Elevate July 2018 | Air Serbia

Stefana Lazarevića, pa je zato crkva u Topčideru najstarije sačuvana beogradska crkva iz perioda obnovljene Srbije. – Najstarija sačuvana crkva u Beogradu stara je tek ne- što više od 180 godina. Mi u Evropi nemamo nijednu kul- turnu prestonicu gde je najstariji hram tako mlad. Predanje kaže da je na početku gradnje crkve knez Mi- loš prvo tražio da se naprave vešala, da ukoliko majstori prekorače rok znaju šta ih čeka. Crkva je, srećom, sagra- đena u roku, bez vešanja. – Knez Miloš je bio poznat po tim svojim vaspitnim metodama. Pošto se u blizini crkve nalazio kazneni zavod Topčider , mi smo u crkvenim knjigama iz 1824. godine pro- našli da su zatvorenici tog zavoda imali obavezu da peva- ju kao pojci na bogosluženjima. Oni bi onda u crkvenim knjigama pisali svoje doživljaje i upisivali zašto su dobija- li kazne. To su ilustracije društvenog morala onog vreme- na. Tako, na primer, vidimo da je izvesni Mita bio kažnjen sa godinu dana zatvora jer je komšiji ukrao pevca – priča o neobičnoj istoriji ove crkve Vlada Marković. Danas crkva ima obnovljen ikonostas, mitropolitov konak kao galeriju sa stalnom i aktuelnom postavkom, i gostoprijemnicu, koja je uređena po uzoru na trpezarije srpskih srednjovekovnih manastira. Sva u kamenu, sa veli- kim drvenim stolovima, ikonom, čini da ova trpezarija vo- di u duhovnu zonu, drugačiju od onoga što se može vide- ti i osetiti u Beogradu. Kada se 12. jula, na praznik Svetih apostola Petra i Pavla, čuje u porti crkve akustična muzi- ka i glasovi poznatih muzičara, kažu da i apostoli slave.

Mozaik Svetih apostola Petra i Pavla Mosaic of the Holy Apostles of Peter and Paul

Miloš was tasked with protecting and organizing the accommoda- tion of the Serbian army in Topčider forest, explains this temple’s priest today, before adding the most valuable fact: - Prince Miloš gifted three bells to this Topčider church, two of which were removed during World War I and taken to Vienna, where they were melted down – together with all other bells taken from Orthodox temples – and used for the needs of the war. The third, smallest bell was preserved and today represents a significant item of antiquity. It was placed under the protection of the state, togeth- er with the church and the residence of the metropolitan bishop, in 1949. This historic bell of Prince Miloš rang to announce the liber- ation and independence of Serbia after the second hatt-i sharif of 1830, explains Father Marković, reminding that the Ottoman Turks demolished all churches from the period of Despot Stefan Lazare- vić during their occupation of Belgrade, which is why this Topčider church is the oldest surviving Belgrade church from the period of Serbia’s re-emergence as an independent kingdom. - The oldest preserved church in Belgrade is only just over 180 years old. There is no other cultural capital of Europe where the old- est temple is so young. According to traditional accounts, at the start of the church’s construction Prince Miloš first instructed that gallows be erected – so the craftsmen would be aware of what awaited them if they failed to meet the conditions of the contract. Fortunately, the church was built within the deadline, with nobody hanging. - Prince Miloš was famous for his educational methods. Given that the Topčider Penal Institution was located near the church, in church books from 1824 we found records confirming that the pris- oners of that institution had an obligation to sing as choir mem- bers during church services. They would then write entries in church books describing their experiences and explaining why they had been imprisoned. These entries illustrate the social morality of the time. For example, we see that a certain Mita was sentenced to a year in prison for stealing his neighbour’s cockerel, explains Vlada Marković, recounting the unusual history of this church. The church today has a restored iconostasis, with the residence of the metropolitan bishop acts as a gallery with permanent and current exhibitions, and a guest hall that is arranged based on the model of medieval Serbian monasteries. All in stone, with large wooden tables, an icon etc. renders this dining room a spiritual zone that differs from anything else that can be seen and felt in Belgrade. When acoustic music and the voices of famous musicians are heard in the church port during the holiday of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul on 12 th July, it is said that these apostles also celebrate.

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