moda/ Fashion
Amal Kluni, visoko obrazovana žena sa ozbiljnom karijerom advokata, nosi pocepani džins Amal Clooney, a highly educated woman with a serious career as a lawyer, wears torn jeans
glupost postaje popularna. E taj pre- veliki publicitet koji se daje stvarima koje to realno ne zaslužuju – to vam je hajpovanje . Trolovanje je što bez- vredni modeli dostižu astronomske cene. Da se razumemo, hajpovanje Šanela mi je prihvatljivo, ali kroksi- ca na štiklu nije. Šanel tašna se no- si godinama i nosiće se godinama. Doksustaremodnekućeprilič- no nespretno tragale za novim izra- zima, pojavio se brend Vetements , koji okuplja nekoliko dizajnera s kre- atorom gruzijskog porekla Demnom Gvasalijom na čelu. Estetika im se zasniva na istočnoevropskoj modi iz vremena socijalizma. Dakle, skro- mno i siromašno. Modeli nasleđeni od starijeg brata pre nego što ste sta- sali za njih, pohabano, neprikladno… Ideja im je bila da razdrmaju modnu scenuiuniformisanemodnesledbe- nike. I zaista su u jednom trenutku bili osveženje. Kreirali su modele s idejom da budu spoj uličnog stila i visoke mode, autentični i nadasve nosivi. Poigravali su se popularnim modelima koji nemaju vrednost ka- rikirajući ih. I svi smo ih podržava- li. Brend namenjen supkulturašima i onima koji bojkotuju uniformisa- nost pretvorio se u modni fenomen. O njima je pisao Vog , kao i sve rele- vantne novine, zapalili su društvene mreže. Postali su poželjni. I tu dola- zimo do apsurda – najmanje ih nose oni kojima se brend obraćao. Bom- ber-jakna od 1.000 evra ili majica od 689 evra zaista su nedostupni veći- ni. Sad ih nose oni kojima su se pod- smevali. I to je okej. Ali nije okej što njima to ne smeta. Demnin opus je širok – majice sa sloganima, oversajz duksevi, de- mode patike i redizajn nekoliko po- pularnih komada poput kopije Ikea torbe ili kroksica na štiklu. I dok se Demna pravda da je to ironija, štos prikladan za šerovanje društvenim mrežama, u isto vreme zarađuje oz- biljan novac. A to baš i nije ironič- no. Ceo koncept prevazi-
express purpose of sharing in via social net- works. The more shocking the more certain, and it can also be ugly. It must be present on- line – such are the times. The fashion portals then grab such images from shows and spread them feverishly, asking where the style is and who would wear them. Site visits are counted, queues accumulate on portals and silliness be- comes popular. Well, that excessive publicity that’s given to things that don’t not really de- serve it is what we call hype. Trolling is in the fact that worthless items achieve astronomi- cal prices. In order for us to be able to under- stand hyping, Chanel is acceptable to me, but crocks with high heels are not. A Chanel hand- bag is carried for years and will be carried for many more years. While existing fashion houses proved quite inelegant in seeking new expressions, we saw theemergenceofnewbrandVetements,which brings together several designers, head- ed by Georgian-born crea-
them, worn out, inadequate... Their idea was to shake up the fashion scene and uniform fash- ion followers. And at one point they really were refreshing. They created models that were sup- posed to be a blend of street style and haute couture,authenticandaboveallwearable.They played with popular designs that have no val- ue, caricaturing them and all of us who sup- ported them. A brand dedicated to subcultures and those who boycott uniformity turned in- to a fashion phenomenon. They were written about by Vogue and all relevant publications, setting social networks ablaze. They became desirable. And that’s where we reach absurdi- ty – they are worn the least by those who the brand addresses. A 1,000-euro bomber jack- et or a t-shirt priced at 689 euros are really in- accessible to the majority. They are now worn by those they were ridiculing. And that’s okay. But it’s not okay that this doesn’t bother them. Dema’s opus is wide - t-shirts with slogans, oversized sweaters, démodé shoes and rede- signs of several popular pieces, such as cop- ies of an Ikea carrier bag or Crocs with heels. And while Demna justifies this is being ironic, a stunt suitable for sharing on social networks, at the same time he earns serious money. And that’s not really ironic. The whole concept has grown beyond Vetements, with Demna hav- ing become the creative director of Balencia-
Hajpovanje Šanela je prihvatljivo, ali kroksica na štiklu nije Hyping Chanel is
acceptable, but crocks with high heels are not
šao je Vetements , pošto je Demna postao kre- ativni direktor Balen- sijage , pa nam sad
oni nude gore- pomenute plas- tične klompe i torbe. Iako De- mna nije bio prvi, ipak je etablirao trend inspirisan odećom siroma
tor Demna Gvasalia. Their aesthetics are based on Eastern European fash- ion during the time of so- cialism. So, modest and poor. Pieces inherited from an elder brother before you can stand in
44 |
Made with FlippingBook interactive PDF creator