Sjaj i beda srpskih buvljaka / Glitter and misery of Serbian flea markets
Ovde se može naći sve od igle do lokomotive You can find everything here “from needles to locomotives”
U nder the not very flattering name of “flea market” hides the realm of any and everything, which can best be described with folk saying “from needles to locomotives”. Un- like in other European capitals, Belgrade’s “flea markets”have mostly found their place on the footpaths, parcelled concrete plots, which in no way diminishes their charm, at least not for true lovers who not only prize items with a rich “biography”, but also the specific atmosphere of these open-air“sec- ond-hand” markets. What is particularly enjoyable in all of these places is the relationship between buy- ers and sellers. Music, imaginatively displayed goods, economically predictable shouts, as well as especially tempting offerings like “three for a hundred dinars”. Perhaps even because they call melodically, “brkaj, brkaj, brkaj”– an untranslatable phrase invite shop- pers to dive among a pile of used branded rags. Serving to more quickly establish con- tact are the names of previous owners, who are significant in local contexts. If something was allegedly worn by some famous person, it will certainly be more appealing. Whoever comes here exclusively for fun, because it is known that bustle of a flea mar- ket is the most effective cure for a bad mood, need not haggle in the common way. He they absorb the invisible, which lies between the lines of cacophonous market dialogue. Careful observers will not miss the of- ten imperceptible language of communi- cation among the customers: a nudge with the elbow when they encounter someone famous, usually disguised behind dark glass- es; the well-trained cunning and patience to
in the morning hours. The offer used to be really rich, explains market patron Milutin, “until most of the quality goods were ob- tained by ethno restaurants and home mu- seums, or taken out of Serbia”. Another rule that applies, and which sometimes slips into the opposite, is that
the “models” might protest at first, but af- ter just a couple of seconds they’ll agree to strike a pose. It is difficult to single out specific Bel- grade flea markets, as an assessment de- pends on the temperament of the client. For the impatient there are good green markets, with special parts where the cream of what’s on offer arrives. For“explorers”there is a con- venient point beside the New Belgrade Rail- way Station, where you really need to dive and dig. Enduring walkers are recommend- ed to try the market at the far end of Zemun or on the periphery of the Vidikovac market, especially on weekends, or to head to the other extreme, to Pančevo. There are many possibilities and endless options, with diver- sity the least lacking. Life in miniature flows smoothly there, where people fight for their own loaf of bread, often selling their most valuable memories for a pittance.
youneverfindwhatyouarereallyseek- ing. Then, if you’re wiser, you leave that to the shopaholic mob or manage to master it, until you come across a re- al object of desire. It is not only legit- imate, but also recommended, to in- itially only look, saving your strength for the most thorough search possi- ble. Visitors who don’t know a word of Serbian should focus on the euphoric vibrations, but also on the faces: hap- py, sad, concerned, angry, but whatev- er the case always lively and illustra- tive – ideal for taking photos. Some of
wait for someone else to try, consider and then give up, before stepping in. Many recommend that you should ar- rive at the flea market as early as possi- ble, but those who could lecture eco- nomics professors argue that isn’t so. One lady called Jelena explains to us that the best time to buy is when the trader tires of waiting for customers. It is as though there are special days when everything is in abundance and given away for nothing, says Jelena. An- tique hunters still need to hurry, with the concentration of antiques higher
The unwritten rule is that you never find what you are really seeking at the flea market. Then, if you’re wiser, you leave that to the shopaholic mob or manage to master it, until you come across a real object of desire
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