Moskva Moscow Trajanje leta Aerodrom Flight time Airport
gastro
CULINARY WEEKEND vikend
Er Srbija leti 10 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za Moskvu Air Serbia ies 10 times a week from Belgrade to Moscow
2.50’
Sheremetyevo
R uska trpeza preferira ono što teče, ali se ti- me ne ograničava. Ne- viđen izbor zakuski i nečuvena ponuda supa čine da ruska kuhinja nije siromašnija od njene književnosti. Nevolja je što se obe teško prevode. Ru- sku kuhinju je teže razumeti ne- go simulirati. Počnimo s tim da je osnovni sastojak ruskog jela – vreme. Na svemu možete da štedite osim na vremenu. Hi- ljadu godina Rusija nikuda nije žurila, a kada su počeli da je po- žuruju ne bi li se petoletka ispu- nila za četiri godine, pojavile su se pihtije od stolarskog tutkala. Sovjetska kuhinja je možda i bila prostodušna, ali nikako pro- sta – niko nije znao šta je to do- spevalo u „stolne“ kotlete, gde je to običavao da pliva „riblji sa- stojak“, od kakve faune se sprav- ljao „turistički doručak“. Pravi patriotski jelovnik okrenut je večnosti i dobar deo zaprema gotovljenje pihtija, u čijem re- ceptu posebno intrigira uput- stvo „posle šest sati ponovo ski- nuti penu“. Bogat šči i boršč se kuvaju dva dana u tri bujona. Kaša se utrpava u kožuh i pari, kao da je naze-
Try borscht at Cafe Pushkin Osnovni sastojak ruskog jela je vreme, a posebno intrigira uputstvo „posle šest sati ponovo skinuti penu“ The essential ingredient of every Russian dish is time, and especially intriguing is the instruction: “After six hours remove the foam again” Probajte boršč kod Puškina
T he Russian table prefers that which ows, but is not limited by that. A great selec- tion of snacks and an unprecedented o er of soups ensure that Russian cui- sine is not poorer than its literature. The trouble is that they are both di cult to translate. Rus- sian cuisine is tougher to understand than to simulate. Let’s start with the fact that the essen- tial ingredient of Russian cuisine is - time. You can save on everything else, except that. For a thousand years Russia hasn’t rushed anywhere, and when they started making a frenzy over it, in order for the ve-year plan to be ful lled in four years, aspic jelly (a dish where ingredients are set into a gelatin made from a meat stock or consommé) from carpenter’s glue appeared. Soviet cuisine was perhaps simple-spirited, but in no way simple – no one knew what had fallen into the“table”cutlets, where“ shy ingredi- ents”used to swim, what kind of fauna was used to prepare a “tourist breakfast”. A real patriotic menu is turned towards eternity, a good part of which is covered by aspic jelly, which has a reci- pe that includes the especially intriguing instruc- tion:“After six hours, remove the foam again”. Rich shchi (a cabbage soup) and borscht are cooked for two days in three broths. The mush (a thick porridge) is stu ed into skin, and steamed. To cook dumplings we should wait for winter. The fastest dish to cook is a special thick soup from live sh, but for that you need a hook. And it’s no wonder that Russian food has had no success abroad. It’s like Cyrillic: on the one hand it is too unique, but on the other it isn’t exotic enough. KAFE PUŠKIN Najbolji boršč služi se u kafeu Puškin Gde se nalazi: Tverski bulevar 26A Koliko košta: Šolja: 7 evra; zdela: 16 evra Radno vreme: Od 12 do 24 h PUSHKIN CAFE The best borscht in Moscow is served at the Pushkin Cafe Where is it: Tverskoi blvd, 26A How much: Cup: 7 evra Bowl: 16 evra Working hours: Od 12 do 24 h
bla. Da bi se nape- klo peljmena, tre- ba sačekati zimu. Najbrže se kuva osobita čorba od žive ribe, ali za to vam treba udica. Nije ni čudo što
ruska hrana nije imala uspeha u inostranstvu. Ona je kao ćirilica: s jed- ne strane suviše samosvoj- na, a s druge nedovoljno eg- zotična.
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