Yellowstone and Beyond Geysers, Bison, Waterfalls, Cowboys, and Native Americans Story and Photos by Richard Varr
behemoth that hasn’t had a major eruption in about 640,000 years. Hissing fumaroles and craters emitting smelly sulfur gas dot the park’s thermal basins, many with sporadically erupting geysers. Boiling pools gurgle, some with their Caribbean blue hues looking like enticing hot baths. Water runoff creates swirls of mineral colors like an artist’s palette on rocky surfaces. And no visit would be complete without seeing the mother of all geysers, “Old Faithful,” erupt at least once. Yellowstone is where waterfalls tumble down mountain ravines and where bison and elk roam grassy river valleys. Bears, coyotes, wolves, and even mountain lions are harder to spot, but they’re also within the park’s nearly 3,500 square miles, larger than Delaware and Rhode Island combined. Sunset casts long shadows across Yellowstone Lake as waning sunbeams illuminate the windblown water with deep blue hues. Trying to see all or most of Yellowstone in one visit—or even several—is simply impossible. Visitors could spend days and even weeks hiking just some of the more than 900 miles of trails or walking the 15 miles of boardwalks atop thermal basins. Roadways stretch 251 miles, including the North Loop and South Loop and the roads connecting them to five entrance gates. The world’s first national park, Yellowstone celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2022 —a momentous yet bittersweet milestone. Crowds swelled in the spring, only to drop off dramatically in mid June when up to 9.5 inches of combined rain and snowmelt within 24 hours flooded northern areas—a 500-year flood event, according to the National Park Service. The deluge washed away sections of the North Entrance roadway and damaged infrastructure, closing the park for nine days. By summer’s end, however, most of the park had resumed normal operations. (Editor’s note: Feature was held until Yellowstone recovered.)
I’m walking up a curving boardwalk when I’m suddenly jolted with a pang of fear. Before me stands a lone bison—motionless, but still imposing—next to a steaming mudpot. Perhaps the animal is enjoying the warmth of the so- called Mud Volcano’s thermal crater, maybe mesmerized by the low drone of choking sounds and gurgles. Luckily, the boardwalk’s wooden fence separates me and other curious onlookers from the beast as I recall seeing posted warnings to not approach bison, which can become dangerous if they feel threatened. Nonetheless, serendipity grants me a great photo opportunity—yet, a bit closer than I had ever expected. Mud Volcano, with its surrounding rock ledges streaked with chalky white mineral deposits and bands of sulfur, is just one of Yellowstone National Park’s 10,000 or so thermal wonders, all fueled by the supervolcano that lies beneath—a
Bison at Mud Volcano area.
West Thumb Geyser Basin boardwalk, looking out to Yellowstone Lake.
YELLOWSTONE AND BEYOND
COAST TO COAST MAGAZINE SPRING 2023 | 10
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