This book is all about how steel are assembled at the building site
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO
ASSEMBLING YOUR FRAME UP NOW SKELETON https://frameupnow.com/
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Alert this symbol at the beginning of each chapter plays a video that explains the detail presented in the chapter. Click on it to play the video.
Table of Contents
About this Document
4 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 7 8
Purpose of this Assembly Guide How to use this Assembly Guide
1. INTRODUCTION
SAFETY WARNINGS Codes and Standards
2. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED
Essential safety equipment
Hand tools Power tools
Tool accessories
10 11 14 16 22 35 36 53 56
Hardware
3. SITE PREPARATION AND CONCRETE FOUNDATION
4. SNAPSHEET - LAYING OUT THE SNAPLINES FOR YOUR WALL PANELS
The 3 – 4 – 5 Method
5. DELIVERY
6. INSTALLATION OF WALL PANELS
Attaching Sheathing to FrameUpNow Wall Panels (VersaPin Option)
7. X-BRACING AND TENSIONERS
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8. INSTALLATION OF TRUSSES
58 59 64 64 65 66 67 67 68 69 70
Flat Roof Assembly
9. Energy Efficiency and Solar
Start with the Envelope
Insulation Windows
Home Air Barrier Wrap Introduce Fresh Air Order an Energy Audit
Solar Power
10. Your Quick Guide to Constructing a Steel Skeleton
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Thank you for purchasing your FrameUpNow cold formed steel frame!
About this Document This Guide covers assembly procedures along with detail drawings to assist the FrameUpNow customer in assembling their cold-steel frame (CSF) structure. Whether you are a Do-It-Yourselfer, or owner working with a contractor or a builder to construct your home/structure, this guide is for you. You will need this guide after you have consulted with us, held a product sample in your hands, eventually selected your design and desired customizations, received permits for your home or structure and hired contractors for site prep and foundation work. Purpose of this Assembly Guide This assembly guide is designed to make building a FUN home/structure as easy, simple, and safe as possible. This guide will lead you through the 7 easy steps to building your FUN home/structure: 1. Familiarize yourself with this assembly guide and building process. 2. Organize family and friends for a home raising effort or hire help (contractor/builder). 3. Ensure your site is ready for panel delivery. 4. Snap the lines for layout of your walls. 5. Erect the wall panels. 6. Install bracing and tensioners. 7. Install the roof trusses. After you complete the 7 steps outlined in this guide, you will be ready for siding, roofing, electrical and plumbing work. How to use this Assembly Guide
Before starting the frame assembly, make sure to read the whole guide, and before starting each phase, read the section twice, and ensure that you fully understand all the steps involved. This will help reduce the likelihood of mistakes.
Our experienced customer support representatives are available to assist at any point during the building process. You can reach us at +1 (888) 864-0184.
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1. INTRODUCTION
SAFETY WARNINGS CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL AUTHORITIES ABOUT THE REQUIRED SAFETY MEASURES YOU NEED TO PUT IN PLACE PRIOR TO AND DURING CONSTRUCTION. IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE OWNER/BUILDER/INSTALLER TO ENSURE ALL LOCAL SAFE WORK PRACTICES ARE ADHERED TO AND THE SAFETY OF THE WHOLE SITE IS MAINTAINED AT ALL TIMES. WITH ANY TOOL YOU USE READ AND ADHERE TO ALL THE MANUFACTURER PROVIDED SAFETY WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS. Codes and Standards The most widely adopted model building code in North America is the International Building Code (IBC), available from the International Code Council. The primary requirements in the IBC that guide cold- formed steel design and construction have migrated from ASTM reference standards to standards developed and maintained by the American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI). As of the 2018 IBC, the AISI standards are now the primary standards of record for cold-formed steel. 1 Compliance with other codes and standards may need to be added to your plan set, subject to your state and country building codes. This step is done locally by you or your contactor.
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2. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED
Your FrameUpNow cold-formed steel home kit will be prefabricated in a plant and delivered to your site for assembly. It will arrive with all major frame components and all necessary hardware. To begin your build, you will also need a few tools and supplies, preferably before the delivery of your wall panels.
