MANTIJE, RAVANIJE I DRUGE ĐAKONIJE MANTIJA, RAVANIJA AND OTHER DELICACIES Tekst / Words: Branka Gajić Fotografije / Photography: Vladislav Mitić
U ovoj kuhinji caruju ukusi teletine i jagnjetine sa Pešterske visoravni, jaki planinski sirevi, ruzmarin i nana
This cuisine is ruled by the tastes of veal and lamb from the Pester plateau, strong mountain cheeses, rosemary and mint
N ema svaki grad blaga koja ima Novi Pazar. Mnogo je bogatstava u njemu, a najveće su sami Pazarci. Jedan od najstarijih gradova u Srbiji ima najmlađe građane. Statistika kaže da su u proseku mladi 35 godina, a život po- kazuje da imaju trgovački i preduzetnički duh, da su obrazovani, savremeni, ali odani tradiciji, druželjubi- vi, gostoljubivi i veseli ljudi koji znaju šta je rad, a šta uživanje, merak i ćeif. Grad sa čajdžinicama, aščinicama, poslastičarni- cama i ćevabdžinicama raširio se na obroncima Par- ka prirode Golija . U srcu čaršije su Altun-alem džami- ja, Amir-agin han, Isa-begov hamam, Kula motrilja… Blaga su škole i fakulteti, reke, Raška i Jošanica, na či- jem ušću su pre šest vekova postavljeni gradski teme- lji. Njegova okolina, sa Starim Rasom i manastirom Sopoćani, pod zaštitom je Uneska. Neprocenjiva su ta bogatstva islamskog i hrišćanskog nasleđa, jer se ovde od davnina susreću svetovi Istoka i Zapada. Pazarci su ponosni i na gastronomska blaga svo- je duge tradicije. Puno je ćevabdžinica u Novom Paza-
Not every city has the treasures that Novi Pa- zar has. There are many riches here, and the greatest are the Pazar folk themselves. One of the oldest ci- ties in Serbia, it has the youngest citizenship. Statisti- cs show that thay have an average age of 35, and life reveals that they have a mercantile and entrepreneu- rial spirit, that they are educated and modern, but fa- ithful to tradition, friendly, hospitable and happy pe- ople, who know what work is, and what is enjoyment, bliss and gusto. The city with teahouses, small eateries, cake shops and kebab houses has spread over the slopes of Golija Nature Park. At the heart of the bazaar is Altun-alem Mosque, Amir-agin Han, Isa-bey Hamam, Motrilja Tower... Relaxed are the schools and colleges, the ri- vers Raška and Jošanica, at the confluence of which the city’s foundations were laid six centuries ago. Its surroundings, with Stari Ras Fortress and the Sopoća- ni Monastery, are under UNESCO protection. These are the most priceless riches of Islamic and Christian heritage, because the worlds of East and West have met here since ancient times. Pazar folk are also proud of the ga-
Čuvena je i ovdašnja halva s orasima i medom, pa tufahije, baklave... Also famous are local halva with walnuts and honey, and tufahije, baklava...
ru i svaki majstor ima tajnu koju ne otkriva. Beko, Rile, Januz, ili bilo ko drugi, reći će da za ćevape mora da ide juneće meso od vrata. Nikako od buta! Kazaće da pravi majstori kori- ste seckano, a ne mleveno meso, jer su tako ćevapi sočniji, ali recept ne- ćete dobiti. Mantije su drugi gastronomski simbol ovog grada. Umećete da ce- nite svaki zalogaj ako ste imali sreću da gledate kako se prave. Majstorske ruke najpre virtuozno razvlače testo u okruglu tanku koru. Potom po nje- nom obodu raspoređuju najfinije te- leće ili ovčje meso uprženo s lukom, a onda ga uvijaju i kao skulptori ve- što oblikuju paketiće, ređajući ih je- dan uz drugi u okrugli pleh. Poslu- žene na plehanom tanjiru, mantije izgledaju tako jednostavno. Pre izno- šenja na sto prelivaju se kiselim mle- kom u koje je naseckan beli luk i još malo zapeku... Ukus opija sva čula!
stronomic treasures of their long tra- dition. There are a lot of ćevapi kebab houses in Novi Pazar and each master has a secret that he does not reveal. Beko, Rile, Janus, or anyone else, will say that ćevapi must be made with beef from the neck. Never from the rump! They will tell you true masters use chopped meat, not minced, becau- se in that way the ćevapi are juicier, but you will not get the recipe. Mantija are another gastrono- mic symbol of this city. You will be able to appreciate every morsel if you are lucky enough to see how they are made. Master’s first stretch the do- ugh by hand like a virtuoso into a ro- und thin crust. Then along the pe- rimeter they place the finest veal or mutton fried with onion, and then they twist it like sculptors, skillfully shaping parcels and arranging them
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