PESME U SLAVU GROŽĐA I VINA
SONGS ON THE GLORY OF GRAPES AND WINE
Tekst / Words: Branka Gajić Fotografije / Photography: Nenad Pavlović, iStock
When the year is fruitful, the grape harvest has always been a cause of great joy. Everywhere until the last day of the harvest people look to the sky, hoping for hot and dry weather to enable the grapes to accumulate enough sugar How can one explain to a guest, a foreigner, that Serbia is a wine country with a long tradition when the Serbs themselves know little about that? How can one describe the autumn celebrations for the end of the harvest when only a few people remem- ber songs sung on the glory of some wine region, grapes or wine?
Kada je godina rodna, berba grožđa je oduvek bila razlog za velika veselja. Svuda se do poslednjeg dana berbe gleda u nebo, nada se toplom i suvom vremenu kako bi grožđe nakupilo dovoljno šećera
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ako objasniti gostu, strancu, da je Srbija vinska zemlja s dugom tradicijom kada i Srbi o tome tako malo znaju? Kako opisati jesenje proslave za kraj berbe kada se tek poneko seća pesama spevanih u slavu ne-
kog vinskog kraja, grožđa ili vina? Srećom, ima zaljubljenika koji su gotovo misionarski posveće- ni tome da šire zasade vinove loze i ožive stare sorte. Oni žive san da Srbiju vrate na svetsku vinsku sce- nu i ponovo joj obezbede mesto na kom je nekada bila. – Podmlađuju se stari vinogra- di, sade se novi. Vraćaju se naše autohtone sorte grožđa prokupac, tamjanika i bagrina, a od novih se lepo širi morava – kaže Đurđa Ka- tić, najpoznatiji srpski somelije, di- plomirani inženjer tehnologije i žena s grožđem u genima. Od nje saznajemo da je Kraljevi-
“Oh, harvest, you I mourn with regret, what is more beatiful than you in the world...” sang poet Branko Radičević „Ao, berbo, tebe žalim kletu, ta šta lepše od tebe na svetu“, pevao je slavni karlovački pesnik Branko Radičević
Fortunately, there are enthusiasts who are committed almost like missionaries to spreading vine plantations and revi- ving old varieties. They live the dream of returning Serbia to the global wine sce- ne and restoring the position the coun- try once had. - Old vineyards are being rejuvena- ted and new ones are being planted. Our indigenous grape varieties are returning - Prokupac, Tamjanika and Bagrina - and of the new ones Morava is spreading ni- cely – says Đurđa Katić, the most famous Serbian sommelier, a qualified engineer of technology and a woman with grapes in her genes. From her we discover that the King- dom of Serbia back in the 13 th century, during the time of the descendents of Stefan Nemanja, had a law related to the preparation and quality of wine. And in the Charter of Stefan the First Crowned records exist showing that Emperor Du- šan had large vineyards and a royal wine cellar near Prizren. In the same Charter is also recorded the significance of the
na Srbija još u 13. veku, u vreme na- slednika Stefana Nemanje, imala za- kon koji se odnosio na spravljanje i kvalitet vina. I u Povelji Stefana Pr- vovenčanog postoje zapisi o tome da je car Dušan imao velike vino- grade i dvorski vinski podrum u bli- zini Prizrena. U istoj povelji je zabe- leženo i značenje vinskog pehara u srednjovekovnoj Srbiji. Pehar vina je bio poziv na razgovor i dogovor, a ispijanje vina iz pehara značilo je zakletvu, opo- menu, obećanje… Mnogo je istorijskih priča i legendi iz davni- na, ali početak 20. veka se još dobro pamti u svim krajevima Srbije, gde je grožđe vekovima sazre-
wine goblet in medieval Serbia. A wine goblet was an invitation to converse and reach agreement, and drinking wine from goblets meant an oath, a war- ning, a promise... There are many historical stories and legends
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