COAST MAGAZINE SPRING 2023
YELLOWSTONE AND BEYOND EIGHT GREAT NATIONAL PARK SCENIC DRIVES
BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK
SPRING DESTINATIONS
Ponderosa Falls Resort Cheney, Washington
Eagles Landing Resort Grove, Oklahoma
Bass Lake Resort Parish, New York
CONTENTS
TRAVEL 9 YELLOWSTONE AND BEYOND Geysers, Bison, Waterfalls, Cowboys, and Native Americans Story and Photos by Richard Varr
CHAIRMAN OF CAMPING WORLD HOLDINGS Marcus Lemonis CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Matthew Wagner SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF GOOD SAM & LOYALTY Will Colling COAST TO COAST PRESIDENT Bruce Hoster CCRPresident@coastresorts.com MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristin Moser EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Dee Whited ART DIRECTOR Aubry Meyer BUSINESS MANAGER Christina Din MARKETING COORDINATOR MaryEllen Foster COAST MEMBER SERVICES 64 Inverness Drive East Englewood, Colorado 80112 800-368-5721 info@coastresorts.com COAST TO COAST WEBSITE CoastResorts.com
15 EIGHT GREAT NATIONAL PARK SCENIC DRIVES Slow down, the views are spectacular By Dave G. Houser 24 HOODOO, YOU DO Visit Bryce Canyon National Park By Dee Whited Photos courtesy of the National Park Service
COAST FACEBOOK PAGE Facebook.com/CoastResorts
VOLUME 42, NUMBER 2. Coast to Coast (ISSN 1093-3581) is published quarterly for $14 per year as part of annual membership fees, by Coast to Coast Resorts, 64 Inverness Drive E., Englewood, Colorado 80112. Coast to Coast Resorts assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manu scripts or artwork. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any method without prior written consent of the publisher. ©2023 Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. Coast wing logo is a registered trademark of Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. The GOOD SAM ICON, and Dream. Plan. Go. are registered trademarks of Good Sam Enterprises, LLC and used with permission. Unauthorized use of Coast’s or Good Sam’s trademarks is expressly prohibited. All rights reserved. PRINTED IN THE USA. COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE CTC62984 - 0223
DEPARTMENTS 5 RESORT UPDATES 30 RV REVIEW
RESORT PROFILES 6 BASS LAKE RESORT Parish, New York 7 PONDEROSA FALLS RESORT Cheney, Washington 8 EAGLES LANDING RESORT Grove, Oklahoma
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“ IF YOU’RE NOT HAPPY, I’M NOT HAPPY. ” "If you're happy, I'm happy."
Need anything? I’m here to help. CALL MY OFFICE 866.232.8790 or Email me at MarcusVIP@goodsam.com Call my office 866-232-8790 or email me at MarcusVIP@goodsam.com I'm here to help.
Marcus Lemonis Chairman and CEO
Marcus Lemonis Chairman and CEO Camping World and Good Sam
Camping World and Good Sam
CTC60136 - 0221
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RESORT UPDATES The 2023 Coast to Coast Resort Directory is packed with everything you need to navigate the network of Coast to Coast Resorts and Coast Good Neighbor Parks. To keep members up-to-date, each issue of Coast magazine includes any updates that have occurred since the last issue.
DELUXE RESORT TERMINATIONS
DELUXE RESORT UPDATES
Georgia Yonah Mountain Camping Resort, Cleveland (page 125)
Texas Marina Village Resort, Trinity (page 162) New email address: info@marina-village.com
NEW DELUXE RESORT
GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK TERMINATIONS
New Mexico Taos RV Park, 1802 Paseo del Pueblos Sur, Ranchos de Taos, 87557. Phone (575) 425-1690, email hello@taosrvpark.com, website www.taosrvpark.com. RV notations: When towing a vehicle, you must unhook after check- in before going to site due to hilly terrain. Coast rate not honored in Oct during Balloon Fest. June is in high demand, make reservation as early as possible. Rate includes 2 people. Additional charges: Resort fee $25/night, utility fee $6/night. After hours check-in box. Internet access in clubhouse, Wi-Fi access in lower level sites only. Season: Year round.
Arizona Horspitality RV Resort, Wickenburg (page 186) Montana Bozeman Trail Campground, Bozeman (page 196) Glacier Peaks RV Park, Columbia Falls (page 196) Mountain View RV Park, Columbia Falls (page 196) Osen’s RV Park, Livingston (page 197)
NEW GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK
Arizona Meadview RV Park & Cozy Cabins,
28100 N Pierce Ferry Rd, Meadville, 86444. Phone (928) 564-2662, email rvpark@citlink. net, website www.rv-park.com. RV notations: 2023 Coast rate $29.70 - $32.40. Rate includes
2 adults and full hook-ups. Additional charges: tax 5.5%. Season: Year round.
GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK UPDATES
Arizona Caravan Oasis Resort, Yuma (page 186) New website address: www.caravanoasisrv.com Georgia Lake Pines RV Park, Columbus (page 190) New phone number: 706-561-9675
RESORT UPDATES
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RESORT TYPE: Premier LOCATION: Parish, New York SEASON: May 1 – October 10 WEBSITE: www.travelresorts.com
Bass Lake Resort is a unique campground offering the perfect combination of modern- day amenities and RV camping in natural surroundings. With more than 25 acres of lake, hundreds of campsites, plus cabin accommodations, you’ll have plenty of space to wander and enjoy all that nature has to offer at this 244-acre resort. After check-in and set up at your spacious RV site, you’ll have time to explore. Start by visiting one of the two clubhouses. After traveling, maybe the best thing for you to do is take a dip in one of the two crystal-clear swimming pools. Try the slide and feel like a kid again. There’s plenty of opportunity to learn or perfect your game at the many sports areas including a playground, miniature golf, horseshoes, outdoor courts, and basketball. Take your gaming inside and play pool, pick up a card game in the recreation room or learn new games in the arcade. Try hiking or biking on the many nature trails. From your home base, you can hike in BASS LAKE RESORT Two-hundred forty-four acres adjacent to Bass Lake
beautiful state parks or visit events, festivals, or historic buildings and museums. If you’ve forgotten that special ingredient for a recipe, shop at the camp store, or take off your apron and treat yourself to the onsite bar and restaurant. Plus, right around the corner from the campground are plenty of activities and dining options. The 25-acre Bass Lake is another opportunity to enjoy water sports and is ideal for fishing, boating, or just relaxing. And, as the name suggests, pack your fishing equipment. The resort is located just 30 minutes north of Syracuse and 40 minutes south of Watertown. Bass Lake Resort is easily accessible by New York Interstates 90 and 81, making short getaways possible even during a busy week. You’ll feel safe once inside the gated entrance. And your four-legged friend hasn’t been forgotten. Give them a good run at the resort’s dog park.
RESORT PROFILES
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RESORT TYPE: Deluxe LOCATION: Cheney, Washington SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: kmresorts.com
PONDEROSA FALLS RESORT Ten minutes from Spokane on beautiful forested grounds
Located just off I-90 in Cheney, Washington, Ponderosa Falls Resort is one of the top campground resorts near Spokane for a reason. Yes, location is part of it. It’s easy to unhitch the car and take an excursion into the big city. A gondola skyride above the raging Spokane river is just an exit or two away. And the best shopping on the sunny side of Washington State awaits in downtown Spokane just 10 minutes away. The sunny side of the state gives you ample weather to take part in all the resort has to offer. The whole family can take advantage of the beautiful indoor pool and spa. Let the kids wear themselves out at the kiddie’s lagoon. Meet old and new friends in the workout room, sports court, or while playing sand volleyball. A busy activities team creates and carries out plenty of planned activities for the whole family including mini-golf. Check the website to see a complete list of activities at this four-season resort.
In addition to spacious full hook-up campsites there’s 30- to 50-amp electrical and Wi-Fi. If you traveled without your rig, check into one of five bungalows and seven cabins. Downtown Cheney is the region’s gateway to the Columbia Plateau Trail and the Fish Lake Trail, both of which explore the unique geology of the Great Ice Age Floods. For hiking or biking, check out the Centennial Trail, which is a 31.3-mile point-to-point trail located near Snohomish. It features a lake and is good for all skill levels. The trail offers a number of activity options and is accessible year-round. Also nearby, visit Riverfront Park, which is a former World’s Fair site. Go ziplining at Mica Moon Zip Tours and visit the John A. Finch Arboretum located in southwest Spokane on 65 acres of wooded hills. While in Spokane be sure to see lovely Spokane Falls. Close by in western Idaho you can visit two very scenic lakes, Lake Coeur d’Alene and Lake Pend Oreille.
RESORT PROFILES
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RESORT TYPE: Classic LOCATION: Grove, Oklahoma SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: eaglesresortok.com
EAGLES LANDING RESORT On the shores of Grand Lake O’ the Cherokees
Eagles Landing Resort is located on Grand Lake O’ the Cherokees, which covers 46,500 acres with a lot to offer. There are five state parks around the winding, scenic shoreline, as well as many privately operated commercial marinas, restaurants, and fishing guides. Native fish species found in the lake include large-mouth bass, white bass, channel catfish, crappie, and bluegill. But there are plenty of amenities onsite at this beautiful resort. These include an 18-hole mini- golf course, horseshoes, playground, pickle-ball court, soccer, canoes, and kayaking. Relax at the koi pond. Forget something? Replenish supplies at the country store. Eagles Landing Resort also boasts the largest beach entry pool in eastern Oklahoma. Get your exercise by biking and hiking. From Eagles Landing, campers are treated to an enchanting view of the lighted 2,548-foot-long, 29-foot-wide, two-lane “Sailboat Bridge.” The bridge deck curves upward in a parabolic arch
about 40 feet higher at the center than at the ends. Tall sailboats can pass underneath. In 1939 the design received national recognition from the American Institute of Steel Construction. Catch the big one at the fishing pond and use the heated fishing dock and fish cleaning station for your catch. Pull your boat into one of the boat slips and use the ramp to put in. You can also store your boat or your RV at the resort. Live the resort life in the recently remodeled cabins. Pick between one-bedroom cabins, two- bedroom cabins, and a suite cabin, or hook up with the range of RV sites which include pull- through sites, full hook-up sites, and nearly 100 lakefront sites Under new ownership, the owners have upgraded the property and have a great team waiting to welcome your family. The remodeled cabins are a home away from home for guests and their visitors.
