epitomises old-world luxury — with uniformed porters, lake views and a lobby where pleasant silence reigns. For those seeking something more modern, The Fontenay offers curved glass archi- tecture and a rooftop spa with pano- ramic views. Travellers who prefer more intimate, design-minded accommoda- tion can opt for the Tortue Hamburg, which occupies historic townhouses and captures the playful, seductive spir- it of the city. Where to eat and drink This is a city that eats like a mariner. Try the Fischbrötchen — a simple her- ring sandwich that’s sold at kiosks in the port area — and you’ll immediate- ly understand why it has a cult status. At the Fischereihafen Restaurant, the view of the docks is just as important as the menu’s sole meunière. Howev- er, Hamburg has also quietly grown to become one of Germany’s most excit- ing fine-dining destinations. Kevin Fe- hling’s The Table boasts three Michelin stars and serves plates that resem- ble sculptures. Then there’s the restau- rant Hæbel, which is housed in a ware- house-like space and celebrates the farm-to-table philosophy, with men- us that change constantly according to seasonal ingredients. When the night calls for something stronger, drop in at Le Lion - Bar de Paris, a cocktail institu- tion that’s hidden behind an unmarked door, or head to the Clouds bar roof- top, which is expected to soon reopen following a well-deserved hiatus and which has views that extend over Ham- burg in a flickering panorama. Must-see spots Beyond the port, the city’s shopping scene is as chic as you can find any- where in Europe. The grandiose arcades of the Neuer Wall combine legend- ary jewellers with hip boutiques, while the bohemian quarter of Schanzenvier- tel is packed with concept stores, vin- tage workshops and cafés where laptops glow deep into the night. Art lovers should also visit the Kunsthalle, where German romanticism meets contem- porary greats. Just a few steps away is the lively Deichtorhallen museum, one of Europe's most ambitious spaces for contemporary art and photography.
THE FONTENAY
Port city with a soul that never sleeps Hamburg isn’t a city that you merely pass through - it intrigues and draws you into its canals, its smoky jazz bars and glittering glass concert halls – and it never releases you entirely H amburg is a city where water carves routes through its history, where luxury and rebellion live side by side, and where every night feels like a journey that’s yet to be taken. Berlin perhaps has the cutting edge, while Munich possess- es the sightseeing charm, but Hamburg has something else: a sense of mari- time self-confidence, a cosmopolitan spirit and a subterranean restlessness that comes from centuries of confront- ing the might of the sea. Its quarters are connected by almost 2,500 bridg- es — more than Amsterdam and Venice combined. The River Elbe carries tank- ers and cruisers past the futuristic El- bphilharmonie concert hall, which was designed by Herzog & de Meuron and which floats above the Port of Hamburg like a shard of glass. And then there’s Speicherstadt, the world’s largest ware- house district. Its neo-Gothic red brick façades and narrow canals make it feel
like the backdrop for some long-forgot- ten maritime opera. Locals approach the city's main lakes, Binnenalster and Außenalster, like ope- nair living rooms: during the summer, canoes glide past swans, while run- ners circle the lakeshore. During win- ter, when mist rises from the water, the cafés around the Jungfernstieg prome- nade become the city’s social fireplace. Hamburg’s history has been marked by trade and constant transformation. As a Hanseatic port, it once represented Eu- rope's gateway to the world. That DNA remains to this day, though nowadays it is reflected in the city’s art galleries, Michelin-starred restaurants and mu- sic emanating from venues that range from punk rock clubs on the Reeper- bahn to the aforementioned acoustical- ly perfect Elbphilharmonie. The street and entertainment district that is the Reeperbahn — a notorious, neon-lit ar- ea that’s never quite been tamed – was transformed from a navy red light dis- trict into a nightlife artery, where cock- tail bars are situated alongside thea- tres and techno clubs. The surrounding St. Pauli quarter continues to repre- sent the rebellious heart of Hamburg. And the best part of all is that Hamburg isn’t a city that stands still, with new neighbourhoods springing up along the waterfront — such as HafenCity, representing Europe’s largest urban de- velopment project. Where to stay Hamburg’s hotels reflect its bifurcat- ed nature, where commercial elegance meets cutting edge design. The Fair- mont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, occu- pying the shore of Außenalster lake,
72 | Hamburg » Hamburg
Made with FlippingBook interactive PDF creator