If you don’t already have some of these items, you can purchase or rent them at most home improvement retailers like Home Depot or Lowes or at a rental supply store.
Essential safety equipment
Work gloves to protect your hands when working with steel frames. Leather is the preferred material and lasts the longest.
Safety Glasses –Always wear protective eye gear.
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Proper ear protection - when working with the grinder, rotary hammer drill or other power tools, you’ll need to wear safety ear protection.
Hand tools
Speed Square and Framer’s Square – Used to square corners of wall panels and trusses.
Hammer – used for attaching braces to the ground when securing the frames.
Aviation Snips - used for cutting sheet metal such as coiled strap.
An assortment of Clamps will be used to secure panels and trusses before permanent attachment.
4 ft Level, preferably magnetized.
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Metal construction stakes - used for attaching braces to the ground when securing the frames.
100 ft Measuring tape since you will be measuring longer spans.
Snapline chalk reel and chalk powder - used to layout the position of your walls on the floor; It allows you to draw a straight line with only one snap.
Pencil and a Sharpie – to mark the layout and position of your walls on the floor.
5 ½ inch Sill Sealer – the insulation layer installed between the floor and the bottom surface of the wall panel, on all exterior walls.
Power tools Impact driver for securing the wall panels to each other and to wood floors.
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Impact wrench for fastening large nuts and bolts; it’s larger and delivers more power than a cordless drill.
Cordless Drill for drilling additional holes in the panels.
Rotary Hammer Drill for drilling holes in the concrete for the supplied Titen anchors.
Powder-actuated tool, often called a Hilti or a Ramset gun, for securing the interior panels to the concrete foundation.
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Circular Saw for cutting the OSB, plywood and any other wood elements such as wood beams, trim, and similar.
Grinder - used for cutting additional service holes. and metal blades to suit
Material handling lift – depending on the size of the home you selected, the type of roof, etc., roof trusses for your home may have long spans and be heavy. If they are too heavy to be manually handled, you may need to rent a lift.
Tool accessories
Hole saw
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Hardware
Hex screw
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Tie Plate – used for securing the connections between the wall panels, panels and headers, etc.
Hold down clip – for securing the panels to the concrete foundation. Can be used with or without the stiffener.
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Coiled strap – for bracing wall studs and cross brace panels and headers to studs.
Wall brace tensioner
RCA 225 for connecting trusses to balloon walls and hips to the truss and to lock the floor within the perimeter of the joists
Titen anchor bolt - a high-strength screw anchor for use in concrete.
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Fender washer
PPHD Sheathing-to-CFS screw – for fastening wood structural panels and other building materials to cold-formed steel framing.
3. SITE PREPARATION AND CONCRETE FOUNDATION
We recommend engaging professionals to prepare your site for the foundation of your FrameUpNow Home. You’ll generally need two different contractors, one for site prep and another for your concrete slab or wood floor. Do your research and choose them carefully, because mistakes can be costly and have far-reaching and long-term consequences.
Site preparation is always the first phase of any major construction. This process involves clearing the land of trees and debris, leveling the ground for building, and moving materials to and from the site. Using architectural blueprints as a guide, your contractors will stake out the parcel of land and the building site. The staking process helps ensure the home will not encroach on others’ property and aids ideal placement to match your site plan. Excavating , or digging out dirt, is required to create a solid foundation for your home. Typically, the dirt removed during the excavation process may be used later, during the
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grading process.
Land Grading is the process of leveling and compacting the soil, so the ground inclines properly. In addition to keeping your home flat on the ground, this step will help ensure your home has proper drainage and driveways are safely pitched for future access. To ensure that you have sufficient space for panel delivery and layout, instruct your site prep contractor to allow enough flat perimeter around the slab for this step (at least the height of your panels plus 3 ft).
Add fill and compact to meet specifications.
To start your home with the best foundation possible, hire professionals for the concrete foundation work. To conform to your plan, they will add the Simpson hold-downs as necessary.