RESORT PROFILES
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YELLOWSTONE AND BEYOND
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Yellowstone and Beyond Geysers, Bison, Waterfalls, Cowboys, and Native Americans Story and Photos by Richard Varr
behemoth that hasn’t had a major eruption in about 640,000 years. Hissing fumaroles and craters emitting smelly sulfur gas dot the park’s thermal basins, many with sporadically erupting geysers. Boiling pools gurgle, some with their Caribbean blue hues looking like enticing hot baths. Water runoff creates swirls of mineral colors like an artist’s palette on rocky surfaces. And no visit would be complete without seeing the mother of all geysers, “Old Faithful,” erupt at least once. Yellowstone is where waterfalls tumble down mountain ravines and where bison and elk roam grassy river valleys. Bears, coyotes, wolves, and even mountain lions are harder to spot, but they’re also within the park’s nearly 3,500 square miles, larger than Delaware and Rhode Island combined. Sunset casts long shadows across Yellowstone Lake as waning sunbeams illuminate the windblown water with deep blue hues. Trying to see all or most of Yellowstone in one visit—or even several—is simply impossible. Visitors could spend days and even weeks hiking just some of the more than 900 miles of trails or walking the 15 miles of boardwalks atop thermal basins. Roadways stretch 251 miles, including the North Loop and South Loop and the roads connecting them to five entrance gates. The world’s first national park, Yellowstone celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2022 —a momentous yet bittersweet milestone. Crowds swelled in the spring, only to drop off dramatically in mid June when up to 9.5 inches of combined rain and snowmelt within 24 hours flooded northern areas—a 500-year flood event, according to the National Park Service. The deluge washed away sections of the North Entrance roadway and damaged infrastructure, closing the park for nine days. By summer’s end, however, most of the park had resumed normal operations. (Editor’s note: Feature was held until Yellowstone recovered.)
I’m walking up a curving boardwalk when I’m suddenly jolted with a pang of fear. Before me stands a lone bison—motionless, but still imposing—next to a steaming mudpot. Perhaps the animal is enjoying the warmth of the so- called Mud Volcano’s thermal crater, maybe mesmerized by the low drone of choking sounds and gurgles. Luckily, the boardwalk’s wooden fence separates me and other curious onlookers from the beast as I recall seeing posted warnings to not approach bison, which can become dangerous if they feel threatened. Nonetheless, serendipity grants me a great photo opportunity—yet, a bit closer than I had ever expected. Mud Volcano, with its surrounding rock ledges streaked with chalky white mineral deposits and bands of sulfur, is just one of Yellowstone National Park’s 10,000 or so thermal wonders, all fueled by the supervolcano that lies beneath—a
Bison at Mud Volcano area.
West Thumb Geyser Basin boardwalk, looking out to Yellowstone Lake.
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From the East Entrance, it’s a 27-mile drive to reach the South Loop, where I head north and stop at Mud Volcano, mentioned earlier, and then to an overlook with views of the steaming pools of Sulphur Caldron, one of the park’s most acidic hot springs. The road parallels the Yellowstone River, which runs through grassy Hayden Valley where bison roam. I drive into a traffic jam of sorts with cars moving slowly and pulling into parking lots as visitors find the best viewing spots. At one point, a bison lazily walks in front of my car and stops. So, I wait and wait, until the animal decides to finally amble onward. At Canyon Village, I reach one of the most breathtaking highlights of my visit—the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its two dramatic waterfalls, the Lower Falls and Upper Falls, crashing down within the spectacular mountainous river valley. South Rim Drive leads to the Artist Point lookout, called that because it’s the viewpoint painter Thomas Moran used for his 1872 masterpiece—now hanging in the Smithsonian—of the deep canyon and tumbling 308-foot-high Lower Falls. North Rim Drive leads to the “Brink of the Lower Falls,” the point where the river tumbles into the valley below. The hike
down to the brink is less than a half mile along a descending curving pathway, where the falls’ roar seemingly grows louder with every step. Continuing on the 12-mile stretch of road where the South Loop and North Loop intersect, my next stop is the Norris Geyser Basin. The area sits atop three fault lines, thus fueling the hottest thermal activity in the park. Boardwalks weave around the steaming pools and fumaroles of the Porcelain Basin, a mostly treeless and flat expanse of land with a dramatic view from the entrance area. The Back Basin Trail meanders through woods with geyser holes and craters along its path. At the far end, the Steamboat Geyser shoots the tallest spray in the world, more than 300 feet, but actually being there for one of the rare eruptions would be a stroke of luck. My next stop is Old Faithful Village, which for many visitors is Yellowstone’s main attraction. It includes the Old Faithful Inn, Lodge, Snow Lodge, and Visitor Center, but the legendary geyser usually steals the show with eruptions well over 100 feet high every one to two hours. A short hike along the Upper Geyser Basin reveals many of that area’s hissing and smelly thermal
West Thumb Geyser Basin mudpots or paintpots.
Upper Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
West Thumb Geyser Basin thermal pool.
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Buffalo Bill statue outside the Buffalo Bill Center of the West.
West Thumb Geyser Basin mudpots or paintpots.
CODY, WYOMING Just 53 miles east of Yellowstone’s East Entrance along US 14-16-20, called the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway, the town of Cody is an affordable launching point to the national park. The highway follows along the meandering path of the North Fork of the Shoshone River, carving through parts of the Absaroka Range’s jagged peaks and sloping mountains, with some of the dramatic rock formations almost looking like giant stone cathedrals with spires. Before entering Cody, I drive along Buffalo Bill Reservoir and State Park against a backdrop of mountains for several miles. The highlight here, however, is the Buffalo Bill Dam and Visitor Center where the monstrous water retention wall reminds me of the Hoover Dam. In fact, this dam was the biggest one in the U.S. before the Hoover Dam was built. Cody was actually founded in part by William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, the legendary Wild West icon, and it seems his presence still remains. A bronze statue of the gunman, soldier, Indian fighter, and buffalo hunter, with his thick goatee and long hair, clutches a rifle outside the Irma Hotel, built by Cody in 1902 and named after his daughter. Inside the hotel, photos of gunslingers hang on the walls of the popular restaurant with an original cherrywood bar gifted to William Cody by England’s Queen Victoria. “Buffalo Bill was the most famous man in the world for years, so he had connections from all over,” says Ryan Hauck, Executive Director of Cody Yellowstone and the Park County Travel Council. And many say the hotel is haunted.
