Ornamentika koju je izabrala potiče iz manastira širom bivše Jugoslavije The ornamentation she chooses originates from monasteries throughout the former Yugoslavia
J elena Atanasković is a Cetinje native with a Belgrade address. She is the woman who introduced authentic monastic ornamentation to domestic fashion and thus began the fusion and re- vival of Balkan cultural heritage. The idea of transferring large ornamentation formats to jacquard ribbons and combining them with modern cuts, for both clothing and items for the home, with perseverance and inex- haustible optimism, has gained its final form after less than two years of work, under the name “Fantasia di Yeya”. The driving force behind her work is the belief that people will recognise the importance of cultural heritage represented through this prism, coupled with a desire to preserve the iden- tity of the region in this way. Her fashion line includes shirts, tunics, skirts, dresses etc. However, she links them with something unique: the ornamental mo- tif embedded within them as a vivid and ef- fective detail. - My personal style always had its“final touch”, and thus the brand also gained its own stamp through the fusion of authentic monastic ornamentation with contempo- rary trends. Why ornamentation in particu- lar? Tradition in modern clothing is some- how my characteristic signature which has followed me throughout my life, imposed primarily, on the one side, by the nurturing in my home and growing up in a family that loves and emphasises its origins. But, on the other side, there is also the freedom I had to direct my own life and achieve self-realisa- tion in the roles I aspired to. It’s sometimes hard to strike that balance, but it’s very pos- sible – says Jelena. The ornamentation she chooses origi- nates from monasteries throughout the for- mer Yugoslavia and represents part of the great wealth of the cultural heritage of the peoples of the Balkans. That is also perhaps most evident in the waistbands that Jelena creates. In Serbian folk costumes they are called ‘kanice’, but how do they fit into the style of today’s modern women? - Waistbands have somehow imposed themselves as a trademark. All those no-
J elena Atanasković je Ceti- njanka sa beogradskom adre- som. Žena koja je u domaću modu uvela autentičnu ma- nastirsku ornamentiku i tako počela da spaja i oživljava balkansku kultur- nu baštinu. Ideja da se veliki formati ornamenata pretoče na žakard-trake i spoje s modernim krojevima odeće i predmeta za dom, uz istrajnost i ne- presušni optimizam, dobija svoj ko- načni oblik za manje od dve godine pod imenom Fantasia di Yeya . Vera da će ljudi prepoznati značaj kultur- nog nasleđa kroz ovu prizmu i želja da se i na taj način sačuva identitet regiona njena su pokretačka snaga. Njena modna linija sadrži košu- lje, tunike, suknje, haljine, međutim, povezuje ih nešto jedinstveno, motiv ornamentike utkan u njih kao živopi- san i efektan detalj. – Oduvek je moj lični stil imao svoj final touch, pa je tako i brend dobio svoj pečat spajajući autentične mana- stirske ornamente sa aktuelnim tren- dovima. Zašto baš ornament? Tradicija u modernom ruhu negde je moja ka- rakterna crta koja me prati ceo život, nametnuta prvenstveno mojim kuć- nim vaspitanjem i odrastanjem u po- rodici koja voli svoje poreklo i ističe ga. Ali tu je i sloboda koju sam ima- la da život usmerim i ostvarim se u ulogama kojima sam težila. Ponekad je teško napraviti taj balans, ali vrlo moguće – kaže Jelena. A ornamentika koju je izabrala potiče iz manastira širom bivše Ju- goslavije i predstavlja deo velike ri- znice kulturnog nasleđa balkanskih
naroda. Ona je možda i najvidljivija u pojasevima koje Jelena pravi. U srp- skoj narodnoj nošnji oni se nazivaju kanice, a kako se one uklapaju u stil današnjih, savremenih žena? – Pojasevi su se nekako nametnuli kao zaštitni znak. Sve te otmene, pre- lepe žene koje s ponosom ističu svoj struk i žive na zdravim životnim i mo- ralnim principima u sadašnjem vreme- nu moje su muze. Čak i najjednostav- niji modeli odela ili haljina obogaćeni ovakvim pojasom dobijaju jednu sa-
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