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4. SNAPSHEET - LAYING OUT THE SNAPLINES FOR YOUR WALL PANELS 75% Professionals who produce your floor (slab, foundation, subfloor) will ensure it is
square and dimensioned to accommodate your decision regarding the thickness of the shear wall material, foam sheets, wire,
wrap, and stucco, brick or stone veneer. The distance from the edge of the floor to the chalk line which marks the wall layout is determined by the thickness and the weight of these layers. The panel layout plan of your FrameUpNow project is dimensioned to be perfectly aligned to the edge of the floor, and here we assume that the shear wall and additional wall build-up material extend past the edge of the floor. The following instructions for laying out the snaplines for your FrameUpNow wall panels apply to all types of floors, concrete slab or subfloor, and all levels - ground, first or subsequent levels. Before you install the wall panels, you need to make sure that the layout for your walls is square on the floor. You can’t rely on it being correct/square, because occasionally floors are a bit out of square.
The tools and technique for snapping lines
Prepare the chalk reel box, chalk powder, 100 ft measuring tape, chalk stick and a sharpie. To snap a perfectly straight chalk line, you need to pull it tight, like a string on an archery bow; not so tight that it breaks, but tight enough that it will give a good snap. Once pulled tight, hold the string against the surface at your mark. Pull the string away from the floor and let it go to snap a chalk line on the floor.
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To snap LONG chalk lines accurately when chalking your floor follow these steps:
- Attach the chalk line at the starting point of the line. Drive a temporary nail at this point and wind the string around the nail or have a helper hold the end of the line. - Now pull the string loaded with chalk out of the chalk reel and go to the mark on the opposite end of the floor. - Secure the chalk line at the end point of the line or have a helper to hold the line in place and tighten while you snap the chalk line. - Holding the midpoint down, snap one side, then the other side. This will give you a more accurate snap.
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Here we demonstrate a combination of two standard methods for snapping a series of square layout lines for your walls: the 3-4-5 method and the diagonals method. We recommend that you go through all the steps outlined here to ensure that the frame installation is off to a good start. If these instructions seem confusing, you can find lots of other resources for doing this on the internet, or you can ask your floor contractor to help you with this step.
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The 3 – 4 – 5 Method
Snapping lines on the largest rectangle on your floor provides a square reference for the remaining areas lying inside or outside the large rectangle.
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Step 7. We will mark the remaining large exterior walls next: read your floor plan to find the dimensions X and Y (the distances between the interior sides of the exterior walls.) Use dimension X to mark the snapline for the wall opposite the reference wall. Make sure these lines are parallel by measuring between them at each end.
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Step 9. Measure and snap the lines for smaller rectangles using the same method. The 3-4-5 formula can be adjusted for any size space, just make sure to use the appropriate multiplier or denominator, like we did here with 30-40-50 ft. For a smaller space, this may be 15-20-25 ft, 9-12-15 ft, or 6-8-10 ft.
Now, let’s double-check using the Diagonals Method.
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Step 10. You have snapped the 4 lines on the largest rectangle of your floor – these are the interior sides of your exterior walls and therefore you have the 4 the interior corners of your home marked. Now measure the diagonals between these corners. Start with point A and go to the opposite corner, then measure the other diagonal. If these 2 diagonal dimensions match, you have confirmed that your layout is square.
Follow the same instructions for the second level. Snapping lines is necessary because the exterior walls are now square, and the panels are dimensioned and labeled precisely. Before securing the interior panels to the floor, make sure to confirm they are square using a large framer’s square.
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5. DELIVERY
The panels and trusses are stacked on our trailers and may or not be in order of next panel to install. When unloading panels from the truck and trailers take care to place the panels within the layout area in sequential order of installation.
To ensure that you have sufficient space for panel delivery and layout, instruct your site prep contractor to allow enough flat perimeter around the slab for this step (at least the height of your panels plus 3 ft).
You are now ready to start assembly of your home!
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6. INSTALLATION OF WALL PANELS
The assembly process is easy. For the installation of wall panels, you will need a few people, but you could invite friends and family to help, and have a good old-fashioned house-raising, which would make this process faster, more fun and memorable. Each panel is numbered and corresponds to a master framing plan.
The window and door headers will arrive already assembled on the panels.