holes—the more than 150 of them within a square mile making this area the world’s most densely packed geyser region. Boardwalks along the Upper Geyser Basin weave around pools, fumaroles, mud pots and craters with names such as the Blue Star Spring and Sulphide Spring, and the Plume and Beehive geyser spouts, many with mineral encrusted rings. Grand Geyser erupts every eight or so hours with water spouting up to 180 feet. At the end of the walking path, the thermal waters’ bacterial life creates orange, green and yellow rings within the Morning Glory Pool. Making nearly a full circle around the South Loop, I reach the West Thumb Geyser Basin, particularly worth a visit to see the muted aquamarine tints of the bubbling pools, some chalky and milky, while others sparkle clear to the bottom. The basin skirts the shores of Yellowstone Lake, with close-up views of a few thermal holes bubbling out of stone bases in the water.
Old Faithful erupting.
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“Some cowboys getting drunk downstairs started shooting around and shot upwards, and shot a lady in this room,” says Hauck as he leads me through the hotel guest floors. “So, a lot of people say they’ve seen the lady’s ghost walking around in that room.” Cody’s world-class Buffalo Bill Center of the West, which actually includes five museums, showcases Buffalo Bill’s life in the military and his series of early 20th-century Wild West shows that captivated audiences all over the country and Europe. Yet the shows included actual Native Americans as actors as skirmishes continued as a result of westward expansion. The Center’s Buffalo Bill Museum plays looping grainy film clips from some of those shows, including cowboys marching in New York City, skits of Indians attacking a stage coach and Custer’s Last Stand, shooting matches and trained horses demonstrations. In fact, Sioux warrior Sitting Bull, who defeated General Custer at the infamous Battle of Little Big Horn, joined the show years later. “In my opinion, Buffalo Bill was really the first national celebrity in America,” asserts Jeremy Johnston, the Tate Endowed Chair of Western History and Curator of the Buffalo Bill Museum, explaining how his shows helped shape the way the Wild West is portrayed in movies and on TV. “He was able to combine elements of authenticity with dramatic presentations that have not been replicated by any performer before or since his time.”
Along with his Remington rifle and Bowie knife, one display case has Cody’s flamboyant buffalo hide coat with fur trim and tassels which he wore on stage. Another showcases his 1872 Congressional Medal of Honor received after fighting a Sioux Indian attack against the Third Cavalry he once guided. There’s also a saddle used by Pres. Teddy Roosevelt, and Wild Bill Hickok’s holster and Colt pistol. Gun and history enthusiasts will enjoy the Buffalo Bill Center of the West’s Cody Firearms Museum, the most comprehensive such museum in the country, with more than 4,000 well-preserved pistols and rifles. The Center’s other museums include the Plains Indian Museum, with such artifacts as Sitting Bull’s tomahawk that he surrendered in 1881, two years before relocation to the Sioux Reservation. Western landscapes and the dramatic 1899 wall-size painting of Custer’s Last Stand caught my eye in the Whitney Western Art Museum. And the kids will enjoy the exhibits of stuffed bears, elk, and other wildlife at the Draper Museum of Natural History, with an additional focus on the ecosystems of Yellowstone National Park.
Portraits of Buffalo Bill at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West.
The Irma Hotel’s cherrywood bar which was gifted to Buffalo Bill by England’s Queen Victoria.
Buffalo Bill’s buffalo hide coat in the Buffalo Bill Center of the West.
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Yet no place in Cody reminds me of the Wild West more than Old Trail Town with its collection of authentic and refurbished log cabins from the late 19th century. Relocated from Wyoming towns, they include the 1888 River’s Saloon with its full wooden bar and gaudy red wallpaper for example, and the 1885 Bonanza Post Office. My favorite is the 1883 Hole in the Wall Cabin with its bullet holes, and where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid once walked on its creaking wooden floors. A graveyard around back includes the final resting place of trapper and soldier John Johnston played by Robert Redford in the 1972 movie Jeremiah Johnson. On the outskirts of town, the Heart Mountain Relocation Center showcases a sad chapter in U.S. history on the grounds of what was one of the several internment camps for Japanese- Americans during World War II. Named for the nearby 8,123-foot-high eponymous block-like mountain peak, the center details how a total of 14,000 were forced to live in rows of barracks from 1942-1945. Only a few dilapidated original barracks remain today.
Cathedral-like rock formations east of Yellowstone’s East Entrance along US 14-16-20.
AND BEYOND On the way to Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance, seeing the twisting roads and vast mountain ranges make a great day trip along Highway 296 known as the 46-mile-long Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. A half-hour drive southeast of Cody leads to the tiny drive-through town of Meeteetse with its three museums, including a landmark 1901 bank building. The Meeteetse Chocolatier shop was once an old saloon, but now lures visitors with its truffles and Belgian chocolates. Another hour drive beyond Meeteetse leads to Thermopolis which in Greek means “hot city,” appropriately named because the town’s Hot Springs State Park and Star Plunge Pool attraction are heated by geothermal waters. Thermopolis is also home of the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, one of the few dinosaur museums in the world to have an excavation site within a short drive.
Old Trail Town cabins, Cody.
For more information: https://www.nps.gov/yell www.codyyellowstone.org
Hole in the Wall Cabin at Old Trail Town, Cody.
