NAPLES, ITALY
the excellent public transit: buses, subways and underground funiculars that climb straight, elim- inating switchbacks. Or just wander! Embrace the sheer havoc of human traffic swamping the many pedestrian passages. My favourite areas? The Quartieri Spagnoli (Naples was also once a Spanish colony) and Chiaia. Following the hill contours, asymmet- rical public “squares” spill into impassable lanes shaded by flapping laundry. Restaurants and gelat- erie abound. Colourful outdoor markets burst with freshly picked veg and fresher caught fish. GETTING CLAUSTROPHOBIC? Here off Via Toledo, you’re steps from an unforget- table seaside walk — but maybe save it for the golden sunset. Go 150m the other way to the funicular.
For Naples’ unmissable 360-degree view, pay the few euros’ fee to circumambulate the stout walls of Castel Sant’Elmo. Now gawp! Naples doesn’t as much sprawl as tumble. Up here, you can almost
reach out and touch Vesuvius and Capri. ALL THIS TOURING STOKES THE APPETITE. MANGIAMO!
Your daily mission: watch for unpretentious family-owned pizzerias. For €14, my favourite composes Earth’s finest frutti di mare (seafood) pizza, crowded with mussels and clams still a-shell. So, you’re forced to work gingerly, prying apart sharp bits to release the succulent flesh — probably caught today — before exposing the perfectly moist-yet-crunchy tomato-charged crust. Mamma mia!
POMPEII, ITALY
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