jadran u fokusu / adriatic in focus
the sea – we’re told by our captain, who’s actually a graduate marine en- gineer, as he tells us in jest that he isn’t rocked by the boat, but rather by the land when he returns to shore after a full day at sea. We are feeling good for now, with the waves lightly rocking us as we pass by small bays where the sea is emerald green. There are several of them along the stretch between Mogren and Jaz, after which the boat arrives at Trsteno or Ploče. These are beautiful beaches, but they can also be accessed by car, so we tell Mašan to head to Sveti Nikola island. Imme- diately after we pass a rocky outcrop called Školjić, there is a wild beach that’s almost completely devoid of people. More precisely, there is almost nobody, because above it is circling a flock of swallows! - The islands of Sveti Nikola and Sveti Stefan are the only places in Mon- tenegro where coastal swallows nest in such numbers, creating an unfor- gettable sound at sea. It can happen when the weather is bad that they nest under the canopy of the boat. We never touch them – we leave the birds to mature and fly away to Sveti Nikola, explains Mašan. The swallows lead us easily to the other side of the island, where we saw the famous beach‘Pod murvom’(Under Mulberry), a wonderful place, also known for its excellent food and fresh seafood specialities. Master of Mediterranean cuisine Duško Vučićević – a fireman by profession, but also a trained chef, and one of the best in the Adriatic region, sometimes sails with Mašan and tourists then receive an entire new smell and taste. - When we have people who love fishing, then there is a real feat. We prepare everything they catch on the boat immediately. Just imagine what it’s like when one of the best chefs in the Adriatic region personally pre- pares carpaccio for you from freshly caught fish. Aboard the boat we always have local wine to serve to guests, so these small trips around hidden spots end with full stomachs and wide smiles. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to enjoy fish and seafood, but we learnt a few important lessons. If you like fishing from the shore, during summer you will on the whole manage to catch some blue fish, because the real season be- gins only in autumn, when the sea calms a little from the swim- mers and boats. However, even during summer you can catch some dentexes, but only if you use live bait, preferably live cuttlefish or squid. Then, if you are collecting shellfish, mussels or clams, it is important that you take them home in saltwater, because they spoil easily and shouldn’t be out of water for long. - On these tours we either take people to beautiful beaches or let them swim in the depths. Sometimes we land on a beach and prepared the fish we’ve caught on stones. We light a fire and throw in large stones from the beach, then the fish are placed on those stones and covered with foil. A little olive oil and salt, and then joy - says our captain, who warns us about a rock that can barely be seen, which is also why tourists should only em- bark on boat tours with experienced guys. I look to see where the top of that rock is, but from the sea I can’t see anything. Then Mašan says: There, see, it just gave us a kiss...
ličnoj hrani i svežim morskim specijalitetima. Majstor mediteranske kuhinje Duško Vučićević, inače vatrogasac, ali i ško- lovani, nagrađivani kuvar, jedan od najboljih na Jadra- nu sa Mašanom ponekad vo- zi turiste brodićem, a to onda dobije sasvim novi miris i ukus. − Kad imamo ljude koji vole
da pecaju, onda nastaje prava fešta. Sve što upecaju, odmah spremimo na brodu. A zamisli kad ti jedan od najboljih kuvara na Jadranu lično sprema karpaćo od tek izvađene ribe. Na brodu uvek imamo domaće vi- no da poslužimo goste, pa se ova mala putovanja po skri- venim mestima završe uz pune stomake i široke osmehe. Nažalost, nismo imali vremena da uživamo u ribi i plo- dovima mora, ali smo naučili nekoliko važnih lekcija. Ako vam je do pecanja, sa obale ćete uglavnom leti uspeti da ulovite neku plavu ribu, jer prava sezona počinje tek od je- seni, kad se more malo odmori od kupača i brodova. Dodu- še i leti može da se uhvati neki zubatac, ali samo ako ko- ristite živi mamac, najbolje živu sipu ili lignju. Zatim, ako skupljate školjke, dagnje ili mušlje, kako ih gde zovu, važ- no je da ih kući donesete u slanoj vodi jer se lako kvare i ne smeju dugo biti na suvom. − Na ovim turama vodimo ljude do divnih plaža ili ih pustimo da se kupaju u dubinama. Nekad se iskrcamo na plažu, pa ulovljenu ribu spremimo na kamenju. Zapali se vatra, ubaci veliko kamenje sa plaže, pa se riba na to sta- vi i pokrije folijom. Malo maslinovog ulja, soli i eto rado- sti – kaže naš kapetan, koji nas upozorava na stenu koja se gotovo uopšte ne vidi, zbog čega bi turisti i inače trebalo da izlaze na vožnje brodićem samo sa iskusnim barbama. Gledam gde je taj vrh stene, apsolutno ništa sem mo- ra ne vidim, a Mašan kaže: − Eno je tamo, vidiš, upravo nam je dala poljubac…
Pod murvom, najlepša plaža na Svetom Nikoli ‘Under mulberry’, St. Nikola island’s most beautiful beach
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