IN THE KITCHEN
WITH JOHN ASH
Deliciousness—foiled again! Salmon ‘hobo packs’
T his is a simple technique that could be used for any meaty fish that becomes infused with the flavors of tomato, capers, garlic and lemon. This can be done in a regular or wood-fired oven, on a grill or nestled right down
in the dying coals of a grill or campfire. You could also cook in a preheated 425-degree oven for 5 minutes or so. The idea comes from the days of hobos, those vagabonds of the road, who carried no pots and pans to cook with. u
Serves 4 Four 14-inch square pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 paper-thin slices of prosciutto or other salumi of your choice Four 5-ounce fillets salmon (about 1-inch thick) Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 very thin lemon slices (from one medium lemon) 1 large garlic clove, peeled and very thinly sliced 1 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes 2 tablespoons drained capers 2 tablespoons roughly chopped basil or parsley or a combination Lay the foil sheets out in a single layer and brush each with some of the olive oil. Place a slice of prosciutto in the middle of the foil. Season both sides of fish with salt and pepper and place on top of prosciutto. Place two lemon slices on top. Combine the garlic, tomatoes, capers and basil and remaining oil in a small bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the tomato mixture over the lemon-topped fish.
Fold foil over fish, tenting it slightly and crimp edges together tightly to firmly seal. Cook in a preheated 400-degree oven, on a covered grill, or in ash covered coals until fish is just cooked through, eight to 10 minutes depending on thickness of fish. Though it is a little tricky to check if fish is done, you can remove one packet and carefully open, taking care not to lose any of the wonderful juices and check for doneness. Remember that fish will continue to cook a bit as it sits. Serve by carefully opening each pack to reserve juices. Note: Alternately you can fold the foil up to form a bowl shape but not seal it at the top. This can go directly on the grill with some smoking chips. You will get a bit of smoky flavor plus it will be easier to check for doneness.
John Ash is a chef, author, and culinary educator, and in the North Bay he’s often referred to as the “Father of Wine Country Cuisine.” On Saturdays from 11 a.m. to noon, John demystifies the cooking process on The Good Food Hour with co-host Steve Garner on KSRO (1350 AM, 103.5 FM and 94.5 FM). For more information, visit chefjohnash.com.
July 2024
NorthBaybiz 67
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