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marveling at the waterfall and koi pond, and gaz- ing up at the ancient three-story pagoda Entsukaku which takes pride of place on the hill, framed by the cityscape. At the end of May we hear the gardens twinkle with fireflies, winking stars dotting the lush tapestry of green. Staying in the place feels like an es- cape to an oasis. From tea ceremony in their heritage Zangetsu teahouse, to feasting on lava-rock grilled Miyazaki beef in their Mokoshundo restaurant, to soaking your worries away in the Yu Spa baths, turns out this place is the perfect stop for those who want to experience a range of iconic Japanese culture in one fell swoop (and you’ll never forget the creamy green tea tofu at Mokoshundo). The hotel is also very popular with Japanese couples tying the knot, so there’s a good chance you’ll see a bride and her entourage posing for photos in the lush gardens! Make sure you try the Japanese breakfast; it’s quite the most delightful start to the day, eaten whilst immersed in greenery at Miyuki, their second floor Japanese restaurant. Dishes served will vary depending on what’s fresh and season- al, but the staples are steamed rice, miso soup and pickles, all of which are eaten last, after you have first enjoyed your grilled fish and delicate- ly flavored vegetables, and perhaps a hot-spring poached egg, quivering with yolk. Eating this way feels incredibly virtuous, a beautifully bal- anced yet indulgent breakfast. The attention to detail at the hotel is de- lightful, one of our favorite touches: a little card with the next day’s weather, by our bed each evening. Even if it hadn’t forecast sun, we’d have still been charmed by this. GrandHyatt Tokyo To soak in a distinctly glamorous atmosphere, head to Roppongi, with the luxurious Grand Hyatt To- kyo at the heart of this bustling district. To be pre-

interesting and excellent local produce. We sampled Japanese camembert, lavender jam, fresh melon juice and a fabulously indulgent Lobster Eggs Benedict. We also hoped the white grape and hyaluronic acid shots helped to fix the under eye circles from our late night… Nadaman is the hotel’s fantastic Japanese restaurant–quite the place for lunchingTokyoites. The Lobby Lounge on the 28th floor is also super popular as a place to take–you’ll never guess!– English-style afternoon tea. Tea or champagne and scones amidst the skyscrapers, is a sought after and surprisingly “Tokyo” experience, as the busyness of the Lounge testifies. A stroll ten minutes from the hotel and we were immersed in the lush landscape of the Im- perial Palace Gardens… and then later only a hop away from the upmarket shops and glam- our of Ginza. Simply awesome. If after all the sensory stimulation, you’re experiencing a little overload, a visit to the hotel’s Chi Spa should fix you. Here you can let yourself be transported as your skilled mas- seuse works the neon-induced knots from your shoulders. It’s a veritable recharge, leaving you ready to play once again. Well, it worked for us! Hey, just walking down the street in Tokyo is a stimulating experience, and sometimes you do need a bit of respite!

NISHIKI FOOD MARKET, TOKYO

cise, the hotel forms part of the Roppongi Hills, Japan’s largest “private urban cultural center,” in- tended as a beating cultural heart for Tokyo. You’ll relish your fabulously comfortable, stylish room, and as you soak in the limestone bath, hopefully the most pressing thing on your mind will be what to have for dinner. You’re in luck because as well as being in a neighborhood famed for fine food, the hotel is home to ten upmarket restaurants and bars that cater to the sophisticated palates of the inter- nationally-aware clientele. If you need a break from sushi, you’ll find plenty right here; the Oak Door specializes in excellent meat and produce cooked in their dramatic oak-wood burning oven; the Ital- ian cafe Fiorentina will satisfy your craving for pizza (it’s futile to try and resist the delectable sweets and chocolates at the Fiorentina Pastry Boutique–don’t you have some gifts to buy?), and the Chinaroom serves Cantonese cuisine and fantastic bottomless dim sum (dim sum at lunch only, as is customary). In summertime, the terrace of the French Kitchen is perfect for al-fresco champagne quaffing. You can hit up the hotel’s Nagomi Spa and Fitness if you feel you need to work off yester- day’s dinner and drinks–I think a few laps in the red granite swimming pool should do the trick. Don’t work too hard though, this place is all about kicking back and luxuriating. Step outside and you’re in the thick of it. If you get the chance, you’re a ten-minute walk from Gonpachi, a popular grill restaurant made famous by a scene in the movie Kill Bill . Eat there or go for their great cocktails, they are often busy but will always find a table for you.

STONE STATUE OF RAKAN IN THE

CHINZAN-SO HOTEL GARDENS, TOKYO

FRENCH KITCHEN TERRACE,

GRAND HYATT, TOKYO

The Chinzan-soHotel In a peaceful corner of North-West central Tokyo, the tranquility of the Chinzan-so Hotel is another perfect counterfoil to that bustling urban energy. Here we strolled the serene, immaculate gardens,

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