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Before you bring the panels to the floor, take a moment and write out the panel numbers on the floor in their correct locations. Each panel has a YELLOW panel number label on the bottom left outside corner of the wall panel looking from the exterior.
Most frame panels can be lifted by a few people.
Once you have the exterior frame panels positioned outside and around the floor, position the interior wall panels in the living space of the home before you complete assembly of your exterior wall panels.
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The frame assembly begins at one corner as indicated on your panel layout sheet. Lay the 5 ½ inch sill sealer along the snaplines for the exterior walls, and you are ready to start putting up the wall panels.
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With the self-tapping screws provided, join the first two panels together.
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Continue adding additional panels according to the framing plan. For the long walls, you may need a temporary support brace provided with your frame kit.
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Drive a stake in the ground to attach one end of the brace outside the floor and the other end to the panel with self-tapping screws.
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The floor plate holes on the panels must be drilled. Once you have raised and secured the panel to the adjacent panel, drill a hole in the concrete foundation using a hammer drill and install the provided Hold Down Bracket at each corner of the bottom plate, along with the stiffener where needed. Secure them with the provided Titen anchor bolts and washers, but do not tighten them just yet. In case of a wood floor, use the appropriate screws provided in your kit, but do not tighten them just yet.
Tighten only when you are certain that the exterior walls are square. Soon the frame will begin to take shape. After you raise the interior panels, check them for square. Continue the frame assembly, building room after room, panel after panel.
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Each wall panel should also be attached to the adjacent panel, using the Tie Plate provided, screwed to the top horizontal plate of the panels.
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Corners of the frame structure should be reinforced by Oriented Strand Board, plywood, or other structural material. This adds to the structural stability of the walls before the beams and trusses are lifted. Attach the strand board to the frame using the appropriate wood-to-metal screws, available at your home improvement retailer.
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The pictured The Strong-Drive PPHD Sheathing-to-CFS screw is one example of the screw for fastening wood structural panels and other building materials to cold-formed steel framing. Like the OSB, plywood these are available at your local hardware or home improvement retailers. You may also use VersaPin explained on pages 53-55.
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To attach headers to the adjacent panels. use the coil strap or the tie plates.
To assure that the wall of panels is perfectly vertical, run a string or laser line across the top and adjust the temporary brace to secure the panels.
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To ensure that the internal walls are vertical, brace them as well.
Per your plan, you will also be installing patio and porch beams. Wood beams, posts, and decorative hardware are available at your local home improvement retailers. On interior panels for load-bearing walls, you will need to use the Rotary Hammer Drill and the Hold Down Bolts provided. Tighten everything ONLY when the frame is completely assembled. If your home has a concrete foundation, interior panels for non-load-bearing walls are then secured using the Powder Actuated Tool (aka the Ramset or Hilti). If your home has a raised floor, use the impact driver and the screws provided. Your home is really taking shape now! The next step is attaching X-brace tensioners, and soon, you’ll be moving on to installation of the roof trusses.
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Attaching Sheathing to FrameUpNow Wall Panels (VersaPin Option)
Attaching Sheathing: Screws or VersaPin An alternative to attaching OSB or plywood sheathing with self-tapping screws is the VersaPin® system . All FrameUpNow plans include a fastening schedule table indicating the appropriate self-tapping screw or VersaPin for attaching OSB or plywood sheathing to FrameUpNow wall panels. The table specifies fastener type and spacing based on: • Steel gauge (20 ga. or 18 ga.) • Wind speed exposure • Snow load • Seismic design category Always follow the fastening schedule provided with your project plans and any local code requirements. What Is a VersaPin? A VersaPin is a hardened steel pin designed to mechanically fasten wood structural panels (OSB or plywood) to cold-formed steel framing. The pin is driven through the sheathing and into the steel stud using a proprietary installation tool. When properly installed, VersaPins provide a fast, consistent, and code-compliant attachment method for structural sheathing.
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Benefits of the VersaPin System • Faster installation compared to individual self-tapping screws • Consistent embedment depth and fastening quality • Reduced installer fatigue • Clean fastening with minimal surface damage to sheathing • Suitable for high-volume sheathing applications Installation Notes • Use only the VersaPin size and spacing specified in your FrameUpNow fastening schedule.
