2014 Spring

Engineering marvels bridge the gaps on the Natchez Trace Parkway and, left, the Overseas Highway.

The Natchez Trace Parkway could right- fully lay claim to the title of most historic of the 31 All-American Roads. Extending 444 miles from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee, the two-lane park- way dates back some 8,000 to 10,000 years when it served as a migratory path for American bison and other wildlife. Native Americans, following “traces” of bison and other game, further devel- oped the route as a walking trail, conve- nient for foot-borne commerce between major villages located in the middle Mississippi region and central Tennessee. Following treaties with the Chickasaw and Choctaw Indians in 1801, and well before steamships, farmers and boatmen from the Ohio Valley used the trace to return north after delivering goods to Southern ports via the Mississippi River. With the advent of the automobile, it seemed only natural that the old path- way would evolve into a motorway, but it wasn’t until President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed legislation to create the parkway in 1938 that the Civilian

Conservation Corps finally built it. Although two gaps in Mississippi weren’t completed until 2005, the trace was des- ignated an All-American Road in 1996. No commercial traffic or enterprise is permitted on the parkway, nor are RVs exceeding 55 feet in length or 14 feet, 6 inches in height. This is a beautiful route and far less demanding than its curvy Blue Ridge cousin. You do, however, have to be on the lookout for wildlife and cyclists. The trace makes for a comfy two-day drive, with your progress—and key attrac- tions—marked by simple brown road- side mileposts. Highlights early on the route include Emerald Mound (mile 10), second larg- est ceremonial mound in the U.S. The 8-acre hill-like mound was built between 1300 and 1600 by the Mississippian culture, ancestors of the Natchez tribe. Mount Locust Inn (mile 15.5) is a restored example of an 18th century “stand” or inn, one of many along the trace that provided accommodations and

provisions for weary travelers. Don’t miss Cypress Swamp (mile 122), a surrealistic water tupelo and bald cypress swamp where a long boardwalk puts you just inches above the water as you stroll among towering trees, always on the lookout for those slinky alligators. Scenery along the parkway changes rather dramatically as the route crosses northeastern Alabama and begins ascend- ing the rocky hills of southern Tennessee. A bridge spans the broad Tennessee River at mile 327, where a ferry operated in the early 1800s. The present day site, known as Colbert’s Landing, is an ideal spot for a rest or picnic lunch. Approaching Nashville and the north- ern terminus of the parkway, you’ll pass over Natchez Trace Parkway Arches. The 1,572-foot-long white concrete bridge soars 155 feet above a wooded valley. You’ll want to pause at the viewing area just north of the bridge to reflect on this marvelous engineering accomplishment. It is a fitting salute to one of America’s most historic and remarkable roadways.

spring 2014 COAST TO COAST 15

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