MODA / FASHION
AUTUMN TREND REPORT
GUCCI
Prepare for an exciting fashion season Basic no longer implies ordinary, underwear has become visible, and when you’re in two minds about what to wear – wide-leg trousers save the day H as quiet luxury final- ly breathed its last? If you’ve had your fill of this lifestyle catchphrase, you’ll
colours. But black remains here to stay – it’s actually so popular that even Ian Griffiths, Max Mara’s crea- tive director, has temporarily aban- doned the brand’s signature “camel” shade in order to explore silhou- ettes in darker tones. The little black dress now has more in common with a silk night- gown than a cocktail cut, prioritis- ing the seduction of vintage linen ahead of efficient elegance. Col- lections have included lingerie in- spiration as a common motif, but it’s interesting to consider cur- rent variations in the interpreta- tion of what is actually intimate. Of course, you can take the trend literally and opt for an overall dress or a corset. But you can also exper- iment, such as with a dress com- posed of a bra, a completely trans- parent top or a shirt with sewn ties. And yet, the biggest news is proba- bly that the provocative “no pants look”, which has reigned supreme on the catwalks for the past few sea- sons, has been pushed out of the trend rotation by the return of un- derpants in a big style. And when we say “big style”, we’re referring to voluminous silhouettes and baggy fits, which will probably prove an absolute fashion bestseller during this autumn and winter. They are paired with leather jackets (luxurious leather that’s fabulously soft to the touch and masterfully treated at the best ar- tisan workshops was also an im- portant theme expressed through the collections of important fashion houses and names) or nonchalant- ly draped cloaks made of soft knit- wear that’s simple but wonderful-
like what the most prestigious fash- ion houses’ designers have prepared for the coming autumn. Many of them have taken an extraordinary approach to the daily wardrobe, ex- ploring the texture and form of fab- rics through layered and accentu- ated silhouettes. The collections presented in New York, London, Milan and Par- is offer a bunch of eloquent solu- tions for wearing your favourite (and most essential) items of cloth- ing in a completely new and play- ful way. The fashion of the season ahead includes a very sentimental- ly sophisticated dimension that re- flects real-life needs. This sensibility places an emphasis on individuality and identity, as opposed to trendy staples or nostalgic novelties. The essence is no longer in looking im- maculate in a traditional way, but rather in finding one’s own person- al style through wardrobe essen- tials. For instance, a classic coat is now anything but classic: Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno’s interpretation shimmers with fringes. The cat- walks of every fashion metropolis were flooded with fringes – in plac- es where you’d least expect them, whether hanging from the hips of a knitted dress or woven into the surface of a coat in the form of a co- coon. If the autumn fashion shows are anything to go by, it’s time to abandon neutral colour schemes in favour of unexpected hues for cool- er days, like bright, neon and pastel
72 | Moda » Fashion
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