Moj kutak sveta / My corner of the world
tamo, posle Građanskog rata, izgra- dili kuće od drvene čipke koje su – san dečji. To je u početku bio kamp za molitvu. Jedan od uglednih me- todista bio je general, kasnije pred- sednik Julisiz Grant, istorijska ličnost sklona alkoholu. Kuće uokviruju ši- roki travnjaci, na sredini je gazibo i odatle puca pogled na okean i talase. U Ouk Blafsu je picerija poznata po ostrigama, picama i pivima. Bure je puno kikirikija koji možeš slobod- no da zagrabiš. Pod je pokriven lju- skama od kikirikija. Po odelu ne bi mogao reći da li je neki gost milio- ner ili fizički radnik. Čudna mešavi- na sveta je karakteristična za to bo- gato ostrvo, koje nije izgubilo dušu. Iz naše baze u Oak Blafsu stal- no nekud idemo. Idemo da vidimo gde se gnezde primorski orlovi. Lju- di su im napravili platformu na vi- sokim jarbolima. Idemo u mesto Vi- njard Hejven, gde se donedavno nije smeo prodavati alkohol, na doručak, da nešto kupimo ili da nekog dočeka- mo s trajekta. Idemo na Čapakvidik, ostrvo pored ostrva. Iza pozelenelih kamenih ograda pasu konji. Cvetovi se šarene u baštama. Prolazimo kroz aristokratski Edgartaun. Edgartaun je lep, ali sterilan. Tu je bela crkva s po- lovine 19. veka s debelim belim stu- bovima, ograde i vrtovi. Posle dvomi- nutne vožnje trajektom prelazimo na Čapakvidik. Ostavljamo auto na pe- sku među borovima. Koračamo da- ščanom stazom podignutom na kolje. Zastajemo na drvenom mostu gde je pijani Tedi Kenedi poleteo autom u zaliv. Devojka je ostala u automobi- lu i udavila se. To je razlog što on ni- kad nije postao predsednik. Ogradu mosta su ojačali tako da bi zaustavi- la tenk. To je mesto tragedije. Istovre- meno, to je mesto peska, vode, vetra. To je divno mesto tišine. Na drugom kraju ostrva s plaža gledamo kako se brda od raznobojne, crvene, crne i bele gline slivaju u mo- re. Glina se ne sme dirati, jer od nje lo- kalni Indijanci prave grnčariju. Vam- panoag je jedan od starijih rezervata u Novoj Engleskoj. Indijanci ne liče na Indijance, više na crnce, jer su se dve odbačene grupe kroz stoleća me- šale. Mesto se zvanično zove Akvina, a svi ga zovu Gej Hed (engl. Gay He- ad, doslovno vesela glavica ). Svetionik nadgleda zaliv i plaže izuzetne lepo- te. Leti se ljudi tu kupaju i piju šam- panjac. Zimi tu udaraju talasi od kojih vas podilazi jeza i od kojih ne možete da odvojite pogled. Tu imate izuzetan
cohol until recently, for breakfast or to buy something, or to await someone arriving on the ferry. We go to Chappaquiddick, an island beside the island. Horses graze be- hind stone walls that have turned green with age. Flowers provide colours in the gardens. We pass through the aristocratic Edgartown, which is beautiful but sterile. There is a white church from the mid-19th century with thick white pillars, fences and gardens. A two-minute ferry ride takes us to Chappaquiddick. We leave our car on the sand between pine trees. We step onto the boardwalk raised on sleeper beams. We stand on the wooden bridge where a drunk- en Ted Kennedy flew into the bay in his car. The girl accompanying him was trapped in the car and drowned. That’s the reason he neverbecamepresident.Theystrengthened the barrier of the bridge so that it would now stop a tank. This is a place of tragedy, while at the same time a place of sand, wa- ter and wind; a beautiful place of serenity. From the beach at the other end of the island we see how hills of various colours, red, black and white clay, tumble into the sea. You’re not allowed to touch the clay, because local native Americans use it to make pottery. Wampanoag is one of the oldest tribal res- ervations in New England. The locals don’t resemble other native Americans, but rath- er Africans, due to their mixing with rejected groups over the centuries.The town is official- ly called Aquinnah, but everyone refers to it as Gay Head, from the time when gay meant happy. A lighthouse overlooks the bay and its exceptionally beautiful beaches. During the summer people bathe and drink cham- pagne here. In the winter it is hit by thun- derous waves that you can’t take your eyes off. Here you get a great sense of breadth. The light of the Atlantic breaks and plays its game above the beaches. I once saw a seal lying on its side and grinning at some dogs, of which it had the stronger bite. Martha’s Vineyard provided the location for shooting the famous movie ‘Jaws’. I’m not the same person since I watched that film. The island resembles a fish when viewed on a map and is marked by many lakes and bays. Sandbank deposits frame it on all sides. The beaches here always re- mind me of the Kōbō Abe novel‘Woman in the Dunes’. In the winter, the wind carries sand and brushes around hoods. We skip over the empty shells of horseshoe crabs, monsters dating back millions of years. Here, among the grey grasses, we collect shells and interesting stones. In shacks that have been faded by the wind, we buy oysters. We discard the empty oyster shells at vehi- cle access points towards our house. Cars then crush them, leaving the roadways re- sembling a glittering path.
Martas Vinjard je ostrvo na kom letuju predsednici Amerike Martha’s Vineyard is an island where American presidents take their summer holidays
osećaj širine. Atlantska svetlost se lo- mi i igra svoje igre nad plažama. Tu sam jednom video foku kako leži na boku i kezi se na pse, od kojih ima ja- či ugriz. Na ostrvu Martas Vinjard de- šava se radnja filma Ajkula , o lovu na belu ajkulu. Otkad sam video taj film, nisam više isti čovek. Ostrvo na mapi liči na ribu, pod- lokano je mnogim jezerima i zalivi- ma. Peščani nanosi ga uokviruju sa svih strana. Na ovdašnjim plažama uvek mislim na knjigu Koba Abea Že- na u dinama . Zimi vetar nosi pesak i šišti po kapuljači. Preskačemo pra- zne ljušture potkovičastih kraba, ču- dovišta starih milion godina. Tu, me- đu sedim travama, skupljamo školjke i zanimljivo kamenje. U brvnarama, iz- bledelim od vetra, kupujemo ostrige. Prazne ljušture ostriga pobacamo po automobilskom prilazu ka kući. Au- tomobili ih izmrve, pa to posle izgle- da kao svetlucavi put.
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