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EIGHT GREAT NATIONAL PARK SCENIC DRIVES
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Eight Great National Park Scenic Drives Slow down, the views are spectacular By Dave G. Houser Photos courtesy of the National Park Service and Nova Scotia Tourism
National parks aren’t just for campers and hikers. In fact, many U.S. and Canadian national parks are best seen from your car—so you can readily appreciate the awesome scale, diverse beauty, timelessness, and untamed spirit of Mother Nature’s wonders. That’s not to imply that you shouldn’t get out and breathe some fresh air, smell the flowers, capture some photos, or take a hike. But if time is limited (as it is for many of us) or you are still leery of Covid or the flu, the safest and most comfortable way to get an overview of the wilderness and wildlife is a scenic drive trip. Before you go, remember to check the car or RV to be sure it’s fully serviced, including tire pressures and fluid levels. National parks are often in remote areas where services are few and far between. That includes cell and Wi-Fi service, so it would be a good idea to download some directions and routing info to your phone, tablet, or laptop in advance of your trip. There are no Golden Arches in the parks (thank goodness) so it would be a good idea as well to pack some snacks, water, and perhaps some picnic supplies.
We’ve hand-picked eight unforgettable byways from Death Valley to Canada’s Cape Breton Highlands National Park to help inspire your next road trip.
Death Valley Scenic Byway, Death Valley National Park, California & Nevada
Death Valley is well known for its spectacular mountains, shimmering salt flats, rainbow- colored ravines, rich history and, of course, its extreme temperatures. The park’s elevation changes are also extreme, ranging from 282 feet below sea level at Badwater Basin (the nation’s low point) to 11,049 feet at the top of Telescope Peak. The scenic byway follows Hwy 190 through the center of the park, with entry points on the west side from the town of Olancha (convenient from Los Angeles) and on the east side at Death Valley Junction (convenient from Las Vegas). Driving from east to west, here are some of the park’s not-to-be-missed attractions: Heading toward Panamint Springs, your first stop should be Father Crowley Vista Point, where a short hike leads to Rainbow Canyon. In addition to
Map by William Tipton
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a gorgeous view, you might see military jets making practice runs through what they call “Star Wars Canyon.” At Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes you can make an easy 2-mile hike along the largest dune field in the park. Just beyond the dunes is the Salt Creek Interpretive Trail, a wooden boardwalk that leads through a salt marsh habitat for a rare species of pupfish. Zabriskie Point, just a quarter mile off Hwy 190, features a spectacular panorama of golden-colored badlands that are especially beautiful at sunrise and sunset. An element of the park’s history can be explored at the Harmony Borax Works, where processing ruins and an original 20-mule team wagon remind visitors that the mineral used as a household cleaner was once the most profitable resource mined in the park. The nearby Furnace Creek Visitor Center offers park information, restrooms and refreshments. Saving the best until last, we’ll take a short but sweet 9-mile loop around Artists Drive. This cluster of rainbow-colored hills features rocks in striking shades of greens, oranges, reds, and pinks that are most dramatic just before dusk. Vehicles exceeding 25 feet in length are prohibited due to sharp turns.
One of the most remote, rugged and least-visited of America’s 63 nationals parks, North Cascades National Park offers plenty of backcountry camping possibilities.
Washington’s North Cascades National Park is home to more than 300 glaciers, many of which are popular among backcountry hikers and skiers.
North Cascades Highway, North Cascades National Park, Washington
North Cascade Highway traverses North Cascades National Park—one of the most remote, rugged and least visited national parks in the contiguous United States. Located about three hours east of Seattle, the 30-mile highway (SR 20) takes roughly an hour to drive, in one direction only, east to west. It offers stunning views of rocky snowcapped peaks, roaring waterfalls, and icy alpine glaciers. The park is home to more than 300 glaciers. Requisite stops include the park’s visitor center, just past Goodall Creek Campground, where you can obtain maps and park information, George Creek Falls, a 242-foot-tall waterfall best viewed from a pedestrian walkway, and the Happy Creek Forest Walk, a short, comforting stroll through a serene old-growth forest. Farther along, the overlook at Diablo Lake provides panoramic views of the ice-blue glacial lake, as well as trail access to view Ross Lake, the Davis Peaks, and Jack Mountain.
For more information: https://www.nps.gov/deva 760-786-3200
North Cascades Highway reveals stunning views of glacier-carved valleys and rocky snow-capped peaks.
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North Cascades National Park is comprised of some of the wildest areas in the nation and its rugged mountains provide perfect habitat for a variety of wildlife, especially large mammals such as black and grizzly bear, mountain lion, gray wolf, elk, moose, mountain goat, and bighorn sheep. A trip through the park often reveals at least some of these critters. The North Cascades Highway is closed in the winter due to avalanches—and its spring opening depends upon the length of time it takes Washington’s DOT crews to clear the snow—so you’d best check on road conditions if planning a trip before June 1.
The main attraction at Arizona’s Petrified Forest National Park is, of course, the vast array of ancient logs and slabs of petrified wood scattered across the park.
