applicable approach to fashion.
New York and London fashion weeks are connected by a shared language, but in everything else they are divided by an entire ocean. However, they will share another expe- rience. Fashion Week in New York has been abandoned by Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne and Joseph Altuzarra, who re- located to Paris. The same thing happened in London in 2002, when Alexander Mc- Queen, Stella McCartney and Hussein Cha- layan fled to Paris. London turned towards younger forces, made a platform that was sponsored by Topshop and built a recognis- able avant-garde image. Christopher Kane arrived on the catwalks straight from Cen- tral Saint Martins, while that opportunity was also taken by Erdem, Jonathan Saun- ders, Roksanda, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pi- lotto and Simone Rocha. Will the pragmatic New York Fashion Week overcome the loss of good design- ers? America is still a powerful generator of innovation and trends, open to the most varied ideas. In the 1980s, the emancipation of wom- en gained a visual identity in the designs of Donna Karan, while in the‘90s Marc Jacobs introduced grunge to fashion, and Calvin Klein and Michael Kors introduced the min- imalism that marked the style of a whole generation. The news reverberating around fash- ion circles is that Tom Ford is back. The mis- chievous boy of American fashion, follow- ing an excursion into the world of film and experimenting with a new method of sale, returned to a proven method of presenting and selling. He opened Fashion Week with a fantastic collection. Oversized, broad-shouldered jackets ar- rived with us straight from the ‘90s, along with provocatively presented bodices. Is this nostalgia for glory days spent at Gucci, or a reinterpretation of himself? Whatever the case, the aesthetics of the‘90s are a hit again. Raf Simons took over the helm at fash- ion house Calvin Klein last February and, us- ing computer terminology, updated the idea of American minimalism. The new collection relies on the previous, while some new el- ements have also been introduced. Andy Warhol, horror films and cheerleaders, as part of the cultural milieu of America, are part of the inspiration of Raf Simons. And for the dose of shock that’s essential for such shows, there are rubber dresses that border on the perverse. Femininity should be strong, said Vic- toria Beckham, presenting a collection that could also be worn by working women, pen- cil- and midi-skirts, narrow trousers, interest- ing shirts. All the models are easy to com-
SRPSKA MODA NA LONDONSKOJ PISTI Srpska kreatorka Nevena Ivano- vić prikazaće na Londonskoj nede- lji mode uniseks kolekciju Atheneo u okviru programa Ones to Watch . Ko- lekcija je inspirisana hazarskom prin- cezom Ateh, učiteljicom i čarobnicom besmrtnog duha, kao i formama oto- manske nošnje koja se prenela na delove srpske narodne nošnje. SERBIAN FASHION ON THE LONDON CATWALK Serbian creator Nevena Ivanović will present her “Atheneo” unisex collec- tion within London Fashion Week’s “Ones to Watch” programme. The col- lection was inspired by Khazar princess Ateh, teacher and sorceress of the im- mortal spirit, as well as the forms of Ot- toman dress that were transferred to parts of Serbian folk costumes. bine, which saves time if you’re not a lady of leisure. Pastel and translucent, this collection suits NY Fashion Week perfectly. Jason Wu is still consistently experi- menting with deconstruction. His asym- metric designs appear careless, but are deeply conceived. In short - pastel, trans- lucent and floral. Is this the calm before the storm? Fashion weeks have passed, standards are being smashed, definitions of beautiful and desirable are changing, the future of fash- ion is being built on the past, styles are be- ing reinterpreted, the purpose of designs is changing, but in essence there’s nothing new. We are still awaiting a clear response from the fashion industry to the new circumstances, as we once received with Dior’s New Look, Mark Jacobs’ grunge or Calvin Klein’s mini- malism. Global promoters are bloggers and influencers who earn huge amounts of mon- ey for showing designs in a shallow and ap- plied way, but despite earning serious mon- ey, they don’t buy most of the garments they present – instead receiving them for free. Until the new profile of the consumer is defined, there are unlikely to be any rev- olutionary changes in fashion.
Prabal Gurung napravio je miks atraktivnog i ženstvenog Prabal Gurung created a mix of attractive and feminine
When the New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks, better known as the Big Four, close the circle and present what they Kad Njujorška, Londonska, Milanska i Pariska nedelja mode, poznatije kao Velika četvorka, zatvore krug i kažu šta imaju, znaćemo kako će izgledati ulice svetskih metropola, naslovne strane magazina i Instagram
Sofisticirani model Viktorije Bekam Victoria Beckham’s Sophisticated Style
have, we will know what the streets of
world metropolises, the covers of magazine and Instagram will all look like
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