Na početku i na kraju beše muzika / At the beginning and the end there was music
trudi da zna sve pomalo, pa ko naiđe, dobije po ukusu. Oni manje stidljivi gosti i sami sedaju za klavir i priča ode u nekom novom pravcu. Ovde kafana čuva još jednu staru priču koja se više nigde u Srbiji ne pri- ča. Muški hor svake nedelje peva u de- set glasova onima koji obrok vole da začine doživljajem. Početkom prošlog veka bilo je normalno da se ljudi oku- pe da čuju nešto što je iz stare Evrope, preko Rusije, stiglo u Srbiju. Ta tradi- cija se izgubila, da bi je u Dva jelena , nedavno, ponovo vratili. – Nekada su horovi bili deo sve- ta, to je baština zapadne civilizacije i nije ni čudo da su prvo stigli u kafa- ne, u koje su stigle i prva struja ili tele- fon. Uostalom, prva opera je izvedena baš u kafani. Ja sam dirigent i, kada su me pozvali da obnovim ovu tradi- ciju horskog pevanja, nisam se dvou- mio, jer ovde pevamo za dušu, našu i svaku drugu – kaže Bratislav Prokić, vođa hora simbolično nazvanog Vo- kalna banda . Svaka čast i Saletu i horu, ali ne bi bilo dobrih noći da nije dobrih tambu- raša. Najbolji među njima, Tamburica 5 , ušli su u istoriju srpske kafane dav- ne 1971. i još su tu, duhom mladi kao nekada. Šta sve oni nisu videli i kome sve nisu prebirali po žicama dok poči- nje novi dan! Još jedan Saša, majstor kontrabasa, seća se vremena kada je sve bilo mnogo sporije, mnogo važ- nije, mnogo kvalitetnije nego danas. – Onda smo snimali stare izvor- ne, narodne pesme, imali smo neko- liko kostima koje su pravile čuvene kostimografkinje tog vremena, sve je moralo da bude na veoma ozbilj- nom nivou. Kad dođete u Dva jelena ,
at the piano themselves, and so the story heads in some new direction. This tavern also preserves another old story that isn’t told anywhere else in Serbia. A male choir sings every Sunday with ten voic- es for those who like to season their meal with cultural experiences. At the beginning of the last century it was normal for people to gather to listen to something that had trav- elled from old Europe, via Russia, to arrive in Serbia. This tradition was lost, only for it to be resurrected recently at the Two Stags... - Choirs were once part of the world; that is the heritage of Western civilisation and it’s no wonder that they first arrived in the kafa- nas, where the first electricity or telephones also arrived. After all, the first opera was even performed in a kafana. I am a conductor and when I was invited to renew this choral sing- ing tradition I didn’t hesitate, because here we sing for the soul, our own and everyone else’s – says Bratislav Prokić, leader of the choir sym- bolically named the Vocal Band. I congratulate Sale and the choir, but it wouldn’t have been a good night without good tamburitza players. The best among them, Tamburica 5, entered the annals of Serbian kafana history way back in 1971 and are still there, in spirit as young as ever. What they haven’t seen and who they ha- ven’t read through their strings... Another Saša, this one a double-bassist, remembers a time when everything was much slower, much more important, much higher qual- ity than today... - Then we recorded old original folk songs, we had a few costumes that were made by renowned costume designers of that time; everything had to be done at a very serious level. When you come to Two Stags you will see that in the pictures - that capital city spirit that couldn’t be dictated by anyone from outside. Everything of val- ue spilled out of Belgrade. We still preserve that as best we can every evening, we re- mind people that from these windows they could hear poets and actors, while we played softly in the background. Times are new, but we are still here – says Saša, heading off with his fellow tamburitza players to perform for some new guests. And that’s why even if you come to the Two Stags only occasionally, you can still feel all those 180 years as something that are your own, in the bohemian heart of the city, in Belgrade’s Montmartre. The story of Skadar- lija’s oldest kafana tavern began way back in the spring of 1832, but it still hasn’t been brought to an end. Every guest writes a new word or adds a new comma. And although the old fiacre carriages no longer roll by, the hoof sounds of old mares still reverberate on the cobblestones that remember and pre- serve those treasured times.
This tavern also preserves another old story that isn’t told anywhere else in Serbia. A male choir sings here every Sunday with ten voices for those who like to season their meal with a cultural experience Ova kafana čuva još jednu staru priču koja se više nigde u Srbiji ne priča. Muški hor svake nedelje peva u deset glasova onima koji obrok vole da začine doživljajem
videćete to na slikama, taj prestonič- ki duh koji nije mogao da diktira ni- ko sa strane. Beograd je napolje preli- vao sve što vredi. Mi to još uvek svake večeri čuvamo koliko možemo, pod- sećamo ljude da su se sa ovih prozo- ra nekada mogli čuti pesnici i glum- ci, dok smo mi u pozadini tiho svirali. Vremena su nova, ali mi smo još tu – reče Sale odlazeći sa svojim tambu- rašima da svira nekom novom gostu. I zato u Dva jelena možete doći tek ponekad, a ipak osetiti svih 180 godina kao nešto svoje, u boemskom srcu grada, na beogradskom Monmar- tru. Priča o najstarijoj kafani u Skadar- liji počinje u proleće davne 1832. go- dine, ali još nije završena. Svaki gost dopiše poneku novu reč i doda nov zarez. I mada fijaker stari više ne lu- ta, bat starog vranca još odzvanja na kaldrmi koja pamti i čuva neka dra- gocena vremena.
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