For more information: https://www.nps.gov/noca 360-854-7200
Petrified Forest Drive, Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona Grand Canyon may be the king of Arizona national parks, but astute visitors to the state will find some equally fantastic natural wonders— minus the overwhelming crowds—at Petrified Forest National Park. With an entrance directly off Interstate 40 just a few miles east of Holbrook, park access is a cinch. Within minutes you’ll be poking along Petrified Forest Road, a 28-mile scenic drive that offers literally dozens of stops and overlooks where you can take in many of the park’s most notable landmarks. Without stopping, the drive takes little more than an hour, but you could easily spend a day here. Some of the best stops include the Painted Desert Rim Trail, where a short walk leads to a historic building constructed of (what else?) petrified wood, and Tiponi Point, where there’s an arresting view of the park’s distinctive, colorfully striated topography. The main attraction here, of course, is the array of ancient logs and slabs of petrified wood
Arizona’s Petrified Forest National Park.
scattered everywhere across the park. Dating back as long as 200 million years, these logs still retain their original tree rings, but closer inspection reveals they’ve been transformed into glistening quartz crystals colored by minerals such as iron and manganese. The place is a geologist’s dreamland. Petrified Forest is one of the most pet-friendly parks in the country. Bring your leashed pet anyplace you are allowed to go except inside buildings. So, you can take Spot out on a trail—or even camp overnight with him. Visitor facilities include a bookstore, gift shop, convenience store, gas station, and a grab-and- go diner.
For more information: https://www.nps.gov/pefo 928-524-6228
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Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, Texas Big Bend is one of America’s most unique national parks. It’s among the largest of the nation’s parks, spreading more than 1,252 square miles. It also is the most remote, with no major cities, airports, or major highways anywhere near it. To be more precise, the park is 100 miles south of Interstate 10 and the town of Fort Stockton. The park also comprises the largest protected area of Chihuahuan desert in the U.S. and the park administers a 118-mile border with Mexico along the Rio Grande River. A rugged mix of mountains, desert, and river canyons, Big Bend is a geologic wonder and a backpacker’s paradise. Park elevations range from 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to nearly 8,000 feet in the Chisos Mountains. The best way to take in the staggering beauty of Big Bend is the 30-mile-long Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This paved and well-maintained road meanders between the Chisos Mountains and Burro Mesa toward the Mexican border, culminating at Santa Elena Canyon—a dramatic 1,500-foot-deep limestone canyon carved by the Rio Grande River. The canyon, which reigns as the park’s most popular feature, can be easily accessed via a short trail. But there are plenty of other impressive geological and historical sites along the way, including marvelous views at Sotol Vista and Mule Ears Viewpoint. History buffs will want to take in a couple of the roadway’s most notable historic sites—the Sam Nail Ranch and the Homer Wilson Ranch, both
Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive meanders some 30 miles through Big Bend National Park in Texas.
The Chisos Mountains rise from the Chihauhuan Desert in Big Bend National Park.
old Texas homesteads, and Castolon Historic District, a cavalry camp from the early 1900s. Castolon and the Homer Wilson Ranch are two of eight sites in the park that appear on the National Register of Historic Places. Big Bend is home to 75 species of mammals, 450 bird species, and a remarkable 1,295 species of plants.
For more information: https://www.nps.gov/bibe 432-477-2251
This ultra-wide-angle panorama emphasizes the scale of Big Bend National Park’s vast landscapes.
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Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Michigan This scenic drive along the shore of Lake Michigan is named for Pierce Stocking, an outdoorsman and lumberjack, who conceived and helped construct the byway as a way to share the beauty of Sleeping Bear Dunes with the public. The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is one of 423 units of the national park system that includes national monuments, historical and military parks, etc., in addition to 63 national parks proper. Visitors can access the scenic drive along SR 109 between the towns of Glen Haven and Empire. The 7.8-mile drive meanders through a beech and maple forest with 12 stops along the way, featuring overlooks offering vistas of turquoise- colored Glen Lake, the sand dunes, and Lake Michigan. One of the most spectacular views
Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offers panoramic views of Lake Michigan.
is from the Lake Michigan Overlook, positioned some 450 feet above the lake level. Take a short walk from parking lot #9 to best enjoy the view. Sunsets from here are outstanding. To access the dunes, Cottonwood Trail loops for 1.5 miles past wildflowers and birches. The byway closes to vehicles during the winter but remains open to foot traffic, making it a popular spot for cross-country skiers and snowshoers.
A sunset scene on Lake Michigan, viewed from Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
For more information: https://www.nps.gov/slbe 231-326-4700
Scenic sand dunes line Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Michigan.
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Skyline Drive, Shenandoah National Park, Virginia
The great state of Virginia is home to Shenandoah National Park, set among the Blue Ridge Mountains in the western region of the state. The park features quite a variety of environments including mountain peaks, forests, wetlands, and waterfalls. Running for 105 miles along the crest of the Blue Ridge, Skyline Drive offers 75 overlooks with amazing views of the Shenandoah Valley to the west and Virginia’s rolling Piedmont region to the east. Heading south, Skyline Drive connects with the Blue Ridge Parkway—so you can take in panoramic views all the way to Great Smoky Mountains National Park in Tennessee. By the way, the aptly named Blue Ridge Mountains actually do turn blue at sunrise and sunset. You’ll just have to see it to believe it. Starting at the Front Royal Entrance, you’ll reach the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center in a matter of minutes. Here you can check out park information and maps to help make plans for viewing, hiking, and refreshment stops. Keep in mind that Skyline Drive is a narrow and often steep mountain road with a posted speed limit of 35 mph. Not only is this slow pace safer for everyone, it also helps you relax and enjoy your beautiful surroundings.
A 6.7 mile hike rewards visitors with this waterfall view.
