IN THE KITCHEN
WITH JOHN ASH
Singing a different tuna! Tuna burgers with sriracha mayonnaise—handle with care… T he key to success with tuna burgers is to handle the fish carefully and don’t over season, over handle or overcook it. You can grill these burgers (preferably using a hinged grill rack or a grill screen) but searing them on the stove top gives you more control over the level of the heat. And it’s a good idea to chop the tuna by hand, as using a food processor can over-process it. You can top these with whatever burger garnishes you like, such as lettuce or sliced tomatoes. u
To make the mayonnaise, in a small bowl combine all the ingredients and stir to blend well. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Using a sharp knife, cut the tuna into 1/4-inch dice. In a medium bowl, combine the tuna, cilantro, green onion, panko (if using), ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and pepper. Stir gently, just until blended; do not overmix. Divide the mixture into four parts and gently press into patties about 3/4 inch thick. Cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. In a large skillet, heat the canola oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the burgers and cook, turning once, until nicely browned on both sides, about 4 minutes total for medium-rare. Spread the buns with the sriracha mayonnaise, add the tuna burger and any garnishes of your choice. *Hopefully you have a local seafood purveyor. Ask them to get you a block of “saku” which is tuna with blood line removed, cryovaced and frozen. It’s what most of us get in sushi restaurants.
Tuna burgers Serves 4 Sriracha mayonnaise: 1/2 cup mayonnaise, preferably Kewpie
1 teaspoon sriracha, or to taste 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest Big pinch of brown sugar
Tuna: 1 pound sushi-grade tuna*
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onion 2 tablespoons panko (Japanese bread crumbs) 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger 1 teaspoon soy sauce, or to taste 1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons canola oil 4 hamburger buns, split and toasted Burger garnishes of your choice
John Ash is a chef, author, and culinary educator, and in the North Bay he’s often referred to as the “Father of Wine Country Cuisine.” On Saturdays from 11 a.m. to noon, John demystifies the cooking process on The Good Food Hour with co-host Steve Garner on KSRO (1350 AM, 103.5 FM and 94.5 FM). For more information, visit chefjohnash.com.
May 2024
NorthBaybiz 61
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