MODA / FASHION
mance that reigned in spring – the season of flowing, translucent dresses in pastel hues and delicate details de- signed to elicit sighs—the pieces for autumn are darker, almost gothic. At the Paris shows, brands like Alaïa, Di- or and McQueen delved into dark- er sources of inspiration, turning to black lace and sheer chiffon, Victori-
In a surprising turnaround, just a few years after the fashion indus- try largely banned real fur, one of the top trends is the return of fur details, though of course recycled and in a dif- ferent form, with the industry turn- ing to faux fur. Altuzarra’s soft sheep- skin jackets have found themselves on the shopping lists of fashion editors.
One or two fashion eras always tend to stand out in a typical fash- ion show season – from leather jack- ets and suits inspired by the ‘80s, to ‘60s-style miniskirts and prints. Fashion is ultimately cyclical — with trends always returning. However, that tradition has this season been elevated to a hitherto unseen level, with references to almost every rele- vant fashion decade — from the Vic- torian era at McQueen to the futur- ism of Tom Ford. Between these two extremes, Fendi commemorated its own centenary by bringing back looks from the 1930s. Meanwhile, Pra- da and Miu Miu harked back to the 1950s and ‘60s, while Chemena Ka- mali’s collection for Chloé blended the ‘70s and the mid-2000s in a sur- prisingly seductive way — even re- launching the iconic Paddington bag. YSL’s Antonio Vaccarello opted for striking colours reminiscent of Yvès Saint Laurent’s designs of the ‘80s, while Veronica Leoni’s debut collec- tion for Calvin Klein marked a jour- ney back to the 1990s — the golden age of this American fashion brand. Designers are returning to the ar- chives and delving deep into explor- ing what makes their brands unique in order to reinterpret that for today. In a landscape of quiet luxury and minimalism, many brands have start- ed resembling each other, but some of this season’s strongest collections re- turn to the roots of what makes them special. People want to feel an emo- tional connection to brands, and de- signers are once again starting to create space for that connection as fashion shifts towards authentici- ty. This is evident on the catwalks in some cases, through a sense of herit- age and history. With all the great changes taking place among creative directors, there is an ever-clearer need for authen- tic expression — while designers at- tempt to adapt their unique visions to suit the fashion codes that define some of the greatest houses. This is a shift that will continue to gain ground — as designers take on new roles and find their own way to interpret fash- ion house heritage.
an collars and tight-fitting, rough leather. Milan’s Fer- ragamo and Alberta Ferret- ti carried the same beau- tifully melancholic spirit, albeit with noticeably less intensity. That’s because the fashion industry – like all others – follows the flow of society, and our ward- robes will precisely reflect that atmosphere this au- tumn.
Fendi
In Milan, fur details appeared in the form of shearling coat collars at Pra- da and Giorgio Armani, while fur de- tails also made a strong impression on the catwalks of Paris, with stoles worn as accessories at Miu Miu, Chloé pre- senting fur-trimmed coats and bag charms, and Valentino utilising fur in various ways.
Tom Ford
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