CRNA GORA / MONTENEGRO
Vrh Sniježnica: Prirodna meteorološka stanica
Crkvice: Nekada poput Beča
CRKVICE: IT WAS ONCE LIKE VIENNA Also hidden away on Orjen is Crkvice, the rainiest place in Europe, which has today died away, with only foundations and ruins there to testify to the glittering history it hides. Not only can you reach this place by car, but you will have to. And there you're awaited by a kind of journey through history and ascending two fortresses – eastern and western, Kom and Stražnik. At the turn of the 19 th and 20 th centuries, and at the beginning of the latter, this small town was a stronghold of the Austrian-Hungarian monarchy that had everything possessed by other European metropolises, such as Vienna – a cinema, theatre, shop, post office, bowling alley, school, tennis courts, a ski resort and a bakery that was the second largest on the old continent, producing up to 24 tons of bread per day. Thousands of people used to live here, with the population said to have reached up to 10,000 when soldiers and their families would stay there. Today few people wander this way. This was, for me, one of the most beautiful excursions in my life. With its very unusual and picturesque atmosphere, the landscape here is charged with a special energy. Wild nature, remains dating back to not so long ago, but still representing an impressive history, the beautiful and extremely loud chirping of birds, fantastic viewing points and high chances of encountering a roe deer while walking, which actually happened to me.
Na planini Orjen kriju se i Crkvice, naj- kišovitije mesto u Evropi, koje je da- nas izumrlo i samo su temelji i ruševine tu da posvedoče da krije blistavu istori- ju. Do samog mesta ne samo da može- te već i morate doći kolima, odakle vas čeka svojevrsno putovanje kroz istori- ju i uspon na dve tvrđave – istočnu i za- padnu, odnosno Kom i Stražnik. Na pre- lasku iz 19. u 20. vek, ova varošica, tada uporište Austrougarske monarhije, ima- la je sve što i ostale evropske metropole poput recimo Beča – bioskop, pozorište, prodavnicu, poštu, kuglanu, školu, te- niske terene, skijalište, pekaru, i to dru- gu po veličini na Starom kontinentu, koja je proizvodila i do 24 tone hleba na dan. Ovde je nekada živelo na hiljade ljudi, kažu i do 10.000 kada bi tu boravili vojni- ci sa porodicama. Danas malo ko zaluta. Za mene je ovo bio jedan od najlepših izleta u životu, atmosfera je vrlo neobič- na i slikovita, a predeo je nabijen poseb- nom energijom. Divlja priroda, ostaci ne tako davne, ali opet impozantne istorije, lep i vrlo glasan cvrkut ptica, fantastični vidikovci i velika šansa da u šetnji sretne- te srndaća, što se i meni desilo.
Ovo je neobično lep vrh orjen- skog grebena u blizini sela Ubli. Sa 1.104 metara visoke tačke po- gled puca na tri različite strane zaliva – na Morinj i ostrvca Sve- ti Đorđe i Gospa od Škrpjela, na područje Tivta i područje Herceg Novog i sam ulaz u zaliv. Uspon na Sniježnicu traje svega 20 mi- nuta, a uprkos tome što nije jed- nostavan, lako se savlada jer je kratak. Tu se nalazi i mala, kame- na crkva posvećena Svetom Ili- ji, koja datira još iz 1911. Zanimlji- vo je da meštani ovaj vrh koriste i kao svojevrsnu prirodnu meteo- rološku stanicu, jer je stalno izlo- žen sukobljavanju dva klimat- ska uticaja – onom iz Boke i onom sa Orjena, a ljudi veruju da „kad oblaci legnu na Sniježnicu, nema sumnje da će pasti kiša“. SNIJEŽNICA PEAK: NATURAL METEOROLOGICAL STATION This an unusually beautiful peak of the Orjen massif that's located near the village of Ubli. From its high point of 1,104 metres, the views extend to encompass three different sides of the bay: towards Morinj and the islets of Saint George and Our Lady of the Rocks; towards the territory of Tivat and the area of Herceg Novi; and towards the entrance to the bay. The ascent to Sniježnica takes just 20 minutes, and despite it not being a simple ascent, it is easy to master thanks to it being short. Also located there is a small, stone church dedicated to St. Elijah and dating back to 1911. It is also interesting that locals use this peak as a kind of natural meteorological station, because it is constantly exposed to two climatic influences - one coming from the Bay of Kotor and the other from Orjen itself, while people believe that “when clouds settle on Sniježnica, there's no doubt that it will rain”.
94 | Crna Gora » Montenegro
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