TRAVEL
INSTITUTE OF ZORIG CHUSUM The Institute of Zorig Chusum, often referred to as the painting school, offers four to six-year courses in Bhutan’s thirteen traditional arts. These courses encompass a variety of subjects, including painting, carving, sculpture, calligraphy, carpentry, gold and silver smithing, bamboo work, wood turning, weaving and embroidery, pottery- making, blacksmithing and masonry together with incense stick fabrication. Bhutan uses art for both secular and sacred purposes – new creations tend to embody spiritual values and replace their predecessors due to the nation’s strong belief in material impermanence. THE FOUR HARMONIOUS FRIENDS (Bird, hare, monkey and elephant) This familiar Bhutanese motif is called Thunpa Punshi, and is derived from the Jataka tales of the Buddha’s previous lives. Birds, hares, monkeys, and elephants discuss a Banyan tree in this parable, trying to decide which one would be referred to as elders and given priority. The elephant recalled the time when it was a baby and the tree was nothing more than a small shrub. The monkey recalled that its leaves had reached his nose back then. The hare remembered licking up the dew from its leaves when it was just a sapling. Finally, the bird said how there was a massive tree nearby that had grown from seeds he had eaten and material from his droppings. This showed them all that their harmonious bond with each other and the tree had been fundamental in helping it reach such impressive proportions. Buddhist temples and homes commonly display Thunpa Punshis on
doors, curtains, tables, vessels, and walls to bring harmony and auspiciousness. TRASHICHHO DZONG Our next stop was at the Trashichho Dzong, the Fortress of the Glorious Religion, first constructed in 1641 and later rebuilt in 1965 by His Majesty King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. The Dzong houses the King’s Throne Room and His Holiness the Je Khenpo. DOCHULA PASS We drove to Punakha, the former capital of Bhutan, after breakfast on the third day after breakfast through Docula Pass. The Docula Pass offers a magnificent view of the distant Himalayas due to its altitude. Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk, the eldest queen mother, built 108 memorial chorines known as Druk Wangyal Chortens on Duchula Pass. PUNAKHA DZONG Punakha Dzong, the Palace of Great Bliss, was built by the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1637 to serve as a religious and administrative center. RINPUNG DZONG A hillside trail led us to the Rinpung Dzong, which was built by the Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1646 after lunch. The Dzong houses the office of the Dzongda (dzongda) and Thrimpon (judge) of Paro district. The approach to the Dzong is through the traditional covered bridge called Nemi Zam. PARO TAKSTANG The fifth day of the tour was reserved for perhaps the most fascinating place to visit, a place that all Buddhist followers must visit at least once in a lifetime. Visit
to Bhutan’s most famous monastery, the Paro Takstang, also known as the Tiger’s Nest. Located on a steep cliff 900 meters above the Paro valley floor, this monastery is 3,120 meters above sea level. Getting to the top of the cliff was a grueling hike, which made me wonder how I would survive. Tenzin Rabgye constructed the monastery in 1692, around the Tastang Senge Samdup Cave, an area which is steeped in custom and myth; Padmasambahva is said to have meditated there during the 8th century. A legend tells of how he flew over from Tibet, on the back ofYeshe Tsogyal - who had been turned into a flying tigress for this purpose - and then miraculously landed at a particular cliff top. Here Tenzin Rabgye decided to build his monastery, and also used it as a platform from which to spread Buddhism throughout Bhutan, including the Nyingmapa school of Mahayana Buddhism - it is because of these contributions that he has now become known as the “protector saint” of Bhutan. Bhutan remains an unexplored destination marked by raw natural beauty and pristine environment, where people live simple lives for the sake of happiness. EC
OPPOSITE PAGE FROM TOP Punakha Dzong at the convergence of two rivers Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu; a road winds through a forested mountain pass, the Dochula Pass in the Himalaya.
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EC Magazines | London-L.A. Edition 2023
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