Skyline Drive is the starting point for a huge number of hiking trails (500 of them), many of which permit dogs, making Shenandoah one of the country’s most pet-friendly national parks. There are three other entrances to the drive, at Thornton Gap, Swift Run, and Rockfish Gap, the latter serving as Skyline’s southern entrance. So far as recommendations go for commercial enterprises along the Drive, we suggest a stop at Skyland (mile 41.7). This handsome stone and timber lodge offers lodging (rooms and cabins), a dining room, a taproom that features live music, a fast-food outlet, and a gift shop. Guided horseback riding trips and a variety of ranger-led programs also originate from Skyland. The drive’s South District is the longest and most remote section of the roadway, with more dense forests and fewer facilities. Recommended stops along the last 40 or so miles of the drive include Doyles River, Loft Mountain, and a 6.7-mile loop trail that encounters three waterfalls.
For more information: https://www..nps.gov/shen 540-999-3500
The Blue Ridge Mountains at sunset.
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Acadia Park Loop, Acadia National Park, Maine
Situated on Maine’s rock-strewn Mount Desert Island, Acadia Park Loop winds for 27 miles through Acadia National Park, delighting drivers with dramatic views of the rugged coastline. The Acadia Loop is fully operational from April 15 to December 1, but only a two-mile section opens in winter, with the rest serving as a designated snowmobile route. It is best to do this one-way drive when it’s open in its entirety to be certain to see the park’s most famous sites, including Thunder Hole, Sand Beach, Cadillac Mountain, and Jordan Pond. Entering at the Hull Point Visitor Center, the journey usually takes three or four hours depending on traffic, which peaks about mid- day in the busy summer season. Acadia is very popular with photographers, as well as birdwatchers, who visit in large numbers hoping to log sightings of loons, peregrines, snowy owls, cormorants, and more.
Acadia Park Loop winds for 27 miles through Acadia National Park, delighting visitors with dramatic views of Maine’s rocky coastline.
For more information: https://www..nps.gov/acad 207-288-3338
Rock-bound Jordan Pond is one of the most popular scenic attractions in Maine’s Acadia National Park.
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Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Nova Scotia, Canada With its quaint salt-tanged fishing villages, a woodsy and mountainous interior, and towering sea cliffs, Cape Breton is the scenic jewel of Nova Scotia. Complimenting the Cape’s natural beauty is its vibrant mix of Acadian and Gaelic cultures. On the Atlantic side of the Cape, towns like Ingonish preserve the influence of early Scottish settlers, while on the Gulf of St. Lawrence side, French-speaking towns such as Chèticamp still celebrate their Acadian heritage. The Cabot Trail makes a 185-mile loop around a sizeable chunk of the island of Nova Scotia, passing through Cape Breton Highlands National Park at its northernmost point. A 367-square-mile plateau cut by deep river valleys, Cape Breton is home to black bears, bald eagles, and a large number of moose—watch for them sauntering across the highway, especially at dusk. The town of Baddeck, on Bras d’Or Lake (not actually a lake but rather an estuary that teems with wildlife and has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve) is a good starting point for a
trip. Before you hit the trail, we suggest a visit to the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site in Baddeck to learn some fascinating things about the inventor of the telephone. If you are into boating, check at the Baddeck Wharf for a sailing trip on Bras d’Or Lake. From there, you can follow the Cabot Trail Loop in either direction, pausing to feast on fresh lob- ster, stay in hospitable inns, and hike your choice of 25 trails in the national park as the trail skirts the edges of the preserve, at times clinging to steep oceanside cliffs. Some of the best dining opportunities on the Trail include the purple Thistle Dining Room at the classy Keltic Lodge in Ingonish Beach, and the Rusty Anchor Restaurant in Pleasant Bay where you’ll be treated to what arguably are the tastiest lobster rolls in all of Nova Scotia. For fresh baguettes and other French pastries, drop by Aucoin Bakery in Petit Étang.
For more information: https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ns/cbreton 888-773-8888
The Cabot Trail makes a 185-mile loop around and through Nova Scotia’s scenic Cape Breton Highlands National Park.
Meat Cove Campground is one of a number of campgrounds along the 185-mile Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia.
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HOODOO, YOU DO
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Hoodoo, You Do Visit Bryce Canyon National Park By Dee Whited Photos courtesy of the National Park Service More than 40 years ago, our family arrived at the gates into Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah. After our long drive from Southern California, my husband and I were looking forward to uncovering the reported beauty of the park and capturing it on film. Even before we got out of the car, our children began giggling uncontrollably. And the source of their hilarity appeared to be something they’d read on the park map. “Hoodoo, you do,” they would repeat, followed by fits of giggles. And, as you’ll discover, there were scores of opportunities to see the myriads of hoodoos, which always resulted in more giggling. Hoodoos (irregular columns of rock) exist on every continent, but here is the largest concentration found anywhere on Earth. Lots of giggles. Bryce Canyon is a relatively small national park, but it’s beauty and breathtaking vistas pack a punch. Fortunately for millions of us who have discovered the hoodoos, others who came before us worked to create a national landmark to help preserve the region for generations to come. In the early 1900s, J. W. Humphrey, a U.S. Forest Service Supervisor, after viewing the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau wrote the following: “You can perhaps imagine my surprise at the indescribable beauty that greeted us, and it was sundown before I could be dragged from the canyon view. You may be sure that I went back the next morning to see the canyon once more, and to plan in my mind how this attraction could be made accessible to the public.” That rim is now known as Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon National Park. Humphrey didn’t just enjoy the view and keep it to himself, he immediately began a campaign to introduce more and more people to the amazing scenery. The busy supervisor had still photographs and movies of the canyon sent to Forest Service
Sunset Point view of Thor’s Hammer in the late afternoon.
