Koliko god su krojevi i siluete bili interesantni, glavni utisak su ipak bile boje As interesting as the cuts and silhouettes were, the main impression was left by the colours
Tom Ford brought back the legendary red velvet suit he designed for Gwyneth Paltrow back in the ‘90s, but this time in vivid turquoise and cobalt and, of course, with a more casual cut. The entire collection exuded lightness, with designs that were perfectly relaxed – a glam fusion of silk cargo pants, neoprene jackets and sequined shorts. Altuzarra returned to the New York scene after sever- al years of showing collections in Paris. Joseph Altuzarra is known as a designer who always places an emphasis on the useful and wearable. He attempts to answer the questions of what women really wear in the office, and how to upgrade their own style. He brought that feel- ing back with a modern suit, knitted dresses and cro- cheting in unexpected places. And it's not only about the 9-5 wardrobe, as he knows that his girls also want to have fun. He created special, free-spirited dresses for such events. The guiding idea of Gabriela Hearst is based on na- ture, strong women and art, and it was the same again this year. The natural beauty of the minerals that fasci- nate her run through the entire collection, as do unusu- al prints or crocheted elements on knitwear. Luxury style master Brandon Maxwell, with unu-
sual, almost holographic prints, played with materials that exude indescribable lightness. When print is already dominant, the material is too light. One must dominate. The American sportswear inspired Tory Burch col- lection was an eclectic mix of prints, functionality and playfulness, with clearly defined waistlines to the fore, and yet an indescribable feeling of lightness. The silhou- ettes ranged from midi skirts to palazzo pants. There was also a touch of irony, playfulness and ac- centuating lesser female attributes in America, but of course from a fashion perspective. For this socially re- sponsible part, we can thank Prabal Gurung and his col- lection in which he played with the gingham pattern, feminine tops cut like mini dresses and a colour scheme that screamed in neon red hues and flaming pink. Sharp- ly tailored blazers had tunics, while there were also the inevitable feathers, as the height of chic. Well, here it really looked like we brought it all to- gether, but again somehow connected with the design- er’s seal. Yes, that was the collection of Proenza Schoul- er. Among the winners is a series of cocooned dresses in the colours of the sun, which brought the catwalk to life by walking and fluttering along it.
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