerful dark cherry, dark chocolate aromas with lovely roasted chestnut, vanilla marzipan oak complexity. Ample and luxuriant dark berry fruits are supported by smooth velvety textures and integrated roasted chestnut oak before finishing chocolaty and long. Now–2032 Arila Gardens of Moppa Shiraz 2020 G 95 Deep crimson. Fresh dark cherry, mulberry, blackberry aromas with mocha/ espresso notes. Voluminous and inky with smooth dark cherry, mulberry, blackberry fruits, fine chocolaty textures, lovely underlying mocha/ roasted coffee notes and long fresh integrated acidity. Finishes grippy firm, long and fruity. Now–2030 Eperosa LRC Greenock Shiraz 2020 G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Abundant blackberry, graphite, stone fruit aromas with liquorice, herb notes. Richly flavoured, buoyant and minerally with intense dark berry fruits, underlying apricot notes, fine chalky/ chocolaty textures and fresh long acidity. Finishes bittersweet with chinotto notes. 2% riesling does a similar job to viognier by fixing the colour and promoting vigour. A beautifully polished wine with lovely density, precision and vinosity. Vines planted in 1967. Now–2028 Gibson Australian Old Vine Collection Shiraz 2013 G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Polished wine with glossy dark berry fruit aromas with praline, toffee, crème brûlée notes. Fresh youthful blackberry, cassis flavours, fine loose-knit chalky tannins and integrated vanilla, roasted chestnut notes. A plume of graphite textures at the finish. Very complete and sinuous wine. Now–2030 Gibson Reserve Shiraz 2006 G 95 Deep crimson. Evolved graphite, black cherry, dark chocolate aromas with roasted chestnut, liquorice notes. Smooth and velvety textured with fresh black cherry, plum, roasted chestnut, tobacco leaf flavours and persistent fine chocolaty tannins. Finishes bittersweet, slightly crisp and firm with an inky plume. Now–2028
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T he V intage J ournal – Regional Focus
Greenock Creek Jaensch Shiraz 2019
G 95
Deep crimson. Very attractive black cherry, dark plum, mocha, dark chocolate aromas with ginger spice notes. Smooth black cherry, dark musky plum fruits, persistent velvety tannins and beautifully integrated savoury/ mocha notes. Lovely chocolaty finish. Voluminous and delicious. Brilliant early to medium term drinking style. Now–2026 Greenock Creek Fifteen Claims Shiraz 2020 G 95 Deep crimson. Dark cherry, mulberry, dark plum aromas with plentiful malt, mocha notes. Richly concentrated dark cherry, dark plum, dark chocolate flavours, fine loose-knit graphite/ al dente tannins and underlying English toffee/ malt. Finishes claret-firm with inky chinotto, hint dried coconut notes. Plenty of density, complexity and torque. Now–2032 Henschke Keyneton Euphonium Shiraz 2016 G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh blackberry, dark plum, raspberry, dark chocolate, espresso aromas with savoury roasted walnut/cedar notes. Concentrated blackberry, dark plum, mulberry fruits, attractive chinotto, negroni notes, sinuous velvety fine tannins and integrated roasted walnut oak. Finishes chocolaty firm with plentiful ripe dark fruits and savoury notes. Richly flavoured wine with lovely volume, texture, freshness and balance. Drink early or keep for a while. Now–2035 Henschke Wheelwright Shiraz 2017 G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Classical blackberry pastille, black cherry, dark chocolate, sage, Turkish delight aromas. Lovely inky textured wine with pure blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate, mocha flavours, underlying panforte notes, fine loose-knit chalky/ brambly textures and fresh crisp acidity. Finishes chocolaty firm with attractive bittersweet notes and mineral length. 18 months maturation in 16% new & 84% seasoned (87% French, 13% American) oak hogsheads. 2024–2032 Hobbs Gregor Shiraz 2019 G 95 Deep colour. Intense panforte, espresso, prune, fig aromas with spicy, shellac notes. Immensely concentrated wine with abundant panforte, espresso coffee, dried fruit flavours, superb chocolaty textures and underlying marzipan, spicy oak notes. Finishes cedary firm with plentiful liquorice/ aniseed notes. An Appassimento/ Amarone style (made from semi-dried grapes) amplifying fruit impact and density. Now–2030
Barossa 2022
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