E lsa Schiaparelli is today a lesser known contemporary of the fa- mous Coco Chanel. They both created at the same time, lived in Paris, destroyed taboos and shifted so- cial awareness. Both paved the way for modern women’s fashion, but they end- ed as angry opponents in the battle for the throne of fashion. The dilemma was resolved by Time magazine in 1934, when it declared Elsa the world’s top haute cou- ture creator and consigned Coco to sec- ond place. An Italian lady, Schiaparelli (1890- 1973) had a passion for luxurious fabrics and ladies’ clothing woven with a little fantasy, and sometimes even surrealism. And as an appetite comes with a meal, so the company of the well-known cub- ists and surrealist artists in which she cir- culated proved to be fertile soil for the propagation of her ideas. Joint projects also emerged. Salvador Dali, Jean Cocte- au and Cristian Bérard often designed her fabrics and details. She launched her career with a hand-knitted sweater sporting a black and white ribbon motif. A simple but radical idea, Vogue immediately declared it a mas- terpiece and in just a few months it be- came a star of the American fashion scene. It is worth remembering that, until the 1930s, women from well-to-do fami- lies didn’t really have a need for daywear. Practicality was unimportant. It was dur- ing this period that women became more productive and busier, and for that they required simpler clothing that gave them
Po njenim haljinama slikao je Salvador Dali lično. Spojila je modu i umetnost, kreirala šešir nalik cipeli, uvela print, iznela rajsferšlus na svetlo dana i smislila suknja-pantalone
Elsa Skjapareli Elsa Schiaparelli
E lsa Skjapareli danas je ma- nje poznata savremenica čuvene Koko Šanel. Stvarale su u isto vreme, živele u Pa- rizu, rušile tabue, menjale društvenu svest. Obe su utrle put savremenoj ženskoj modi, ali su do kraja osta- le ljute protivnice u borbi za mod- ni presto. Dilemu je rešio magazin Tajms , koji je 1934. proglasio Elsu za najbolju kreatorku visoke mode, dok je Koko završila na drugom mestu. Italijanka Elsa Skjapareli (1890– 1973) imala je strast za luksuzne tka- nine i žensku odeću protkanu sa ma- lo fantazije, ponekad čak i nadrealnu. A kako apetit dolazi sa jelom, tako je i društvo poznatih kubista i umetni- ka nadrealista u kojem se kretala bilo plodno tle za rasplamsavanje njenih ideja. Rađali su se i zajednički pro- jekti. Često su joj Salvador Dali, Žan Kokto i Kristijan Bero dizajnirali tka- nine i detalje. Karijeru je započela ručno plete- nim džemperom sa crno- belim moti- vom mašne. Jednostavna, ali radikal- na ideja. Vog ga je odmah proglasio za remek-delo, a u Americi je postao modni hit za svega nekoliko meseci. Ne zaboravite da do 1930. žene iz dobrostojećih porodica nisu zai- Tekst / Words: Sofija Kuzmanović Fotografije / Photography: Getty, Profimedia.rs
Salvador Dali personally painted on her dresses. She combined fashion and art, created a hat that looked like a shoe, introduced print, brought zips into the light of the day and concocted skirt pants
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