F ashion as we know it has been brought into question. If you thought of sticking to trod- den fashion paths and leaving experiments to fashion setters, look around you. Take a look at your closet too. Tubular forms like sleeves have fallen to the waist and become belts, collars have clasps on the back, re- verse sides become faces, nightgowns are the new dress- es, and underwear has gained a main role. Few have resisted lace skirts, once known as underskirts, which served to add volume to a dress or skirt. Shoes fused with trainers have given us sports shoes with heels. You surely have at least one of these items in your wardrobe. Of course, there are also commercial copies of designer ideas, so boutiques are flooded with unreleased models from which frills spread out.
Kragna se kopča na sredini? Može i ne mora kad model potpisuje Acne studios A collar with a clasp in the middle? It can be but doesn’t have to be when the design is signed by Acne studios
Reconsidering and taking apart existing fashion prin- ciples, demolishing taboos and forming new rules of dress- ing are among the postulates on which fashion decon- struction is based. While some creators are obsessed with emphasising silhouettes and idealising the perfect materi- al, others design pieces that do not bind but rather release. The focus is on how you feel. Clichés change, just like the banal insistence on achieving and showing an ideal figure. Such creations are taking great steps towards high fashion and are often on the border between items of clothing and works of art. The stereotypical fashion show does not apply to them. Even the idea that fashion is in constant change is deconstructed. A group of Japanese designers, including Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, shook the 20 th fashion scene and introduced the concept of deconstruction into the story. They did not enslave current trends, but rather empha- sised designer ideas and art in fashion. They made draped, asymmetrical models inspired by origami and intended for those who understand them and leave space for them to ex- press their individuality. They insisted on clothes that do not follow the lines of the body and thus become acceptable for various builds and ages. Multifunctionality is implied, so there is no specific shelf life. They created models that became syn- onymous with designer clothing, wearable, interesting, slightly shifted... and mostly black. Maison Margiela goes a step further and also applies decon- struction to presentation, placing it in the background and bring- ing unusually displayed designs in alternative locations to the fore. Maison goes so far as to even deconstruct the idea that fashion is in constant change by recycling and redesigning second-hand clothing. He boldly inverts designs and reveals their carefully con- cealed construction, while stitches breathe new life into his crea- tions and become a decorative part of his work. Fashion based on deconstruction is now something that is closest to haute couture collections as we know them. Fashion duo Dolce & Gabbana played seriously in their new collection and creat- ed a jacket made from two different ones. The cut sleeves of coats and jackets that imitate a cloak, trousers with a double belt, asym- metric t-shirts – these are just some of the designs we’ve seen at shows for the next autumn/winter collections.
Udoban kao kaput, ženstven kao pelerina. A Majkl Kors je samo prosekao rukav Comfortable like a coat, feminine like a cloak. And Michael Cors just cut off the sleeve
Regardless of whether we fall into the category of those who try to keep pace with the latest fashion craziness and wisdom, or whether we persistently try to our express originality and individual- ity through anti-fashion or wearing designs that were once current, fashion is our second skin. Not every deconstruction is good, nor is every original piece good in its own right. What we know is that reconstruction and redesign are the future of fashion. As well as the odd new material.
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