RIM U FOKUSU ROME IN FOCUS
SALTIMBOCCA ALLA ROMANA Još jedan rimski klasik su ove teleće rolnice sa šunkom i žalfijom, a originalni recept još iz 19. veka sada je obogaćen kapari-
CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIA Reč je o artičokama na jevrejski način, najstarijem jelu koje potiče iz geta, jevrejskog dela grada. Odgajaju se blizu italijanske prestonice, meke su i sočne i, pržene u dubokom ulju, stižu na tanjire u obliku cveta.
ma, lukom i artičokama.
SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA There are several theories about the origin of this well- known spaghetti dish, though they are all at an anecdotal level. According to the first, although it is linked to Rome, the dish actually originates in the Abruzzo region, where it was prepared in the foothills of the Apennines by lum- berjacks on charcoal, and instead of spaghetti they used penne, because that type of pasta is easier to mix with cheese and eggs. A second theory suggests that, since it’s called “alla car- bonara”, there is a suggestion that it was eaten by miners or frequently included large ground pepper corns resem- bling pieces of coal. There is also a belief that this divine dish emerged as a consequence of poverty after 1944, when the Allies deliv- ered powdered eggs and bacon, which Rome’s residents mixed with water and used as a sauce for pasta. There is also a theory that this meal came from Lazio, where it was made in the Napolitano style, with meat, eggs and pecori- no. Many Roman families fled there during World War II and, according to this theory, they brought this recipe with them when they later returned to Rome. After the war, the cuisine of Rome became popular and this dish, now transformed into carbonara, became the typical rep- resentative of the cuisine of the Eternal City. There is al- so a story that it was initially made with ink and was black, hence the name. However, the true story is most likely the simplest one – that Spaghetti alla Carbonara has always been prepared in Roman houses and local restaurants in one way or another way, long before the cuisine of Rome gained the epithet as the world’s most celebrated.
Veal rolls with ham and sage is another Roman classic, and this original recipe from the 19th century has today been enriched with capers, onions and artichokes.
SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA O poreklu ovih nadaleko poznatih špageta ima nekoliko teorija, ali sve su na nivou ange- dota. Po prvoj, iako se vezuje za Rim, jelo je zapravo iz regije Abruco, gde su ga podno Apenina pravile drvoseče na ćumuru i umesto špageta koristile pene jer su se lakše me- šale sa sirom i jajima. Druga kaže da, pošto se zove „alla carbonara“, to upućuje na to da su ih jeli rudari, ili na čestu upotrebu krupno mlevenog bibera, koji liči na komadiće uglja. Tu je i mišljenje da je ovo božanstveno jelo posledica siromaštva posle 1944, kada su sa- veznici dopremali jaja u prahu i slaninu, pa su stanovnici Rima to mešali s vodom i taj sos koristili za testeninu. Ima i teorija da je jelo stiglo iz Lacija, gde se pravilo u napolitanskom stilu, sa mesom, jajima i pekorinom, a kuda su mnoge rimske porodice pobegle tokom Drugog svetskog rata, pa su, vrativši se kasnije u Rim, donele i taj recept. Posle rata, rimska kuhinja je postala popularna, a ovo jelo, sada transformisano u kar- bonaru, postalo je tipični predstavnik kuhinje Večnog grada. Tu je i priča da se u počet- ku pravilo s mastilom sipe i bilo crno, pa otuda i ime, ali najverovatnija je ipak ona naj- jednostavnija priča – da su se špageti karbonara oduvek spremali po rimskim kućama i lokalnim osterijama na ovaj ili onaj način, mnogo pre nego što je rimska kuhinja dobila epitet najslavnije na svetu.
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