Hoodoos are tall, skinny spires of rock that protrude from the bottom of arid basins and ‘broken’ lands.
officials in Washington, D. C., and to officials of the Union Pacific Railroad. Magazine and newspaper articles were written. In 1916, Humphrey secured a $50 appropriation to improve the road and make the rim accessible to automobile traffic and thus it began. Because of his tireless efforts, President Warren G. Harding proclaimed Bryce Canyon a national monument on June 8, 1923—100 years ago. On June 7, 1924, Congress passed a bill to establish Utah National Park, when all land within the national monument would become the property of the United States. On February 25, 1928, Bryce Canyon officially became a national park. We owe a lot to people such as J. W. Humphrey for discovering scenic wonders and helping to preserve them so my family and I and millions of others could be amazed and entertained by such awesome beauty. Your 2023 visit will greatly differ from the early
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visitors or even our visit decades ago. In 1919, tourists from Salt Lake City visited Bryce Canyon. Ruby and Minnie Syrett erected tents and supplied meals for overnight guests near Sunset Point. In 1920 the Syretts constructed Tourist’s Rest, a 30-by-71-foot lodge, with eight or ten nearby cabins and an open-air dance floor. In 1923, Ruby and Minnie established Ruby’s Inn just outside the park. More than two million visitors come to experience the otherworldly magic of Bryce Canyon National Park each year, most between March and early October. However long your visit, advance planning will have the greatest benefit in making the most of your time. A tour of Bryce Canyon National Park is easily doable in one day, although a longer visit will reap more scenic rewards. Hikers will especially find a longer stay more beneficial as they take advantage of the many well maintained trails. Your first visit should be to the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center. Grab driving and hiking directions, weather forecasts, a current schedule of Park Ranger-guided programs, Junior booklets, and information about services including lodging, dining, and other attractions. While at the Visitor Center see the new award winning film, “ A Song of Seasons. ” The film is 24-minutes long and plays on the hour and half hour throughout the day. Explore museum exhibits and the bookstore. Bryce Canyon has one main 18-mile road that
runs north-south through the park. Most visitors will first be looking for views of the Bryce Amphitheater, found along the first 3 miles of the road, where you’ll find the four most popular overlooks in the park: Bryce Point, Inspiration Point, Sunset Point, and Sunrise Point. These viewpoints are also trailheads for some of the parks most popular trails (e.g. both Sunset and Sunrise Points are trailheads for the popular 2.9 mile Queen’s/Navajo Combination Loop). This area is best for those visiting 1 to 3 hours. Longer visits often include a trip down the full length of the main road (known as the Southern Scenic Drive) to Rainbow Point, Natural Bridge, and other viewpoints. Visitors typically travel the full length of the road to Rainbow and Yovimpa Points and then stop at viewpoints on the way back. By far the most iconic section of the park, the Bryce Amphitheater is home to the greatest concentration of irregular rock spires (called “hoodoos”) found anywhere on Earth. Viewpoints along the first 3 miles of the main road provide access to views overlooking this area. Perhaps the most iconic of all the Bryce Amphitheater’s four major viewpoints, Bryce Point provides a soaring view of the park’s most popular area. Along with Bryce Point, Inspiration Point provides a birds-eye view of the world’s largest collection of hoodoos found within the Bryce Amphitheater. Nowhere are the colors of Bryce Canyon’s rock better displayed than from
Bryce Point at sunrise. Credit Brian B. Roanhorse, NPS.
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lowlands below and stay cooler during hot summers. The relatively lush ecosystems that result are like fertile islands towering above a vast arid landscape. In addition to hoodoos, mammals you may see include chipmunks, squirrels, prairie dogs, mountain lions, pronghorn sheep, coyotes, gray foxes, bats, mice, mule deer, and many more. The three most common birds found in the park are the Peregrine Falcon, California Condor and the Clark’s Nutcracker. Trust me, no self-respecting bird-watcher would turn down an opportunity to see any of those. For those interested in history, Bryce Canyon has its own unique life. A recent archaeological survey of Bryce Canyon National Park and the Paunsaugunt Plateau shows that people have been marveling at Bryce’s hoodoos for at least 10,000 years. It is suspected that throughout history, just as today, most people were just passing through.
Paunsaugunt Plateau edge seen from Under the Rim Trail. Credit Peter Densmore, NPS.
Sunset Point. Sunrise Point is the northernmost of the four major viewpoints that overlook the iconic Bryce Amphitheater. While the Bryce Amphitheater area is found along its first 3 miles, the next 15 miles to the road’s end are known as the Southern Scenic Drive. Along this section of the main road are 9 scenic overlooks that display a lesser-seen beauty of Bryce Canyon. Although driving the main road is the fastest way to see the park, Bryce Canyon offers several day-hiking trails. Because many of these are interconnected, the most popular hikes are combinations of two or more of these basic trails. Most day hikes and their trailheads are found in the Bryce Amphitheater area. Which trail is right for you? All trails offer a unique view of the beauty of this park, but the park’s high elevation means that length and elevation change should be the first variables you consider when choosing a hike. The National Park Service website for Bryce Canyon National Park has great advice and also introduces you to hikes ranging from easy, to moderate, to strenuous, Check it out at www. nps.gov/brca/planyourvisit/day-hikes.htm While driving or hiking, you may see some of the local flora and fauna. Bryce Canyon is known for its incredible geology and sweeping vistas, but equally impressive are the plants and animals that make the uplifted plateaus of Utah such a unique environment. Surrounded by deserts, these highlands get much more rain than the
Pronghorn doe and fawns (Antilocapra americana), the fastest land animal in North America, able to reach 60 miles per hour.
Golden-mantled ground squirrel.
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