MERVEJEZE I ENKROJABLI U vreme vlade Direktorijuma u Francuskoj en- krojabli i mervejeze su promovisali modnu pro- vokaciju dovedenu do apsurda. Preplavili su ulice Pariza javno podržavajući monarhiju i rugajući se novopečenim bogatašima i Republici. Klasicizam, stil aktuelan u tom trenutku, inspirisan je an- tičkom grčkom i rimskom umetnošću. Buntovni mladi ljudi nosili su odeću na kojoj je skoro svaki detalj bio prenaglašen. Devojke su nosile haljine ampir kroja od tankih providnih materijala koje ništa nisu skrivale, pa se ispod njih nosio triko u boji kože, a dekolte je produbljen skoro do poja- sa, koji je bio tik ispod grudi. Mladići su paradira- li u frakovima sa ogromnim reverima, ešarpu su obmotavali preko visoke kragne skoro do bra- de, kosa je išla preko ušiju, a obavezan rekvizit bile su im naočare na dršci, kvrgavi štap i veli- ki dvorogi šeširi. Jedina razlika između tog i ovog vremena je brzina kojom se informacije šire, pa umesto lokalnog imamo globalni uticaj.
Demna nije prvi, ali je ipak etablirao trend inspirisan odećom siromašnih, kao i obične modele koji dostižu astronomske sume Demna was not the first, but he still established a trend inspired by the clothing of the poor, as well as ordinary designs that achieve astronomical prices
šnih, kao i obične modele koji dosti- žu astronomske sume. Modne revije su poput pozo- rišnih predstava. Neki elementi moraju da budu prenaglašeni da bi naglasili modele. Pre 20 godi- na nikome nije padalo na pamet da zaista prošeta golih grudi ili u providnoj bluzi bez grudnjaka. A bilo ih je na revijama. E, to je razli- ka kad učite napamet ili razumete šta ste videli i pročitali. Velika modna imena nekad su bi- la garancija za estetsku vrednost mo- dela. E pa, ja se danas ne bih lepo ose- ćala u plastičnim kroksicama, čak i da imam XXX evra da ih kupim. Sanda- le plaćene 300 tadašnjih maraka no- sila bih i danas da ih nisam iznosila. Nosila sam ih taman malo duže nego što bi mi trajalo tri pari po 50 maraka. Isplati se i novčano i vizuelno. A kož- nu verziju Ikea torbe ne bih nosila čak ni da je dobijem. Zašto? Zato što i nije napravljena da se nosi, već da se šeruje, ali tu nastaje problem. Torba je puštena u prodaju i rasprodata je! Ispada da no- ve generacije milenijalaca nisu shvati- le komunikaciju koju su same uvele.
ga, which is now offering us the same aforemen- tioned plastic clogs and bags. Although Demna was not the first, he still established a trend in- spired by the clothing of the poor, as well as or- dinary designs that achieve astronomical prices. Fashion shows are like theatre plays. Some el- ements need to be overstated in order to empha- sise designs. Twenty years ago, nobody dreamt of really walking bare breasted or in a transpar- ent blouse without a bra. And they featured in the shows. Well, that’s the difference when you learn by heart or understand what you’ve seen and read. Great fashion names once guaranteed the aesthetic value of an item. Well, today I wouldn’t feel nice in plastic crocks even if I had XXX eu- ros to buy them. I would wear sandals that I paid 300 Deutschmarks for at the time, if I hadn’t worn them out. I wore them just slightly longer than I would have been able to wear three pairs costing 50 Deutschmarks. That paid off, both financially and visually. And I wouldn’t carry the leather ver- sion of Ikea’s carrier bag even if I was given one. Why? Because it’s not made to carry but rather to share, but that’s were a problem emerges. The bag went on sale and has sold out! Turns out that the new generation of Millennials didn’t under- stand the communication that they introduced themselves.
MERVEILLEUSES & INCROYABLES The Incroyables and Mervellieuses promoted fash- ionable provocation pushed to absurdity in Par- is during the time of the French Directory. The streets of Paris flooded with public support for the monarchy and mocking of the nouveau riche and the Republic. Classicalism, a style that was fash- ionable at the juncture, was created with inspira- tion drawn from ancient Greek and Roman art. Re- bellious young people wore clothing on which almost every detail was overstated. Girls wore Im- perial cut dresses made of thin translucent mate- rials that didn’t hide anything, so underneath they wore a skin-coloured slip, while the neckline was lowered almost to the belt, which was positioned just below the breasts. Young men paraded in tail- coats with huge lapels, with a sash wrapped over high collars almost to the chin, with hair falling over the ears and mandatory accessories including lorgnette glasses with a handle, gnarled walking sticks and large bicorne hats. The only difference between that time and this is the speed at which information spreads, so instead of a local impact we have a global one.
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