ća osnovama, tera da zastanemo i se- timo se koliko hrana zapravo povezu- je. Zato je kod njega sve natenane. On živi princip slou fuda i jedan je ključ- nih ljudi ovog pokreta. Tradicional- na, lokalna hrana sprema se i isproba- va lagano, upijanjem mirisa i ukusa. Tako se neke od Tomažovih kreaci- ja, često pripremane i po više od de- set časova, konzumiraju, recimo, u pravcu kazaljke na satu, od slabijih do jačih nota, kako bi se osetila sva njihova punoća. Posebnu pažnju po- svećuje serviranju jela, pa svoje go- ste iznenadi na najrazličitije načine, malenim zalogajima u zamotuljcima koji vise na dugoj tankoj grani, čini- jom punom prozirnog dima u kojoj se krije prava poslastica… Privilegovan je, kaže, što svakog jutra, kad krene u nabavku, prima ener- giju predela između Alpa i Mediterana, na dodirnoj tački romanskog, german- skog i slovenskog sveta. I godinama gleda da ovu autentičnost prenese lju- dima zbog kojih na kraju radnog da- na premoren legne u krevet, ali ispu- njen jer zna da je njihovo zadovoljstvo njegova najveća sreća. – Koliko god mogu, nastojim da gostu ponudim ono što je proizvede- no i ubrano na prostoru koji se vidi s terase našeg dvorca Zemono – pri- ča i u sećanje vraća dedu, vruć hleb, svež mlad sir u kojima i danas naj- radije uživa. I mada zbog obaveza oko preda- vanja, podučavanja i učestvovanja u brojnim takmičenjima često osvane na drugom kraju sveta, Tomi, kako ga prijatelji zovu, i dalje redovno osluš- kuje kako diše njegova Vipavska do- lina nadomak Ljubljane. Izjutra slu- ša dobavljače koji mu pričaju šta im daju zemlja, sunce, vetar, kiša s koji- ma se bore, a sve kako bi svojim go- stima pružio najbolje. – Svaki gost nam donese pone- ku neverovatnu priču, životno isku- stvo koje podeli s nama, donese nam energiju, smeh, nekad ozbiljnost, ali pre svega čovečnost. To onda hrani njegovu ljubav pre- ma poslu, koji ne bi mogao da bude onakav kakav jeste bez supruge, ćer- ke i majke, od koje je i nasledio posao. Pored ove tri ključne dame, u njego- vom životu ipak postoji još jedan taj- ni sastojak uspeha. – Bez obzira na godine, položaj u društvu i bogatstvo, ništa ne bi- smo mogli bez neostvarenih snova. Oni nas pune stvaralačkim entuzi- jazmom.
on you, as the owner. And all of this respon- sibility must ultimately result in the guest smiling when they leave the restaurant. That’s why that smile is the most beautiful experience – says this owner of world-re- nowned restaurant “Gostilna pri Lojzetu”, which opened back in 1897 in the 17 th -cen- tury Zemono Manor. In this fast-paced time, Tomaž takes us back to basics, compels us to stop and remember how much food actually con-
nects us. That’s why with him everything is leisurely. He lives by the principle of slow food and is one of this movement’s key figures. Traditional, local foods are cooked and sampled unhurriedly, absorbing aro- mas and flavours. Some of Tomaž’s crea- tions, which often take more than ten hours to prepare, are consumed in a clockwise di- rection, from weaker to stronger notes, in order for all of their fullness to be felt. He devotes special attention to the way meals are served, so he surprises his guests with small morsels in wrappers that hang from a long thin branch or bowls filled with trans- parent smoke that hides the real treats... He is privileged, he says, because every morning when he heads out for supplies he receives the energy of the region be- tween the Alps and the Mediterranean, at the point where the Romanesque, German- ic and Slavic worlds touch. And for years
he has sought to relate this authenticity to the people, which is why he goes to bed each night exhausted, but also fulfilled in the knowl- edge that their satisfaction is his greatest happiness. - As much as I can, I endeavour to offer the guests things which have been produced and picked in the area visible from the terraces of our Zemono
JASTOG S POVR EM Potrebno za 4 osobe: 1 jastog od 1 kg, 100 g šargarepe, 100 g boranije, 15 listo- va bosiljka, 3 g sojinog lecitina u prahu, sok od pola limuna, sok marakuje, pire od graška, majonez sa aromom bosiljka, so, 300 ml maslinovog ulja Priprema: Jastoga kuvajte u vodi 15 mi- nuta. Izvadite ga, meso odvojte od repa, a glavu ocedite od tečnosti. U supu do-
dajte 100 ml vode, maslinovo ulje i tri lista bosiljka, pa vratite meso jastoga i ostavite na sobnoj temperaturi 20 minuta. Za to vreme u pola litre vode umešajte osta- tak bosiljka. Procedite, pa dodajte limunov sok, soli po ukusu i sojin lecitin i štapnim mikserom umutite vazdu- šasti krem. Servis: Na tanjir stavite šargarepu, preko boraniju, a na nju meso jastoga. Preko stavite krem od bosiljka i deko- rišite pireom od graška, marakujom i majonezom. LOBSTER WITH VEGETABLES Ingredients required for 4 people: 1 lobster weighing 1kg, 100g carrots, 100g runner beans, 15 basil leaves, 3g soy lecithin powder, the juice of half a lemon, the juice of a passion fruit, pea puree, mayonnaise with the aroma of basil, salt, 300ml olive oil Preparation: Boil the lobster in water for 15 minutes. Remove, separate the meat from the tail and strain the head of liquid. Add to the stock 100ml of water, olive oil and three basil leaves, then return the lobster meat and leave to stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. During this time, add the remaining basil leaves to half a litre of water. Strain, then add the lemon juice, salt to taste and soy lecithin, then use a handheld blender to mix the aerated cream. Presentation: Place a carrot on the plate, cover with the runner beans, then place the lobster meat on top. Driz- zle the cream of basil over the top and decorate with the pea, passion fruit and mayonnaise puree.
Manor restaurant – he says, recalling his grandfather and the hot bread and fresh young cheese which he still enjoys the most to this day. And although obligations of teach- ing, lecturing and participating in numer- ous competitions often take him to other parts of the world, Tomi, as he is known to his friends, still regularly listens to the way his Vipava Valley breathes near Ljublja- na. In the morning he listens to the sup- pliers who tell him what they have been given by the land, the sun, the wind, and the rain, all in order to be able to give his guests the best. - Every guest brings us some unbeliev- able story, some life experience that they share with us, bringing us energy, laugh- ter, sometimes seriousness, but above all humanity. That in turn feeds his love towards his work, which wouldn’t be what it is without his wife, daughter and mother, from whom he inherited the job. Alongside these three key ladies, his life also includes another se- cret ingredient of success. - Regardless of the passage of years, position in society and wealth, we couldn’t do anything with- out our unrealised dreams. That’s because they fill us with creative enthusiasm.
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