Kiseli kuvani kupus s kolenicom najbolje se slaže
sa običnom „seljačkom“ projom
Sour cabbage with pork knuckle pairs best with peasant- style cornbread
HER MAJESTY – THE CABBAGE ROLL Sarma is the queen of Serbia’s winter feasts, which is made using cabbage leaves that are pickled at home and filled with minced meat and rice to form rolls. A true winter fairytale is told by the pot in which sarma rolls cook slowly, simmering and combining flavours and overlap- ping aromas, led by smoked, cured meat. Sar- ma also has its own Lenten version in which the meat is replaced with sunflower seeds, which experienced cooks will prepare in such a way that you can hardly tell any difference in taste. The name of this beloved dish on the Serbi- an spread is derived from the word “sarmak”, which translates as wrap or swaddle. Yaprak sarma, which is included in Turkish culinary her- itage, replaces the cabbage with vine leaves that are commonly stuffed with rice and oth- er vegetables, and less often with rice and meat, or just meat wrapped in a vine leaf. All that remains of that Turkish influence today is the name and the fact that the ingredients are wrapped in a leaf, though in our case the leaf in question is a pickled cabbage leaf – the tra- dition of which arrived in our country from the sauerkraut of Central Europe. A well-known fact is that Serbian sarma is best prepared from mixed minced meat, which dominates the rice. We also add cured meats, bacon, and sometimes a roux thickener. Sarma became a popular dish in the 19 th cen- tury, when Serbia began the process of liberat- ing itself from Ottoman rule and the rural popu- lation began migrating to the cities. It was then that Serbian sarma as we know and enjoy it to- day was created.
Njeno veličanstvo - sarma Sarma je kraljica srpske zimske trpeze. Li- stove kupusa koje ovde domaćini i domaći- ce sami kisele, rolaju se sa mlevenim mesom i pirinčem. Pravu zimsku bajku priča lonac u kojem se sarma dugo kuva i krčka, spaja- ju ukusi i preklapaju mirisi, vođeni dimljenim suvim mesom. Sarma ima i svoju posnu, ve- getarijansku varijantu, gde umesto mesa idu semenke suncokreta. Iskusna kuvarica zgo- toviće je tako da se razlika u ukusu gotovo i ne oseti. Naziv jednog od omiljenih jela na srpskim tr- pezama vezan je za reč sarmak, što u pre- vodu znači zaviti, umotati. Japrak sarma je u turskom kulinarskom nasleđu neki sadr- žaj, najčešće pirinač sa dodacima drugog
povrća, ređe pirinač sa mesom ili samo me- so umotano u list vinove loze. Kod nas je od tog turskog uticaja ostalo ime i činjenica da određeni sadržaj uvijamo u list, ali u doma- ćem slučaju u pitanju je list kiselog kupusa, koji nam dolazi iz centralne Evrope. Kao što je dobro poznato, srpska sarma je najbolja ako se sprema od mešanog mlevenog mesa, ko- je dominira nad drugim sastojkom fila – pirin- čem. Da bi dobila karakterističan ukus, doda- jemo suvo meso, slaninu, ponekad i zapršku. Inače, sarma postaje traženo jelo tek u 19. veku, kada je Srbija započela proces oslo- bađanja i kada je krenula migracija seoskog stanovništva u gradove. To je vreme u ko- jem je kreirana srpska sarma kakvu i danas rado jedemo.
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