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• Confirm compatibility with your panel gauge (18 ga. or 20 ga.) and structural requirements. • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for tool setup, air pressure (if pneumatic), and safety procedures. • Verify local code approval for pin-based fastening systems before use.
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7. X-BRACING AND TENSIONERS
To keep the panels square to each other, square to the floor, and to prevent the walls from racking, intermittent panels have been delivered with X braces installed.
The straps form an X brace, 2 for each selected panel. They are attached at the opposite lower and upper corner of the panel with self-tapping screws, two per side. You must tension the strap; Drill a 1/4-inch hole in the approximate center of each strap, and screw on the tensioner with the Wall Brace Tensioner bolt facing out, and the tensioner on the inside of the strap.
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Tensioner Use a framer’s level to confirm that the panel remains plumb while adjusting the tensioners. Hold the level against a stud on either end of the panel and adjust tensioners with the suggested clutch level of 3 on your electric drill. Be careful not to overtighten the tensioner because it could move the panel out of square. All that’s necessary is a few pounds of torque. Now add a self-tapping screw at each point where the strap crosses a stud or brace.
We have provided extra tensioners and strapping in the event you choose to brace other panels.
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8. INSTALLATION OF TRUSSES
The trusses will be delivered in packages, grouped in order of location on the roof. Each truss has a yellow label on the bottom that matches the truss label on your truss plan.
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Flat Roof Assembly
Depending on the size of your structure, you may be able to manually raise the trusses. If they are too heavy, use proper material lifting equipment to raise the first truss to the top of wall.
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Mark the location of the trusses on top of the walls, per your truss layout plan.
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Secure the first truss to the top of each wall with two screws through the bottom track of the truss.
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Use a brace to temporarily secure the truss to a wall panel if necessary.
Raise the second truss and repeat the process for each subsequent truss.
For long, two-part trusses, installed over a load bearing wall, use the Tie Plate to attach two parts of the truss to each other. This is similar to the process you used to join two wall panels together with a Tie Plate. Continue truss assembly according to the manual until all trusses are in place. When all the trusses are set, install the L metal at each end of the trusses and attach it to the parapet wall. Use Tie Plates to attach each of the trusses to each wall panel.
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9. Energy Efficiency and Solar
Energy efficiency begins with your home’s ability to keep warm air in and cold air out in the winter, and hot air out and cooler air in during the summer. After building a high-performance thermal envelope, you can determine the appropriate solar power system to reduce your electric costs—possibly to near zero—subject to the electricity purchase policy and net-metering rules of your local utility. Start with the Envelope The Frame / Skeleton Begin by constructing an energy-efficient exterior wall assembly. You may choose: • 2 × 4 wall panels (true dimension: 1.5 in. × 3.5 in.) • 2 × 6 wall panels (true dimension: 1.5 in. × 5.5 in.) From an insulation standpoint: • A 5.5-inch wall cavity can hold approximately 57% more insulation than a 3.5-inch wall cavity. • A 2 × 4 wall accommodates only about 66% of the insulation of a 2 × 6 wall. The cost to upgrade from 2 × 4 to 2 × 6 exterior skeleton walls is typically: • ~7% more in skeleton cost • ~2% more in total project cost This upgrade often delivers a strong return in comfort, durability, and long-term energy savings.
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Insulation Most regions offer both open-cell and closed-cell spray foam insulation . Common approaches include: • Hybrid system: 2 inches of spray foam plus batt insulation • Full closed-cell spray foam: highest performance option for both air sealing and insulation High-performance insulation may add approximately $2.00 to $4.00 per square foot to the total cost of the home, depending on region and market conditions.
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Windows Most jurisdictions require energy-efficient windows. High-performance double-pane or triple-pane windows are recommended. Consider: • U-factor (lower is better) • Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) • Proper flashing and air sealing
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Home Air Barrier Wrap
Wrap the home with Tyvek® or an equivalent exterior air barrier. This layer reduces uncontrolled air leakage and is standard practice in modern construction.
