WINE&DINE OJ, SRBIJO, MEĐU ŠLJIVAMA OH SERBIA, AMONG THE PLUMS Bilo da je sa merakom ispijamo, da je deca prstićima brišu iz tegli
Whether we sip it indulgingly, snatch it with children’s fingers from jam jars or eat it wrapped in dumplings, the plum is with us throughout our entire lives
sa pekmezom ili da je jedemo obmotanu knedlom, šljiva je celog života sa nama
Tekst / Words: Jelena Pantović Fotografije / Photography: Zoran Lončarević, Nebojša Raus
Oj, Srbijo, među pesmama, među šljivama, oj, Srbijo, među ljudima, na njivama, oj, Srbijo, među pesmama, među stadima, oj, Srbijo, pesmo među narodima... O Srbiji među šljivama peva Oskar Da- vičo, jer Srbije nikad bilo nije a da se nad njom nije nadvijala dobra senka modre šljive, srpskog svetog drveta ži- vota i smrti kojem se Srbin vraća i kad nazdravlja novom životu i kad pije za pokoj duše. Nažalost, Srbija više nije država u kojoj su ogro- mna prostranstva kao početkom prošlog veka, sva- ke jeseni u vreme berbe, poprimala boju mastila. Broj stabala ove voćke počeo je drastično da opada, što preti da našu priču o šljivama i rakiji pretvori u još jedno sećanje na neka bolja vremena. Ne tre- ba zaboraviti da je u doba vladavine kneza Miloša Obrenovića srpska šljivovica imala veliki ugled. Slu- žena je na carskim i kraljevskim dvorovima širom Evrope, a postoje podaci i da je 1858. godine suva šljiva bila drugi najvažniji izvozni proizvod Srbije. U Dva jelena , jednom od najboljih i svakako najstarijih beogradskih restorana, čuvaju tradici- ju i srpsko nasleđe, 180 minulih godina i slavnih koraka velikana koji su hodili kaldrmom Skadarli- je. Ne čudi zato da su i našu čuvenu šljivu sačuva- li od zaborava pokušavajući da joj vrate staru sla- vu. Za početak, ovo su voće sveže ili sušeno stavili u jelovnik restorana, a predjelo u kojem su glavne role dodeljene slaninici i suvoj šljivi postalo je na- daleko čuveno i omiljeno među gostima kafane.
Oh, Serbia among songs, among plums, oh, Serbia among people, in the fields, oh, Serbia among songs, among herds, oh, Serbia, song among nations ... S inging about Serbia among the plums is Oskar Davičo, because Serbia has never been without this fruit, and above it has always hung the good shade of bruised plums. Serbia’s sacred tree of life and death, to which a Serb returns when both toasting the arrival of a new life and drinking for the repose of the soul. Unfortunately, Serbia is no longer a country like it was at the beginning of the last century, when vast expanses took on the colour of ink every autumn at harvest time. The number of trees bearing this fruit began declining drasti- cally, which threatens to turn our story of plums and rakija into another recollection of better times. That’s because we shouldn’t forget that Serbian plum brandy had a great rep- utation during the reign of Prince Miloš Obrenović. It was served at imperial and royal courts across Europe, while ex- isting statistics show that prunes were Serbia’s second most important export product in 1858. At the Dva Jelena (Two Stags) restaurant, one of Bel- grade’s best and certainly oldest eateries, they preserve tra- dition and Serbian heritage, the past 180 years and the steps of famous greats that have walked the cobblestones of Ska- darlija. It is thus no surprise that they have even preserved our famous plum from oblivion and sought to restore its for- mer glory. For a start, they included this fruit, fresh or dried, on the restaurant’s menu, while the starter in which the main roles are assigned to bacon and prunes has become widely known and a favourite among guests.
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