New look i danas deluje sofisticirano, ali bez steznika i dobrog grudnjaka nema ovakve siluete The “New Look” still appears sophisticated today, but without a corset and a good bra there is no silhouette like this
that emphasise the female silhouette. At rst glance, he seems to have linked various collec- tions and designs via the same approach that shaped the silhouette according to a prede- terminedappearance.Thewastewasempha- sised, relocated or tightened. The hips grew and shrunk thanks to the choice of materi- al. Shantung silk, organza, ta eta, satin, vel- vet... He loved adornments and patterns, and drew inspiration from history. The Belle Épo- que was his favourite period, along with the eclectics that it brought. Large quantities of fabrics, skill and decorations he used didn’t hinder the readability of the designs. He high- lighted only one thing, lace or glittering ma- terial or cut, which gave the designs a clear look. He cut out the excess and thus empha- sised the essential. He highlighted the cuts with his choice of dull colours and fabric with simple cuts. Intended for the privileged, the haute couture designs he created were un- derstandable to everyone. And that is proba- bly where the secret of his success is hidden. He saw the power of the media on time and built excellent relations with the press, which rendered him and his designs visible to a wider audience, even though these re- views were only for the chosen few. He ap- peared on the cover of Time magazine in 1957, gave lots of interviews and dressed
stars like Marlene Dietrich and Ava Gardner. He created the dress that Princess Marga- ret wore for her 21 st birthday. Each year, via the press, he announced major changes that most often related to the length of skirts. The media accepted his descriptions that were almost like orders, so you could read about some colour that’s not to be worn or which types of hats are forbidden. Each collection included around 200 items. He created perfumes and introduced a section for socks and gloves. Roger Vivier de- signed shoes for his boutique. In the end, his Parisian outlet sold complete accessories for women. He created for only ten years, but that was enough to restore Paris’s splendour as a capital of fashion, he choseYves Saint Laurent as an assistant and laid the foundations for an empire that endures to this day. He became and remains synonymous with classical ele- gance. During a holiday in Montecatini, just a few weeks before the 1958 show, Dior died from a heart attack. Following his death, he was replaced successively in the position of leading crea- tor by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Giani- franco Ferre, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri, whose creations are al- so on display in the exhibition that runs un- til 14 th July 2019.
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