Introduce Fresh Air
When you improve airtightness with: • 2 × 6 walls • Foam insulation • Exterior air barrier wrap You must provide controlled fresh air ventilation using an Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) . An ERV: • Exhausts stale air • Brings in filtered fresh air • Balances indoor pressure • Improves indoor air quality Install the ERV in a laundry room or utility space to avoid pulling contaminants into living areas.
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Order an Energy Audit After completing the thermal envelope, engage a Home Energy Auditor or Home Performance Contractor to test performance and size a solar system.
Ask these questions: • Do you use a calibrated blower door and provide ACH50 results? • Do you include infrared scanning during depressurization testing? • Do you provide a written air-sealing strategy? • Will you provide documentation estimating monthly energy use and solar offset potential?
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Solar Power You are now prepared to size and order your solar power system.
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10. Your Quick Guide to Constructing a Steel Skeleton
Before beginning the construction of your steel skeleton, we strongly recommend you purchase all the appropriate safety equipment for working on a construction site. This should include safety boots and safety goggles or glasses, a hard hat, a high-visibility jacket and ear defenders for when using noisy power tools. There is a wealth of information available on the internet for health and safety on a construction site, most of which is basic common sense. Our principal piece of advice is to always keep the site clean and tidy. When building a dwelling, we tend to spend more time looking ahead or upwards than down at our feet, so best to make sure nothing is left lying around that anyone could trip over. As an added bonus, a clean site is also more efficient to work in. The following are the seven steps you will need to take in the construction of your new steel-frame dwelling. For each of these sections we have provided a summary of what will be required, and each flowcode will give you access to more comprehensive, invaluable information. The right tools for the job – included in the information you will be provided when you purchase the plans for a steel-frame dwelling will be a comprehensive list of tools you will need to complete the entire construction process. However, for the frame erection stage, there is only a very short list as the main task will be to connect the individual pieces of the frame together. Make sure you have the right tools for the job as your frame is the most important part of the dwelling’s entire structure. Site preparation and laying the foundations – here we recommend you use advance of laying the foundations, so that when the foundations are laid, you will have direct connections to them all through the concrete base. Get your snaplines right – once your concrete foundations have dried, you need to mark out where the frame is going to sit. You can establish the precise location based on the position of all the connections to the utilities as you will know exactly, based on the plans, where in the dwelling each of these will be connected. The next step is to create snaplines on the concrete. These are called snaplines as it requires two of you to run a length of heavily chalked string along the concrete base where the outside of the wall frame will be. You then tighten the string, lift it up and professional contractors. First the site needs to be cleared and then surveyed in order to establish what type of foundations will be needed. Then the site is cleared, ready for the concrete base and any foundation trenches to be dug where necessary. Note that any services (water, gas, electricity and drainage) need to be installed in
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allow it to snap back into place – leaving a nice clear and straight line of chalk on the concrete. This needs to be done for all external wall frames and it is important to ensure that all lines are at 90 degrees (a right angle) to each other. Taking delivery of the steel frame – all the wall frames, beams, trusses and joists will arrive on the back of a lorry. As you unload them, check that everything is in the right order. In theory, the last thing to come off the lorry should be the first piece you will use when you start the construction process. In simple terms, you want all the pieces stacked sequentially to match the order of installation. Get on the phone and invite a load of (capable) friends round to a frame construction party. Four or five people will be enough depending on the overall size of the frame, and this is a great way to make building your new home even more memorable and enjoyable.
Installing wall panels – If you’ve got your snaplines right, installing and connecting all the wall panels together could not be easier or more straightforward.
Cross bracing – cross bracing is installed to provide extra stability to keep the panels square to each other, and to stop them from racking.
Installing the trusses – once your wall panels are in place, you are now ready to install the roof trusses. Depending on their size, you may be able to manually lift them into place, but for larger and heavier trusses, mechanical machinery will be needed. Time for an impromptu barbecue and a celebratory drink of something fizzy! Once you have watched the videos that show how simple and rapid it is to erect a steel skeleton, you should feel confident that you definitely have the DIY skills to build your own home.
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