BARSE LONA BARCE LONA
DINE&WINE
Lisabon ima jedan desert koji je postao gradski simbol – pastel de nata. Mali tart od lisnatog testa, punjen kremom od jaja i mleka, peče se dok površina ne dobije tamne tačkice i miris karamele. Najbolji je kada je još topao, uz malo ci- meta. Njegova priča vodi do manastir- skih kuhinja, gde su se žumanca kori- stila za slatkiše, a recept je vremenom postao nacionalno blago. U Lisabonu ćete ga videti svuda, ali razlika između prosečnog i odličnog je ogromna. Gde probati : „Pastéis de Belém“ (če- tvrt Belem)
KREMA KATALANA
CREMA CATALANA
Ovo je katalonski odgovor na krem brule: mlečna krema kuvana sa limu- novom koricom i cimetom, sa tan- kim slojem karamelisanog šećera ko- ji puca pod kašikom. Manje je teška i masna od francuske verzije, aroma- tičnija je i često deluje kao desert ko- ji se jede bez griže savesti. U Barse- loni je uglavnom nude kao završnicu ručka u tradicionalnim restoranima, i to je jedna od onih stvari koje je bo- lje probati u lokalnoj varijanti nego u modernim reinterpretacijama. Gde probati : restorani u četvrtima El Born i Ejšample
This dessert is the Catalonian answer to crème brûlée: milk cream cooked with lemon zest and cinnamon, with a thin layer of caramelised sugar that cracks under the spoon. Lighter and less fatty than the French version, it is more aromatic and often feels like a guilt-free dessert. Most commonly of- fered at Barcelona’s traditional res- taurants as a dessert course for lunch, it is one of those specialities that’s better as a local version than a mod- ern reinterpretation. Where to try: restaurants of the El Born and Eixample districts
PASTEL DE NATA
L I SABON L I SBON
PASTEL DE NATA
BAKLAVA
I STANBUL I STANBU L
BAKLAVA
Lisbon has one dessert that has be- come a symbol of the city: pastel de na- ta. This small custard tart is made with puff pastry and baked until dark “dots” emerge on the custard topping and it starts smelling like caramel. It’s best eat- en while still warm, seasoned with a lit- tle cinnamon. The story of this dessert takes us back to monastery kitchens, where egg yolks were used to make sweets, only for the recipe to ultimate- ly become a veritable national treasure. You’ll come across it everywhere in Lis- bon, though there’s a huge difference be- tween average and wonderful versions. Where to try: Pastéis de Belém (Belém quarter)
U Istanbulu to nije tek kolač. Pra- vi se od tankih kora, punjenja od pistaća ili oraha i sirupa, ali ono što razlikuje dobru od loše bakla- ve jeste balans: mora biti hrska- va, ali ne suva; slatka, ali ne teš- ka. Najcenjenije verzije prave se sa pistaćima iz Gazijantepa, a u dobrim radnjama baklava se se- če precizno kao nakit. Istanbul je idealno mesto da se proba prava verzija, bez industrijskog ukusa i previše sirupa. Gde probati: specijalizovane ba- klavdžinice u Karakoju i Bešiktašu
This is much more than a cake in Is- tanbul. Made with wafer-thin phyl- lo pastry, a pistachio or walnut filling and sugary syrup, good baklava distin- guishes itself by being well balanced: it must be crunchy, but not dry; sweet, but not heavy. The best versions are made using pistachios from Gaziantep, and good traders cut and weigh their baklava as precisely as jewellery. Is- tanbul is the ideal place to try genuine versions, without the taste of industri- al processes and excessive syrup. Where to try: specialised bakeries of the Karaköy and Beşiktaş districts
94 | Deserti » Desserts
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