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seafood specialities ... Much of this is reminiscent of Italy, but it’s actually Montenegro. Perast is an old town-museum where every alley- way, house, step and stone has its own story and his- tory, while it provides the best testimony to Baroque architecture that emerged between the 17 th and 18 th centuries. Built by reputable, wealth mariners, while many of the families here had noble origins, the res- idents nurtured culture and creativity. Perast retains that artistic, refined, elegant spirit to this day - that en- ergy colours this place that’s filled with palaces, chap- els and churches. Vibrant, elegant, small and photo- genic - Perast will captivate you from the moment you cross its threshold. Treasure trove of history and culture From the small and charm-

Iz Perasta brodićem krenite do ostrvaca Gospa od Škrpjela i Sveti Đorđe / Head out on a small boat from Perast to the islets of Our Lady of the Rock and St. George

ing Perast, we move 14 kilometres away to the more ostentatious, noisy and content-rich Kotor, or the old part of this coastal town. During the summer months, when throngs of people crowd everything here, life sprays over you in all its beauty the moment you pass the ramparts of the fortress that still guards the Old Town. The city breathes, all the world’s languages blend, sauntering the cobbled streets are domesticat- ed cats that have grown accustomed to crowds, old balconies are adorned with pots of petunias and geraniums, while freshly washed clothes sway on washing lines... Hidden cafes tucked away, cute souvenir shops, luxury boutiques, elegant and bohemian

restaurants, cheerful ice cream parlours - you’ll find everything you need within the walls of the fortress! Lavish testimony Singling out what must be seen in Kotor’s Old Town is difficult, because the only correct answer is everything. Set aside enough time and leisurely enjoy every house, palace, monument, square, gate, church, fountain and cathedral, in the traces of different eras - Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque! Pay particular at- tention to the 16th-century Pima Palace - it is said to be the most representative monument of the Ba- roque construction style in Kotor, and it couldn’t even be destroyed by the disastrous earthquake of 1979. It is characterised by its beautiful wrought iron balcony and striking green shutters. The city is also dominated by the imposing Ca- thedral of St. Tryphon, which dates back to 1166 and is one of the oldest cathedrals in Europe, and inside you’ll find frescoes from the 14 th century, but also a rich treasury containing works by local and Venetian

goldsmiths that are several centuries old. Interesting- ly, over 35 religious buildings are contained inside the fortress, each of which wins one over with reduced, archaic aesthetics that testify to a glittering, but of- ten tragic, history. Ladders and 1,426 steps A special jewel of Kotor is San Giovanni For- tress, which - together with the ramparts - actual- ly forms a complete whole, while it is also dubbed the “Ladders of Kotor”. And it is clear why, given that it actually rises above the town itself and visi- tors must climb as many as 1,426 steps (or skalina, as the locals would say) to reach it. On route to the top you’ll come across the beautiful Church of Our Lady of Remedy, which was built by locals almost 500 years ago, as a sign of gratitude for salvation from the plague. With their beauty and grandeur, the ancient walls of Kotor aren’t only fascinating, but also awe-inspiring... Times change, rulers come and go, but they endure forever!

Montenegro » Crna Gora | 103

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