WHERE IN THE WORLD? Lake Kariba is approximately 1 300km upstream of the Indian Ocean, on the Zambezi River, which forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Along the southern shore, Matusadona National Park, in the heart of the Zambezi Valley, stretches from the banks of Lake Kariba up the rugged Zambezi Escarpment. Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, set on a range of remote hills overlooking Lake Kariba, is a haven of serenity and luxury and a great base for exploring the area.
Kudu. Credit: Bad Rabbit Studio
There are several towns to start your Kariba visit. On the Zimbabwean side, the largest tourism centre is Kariba Town. At the southern end, Binga and Mlibizi offer some charter and accommodation options, and Mlibizi is a terminus for Lake Kariba ferry services. If flying, fly into Harare and transfer to Kariba Town by road (six hours) or by air (one hour). There are no scheduled flights to Matusadona, but you can arrange chartered planes to airstrips at Bumi Hills or Kushinga. Alternatively, travel by boat from Kariba town 18km from the park. For self-drivers, there is a tarred road between Harare and Kariba town. Allow at least 6 hours for this 355km drive. Get local advice on road conditions and safety. Kariba and Matusadona are in a malaria zone, so take precautions. Use a mosquito repellent, cover your skin at sunset and consult your doctor for antimalarial medication.
Zimbabwe
Matusadona, Tashinga Campsite Credit: African Parks
profit African Parks to co-manage the park and signed a 20-year mandate to revitalise the park for both wildlife and local communities. While there have been many challenges along the way, with good governance, effective law enforcement, community engagement and wildlife reintroductions, African Parks has begun to revive Matusadona and secure its future. For all its challenges, the park is fast becoming a haven for wildlife, a source of hope for local people and a popular tourism destination once more. Whilst not inside the park, the Bumi Hills’ proximity to Matusadona means wildlife can move freely between the national park and the lodge’s private concession, creating terrific game- viewing opportunities. The impalas allowed us to pass by closely, with only the occasional flick of an ear or tail. Birds were abundant too - a crowd of marabou storks hunting for frogs in the long grass, Egyptian geese called out as they flew overhead, and hornbills swooped and soared across the sky. Our drive concluded on the lake’s edge, where we climbed out of the vehicle and sat quietly in the grass. A herd of impala and zebra grazed nearby, a kudu gazed out from under nearby trees, and a family of elephants wandered down to the water. As the sun sank towards the horizon, one elephant raised its trunk, slowly sniffing the air, silhouetted against the sky that changed from orange to red and finally purple while we watched.
More than 40 fish species call Lake Kariba home, from kapenta to bream and, the tiger. Tiger fish are indigenous and renowned for their speed, agility, and ferocity. In 1967, shoals of kapenta (small sardine-like fish) were airlifted to the lake from Zambia’s Lake Tanganyika and today form the basis of the fishing industry. At night, we could see the twinkling lights of the kapenta fishing rigs, in their hundreds, stretching out across the water, almost mirroring the stars above. By day, when not out on game drives, we went fishing for tiger, and the occasional barbel (catfish). It is no easy feat to hook and land a tiger, making them one of the most sought- after game fish on the continent. With all that adrenalin it takes to catch one, it is no wonder fishing for them is one of the most popular Kariba activities. Lake Kariba is stunning, and Matusadona National Park is a remarkable African wilderness. Under the management of African Parks, there is a great deal of hope for the future of this magnificent piece of Africa.
1963, the area was proclaimed a game reserve. Within the park’s 1 470km² of undulating hills, thickly wooded areas, prolific perennial springs and tall riverine grasses, buffalo, waterbuck, zebra, and an array of antelope thrive. So too do the predators. The lake teems with hippos and Nile crocodiles, and the shoreline provides great elephant herd sightings.
The park was once home to the highest density of lions in Africa and a stronghold for elephants and black rhino.
The best wildlife viewing in Matusadona National Park is from May to October during the dry season.
A popular way to explore Kariba is by houseboat. Numerous operators offer houseboats, from basic self-catering options to five-star full-board charters.
Arrange a permit and familiarise yourself with local fishing regulations if you want to fish. Fly-fishing from the shore is popular but watch out for crocodiles.
The park was once home to the highest density of lions in Africa and a stronghold for elephants and black rhino, but human pressure and resource over- utilisation of resources affected the park, leaving Matusadona in a sorry state. In 2019, the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority invited non-
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