Hobotnice Svetog Save Ispisujući svojevrsne srednjovekovne manastirske pravilni- ke, Sveti Sava posebno sugeriše šta se i kad sme jesti. Na- ročitu zanimljivost u tim dragocenim spisima predstavlja in- sistiranje na konzumiranju hobotnica. Ako prihvatimo da to nije neobično kada je reč o Hilandaru, budući da se nala- zi u blizini mora, postaje gotovo misteriozno kad se hobotni- ce pojave i u monaškom jelovniku Studenice. Međutim, kad se ima u vidu da monah treba da se uzdrži od konzumira-
SAINT SAVA’S OCTOPUS When writing a kind of guideline for medieval monasteries, Saint Sava provided specific suggestions on what should be eaten and when. Particularly interesting in these precious writings is his insistence on the consumption of octopuses. If we accept that this isn’t unusual when it comes to Hilandar, given that it is located near the sea, it becomes almost mysterious when octopuses appear on the monastic menu of Studenica Monastery. However, when we consider that
nja namirnica koje podrazumevaju krv i vatru, te da se riba jede izuzet- no retko, upravo zbog krvi, upored- nim uvidom u ishranu ondašnjeg vi- zantijskog monaštva postaje jasno da su hobotnice, lignje i školjke često na monaškoj trpezi, i to ne kao ekskluzivne delicije, već kao ona hrana koja ne sadrži krv. lation, and bee-keeping was practi- cally the first profession in domes- tic food production. Sources clearly show us that the tables of rulers and prominent people were also adorned with seafood and sea fish, figs, al- monds, bitter oranges, lemons, ol- ive oil and expensive wines and spic- es, as well as sugar that was worth as much as gold. From the 12 th century, nobles in Ras ate peaches, and the soil of Ser- bian lands has since time immemo-
made of precious metal. One complete- ly exceptional example is the so-called goblet of Emperor Dušan, which is pre- sumed to have been ordered at a craft workshop in Kotor. At the peak of the country’s power, in the late 14 th and ear- ly 15 th centuries, luxurious tableware ar- rived on the ruling tables of the Serbian Despotate from Germany, Hungary and Italy. These were mostly dishes made of glass and metal. There is no doubt that a sense of or- der was known at the tables of Serbian a monk should refrain from consuming foods that involve blood and fire, and that fish is eaten extremely rarely, precisely due to the blood, comparative insight into the diet of the Byzantine monasticism of the time makes it clear that octopuses, squid and shellfish were often found on the monastic table, and not as exclusive delicacies, rather as types of food that do not contain blood.
rial been rich in various types of forest fruits, mush- rooms and game. Findings from individual waste pits prove that lamb dominated in mountainous regions, but sources also indicate that locals happily reared pigs, while salted and dried meats were prestigious Serbian exports during the Middle Ages. Food was cooked in pots and usually baked on a hearth, in an open fire, and less commonly in spe- cially built ovens. As a rule, utensils used for pre- paring food were made of ceramics, most similar to the one made by skilled potters even today, while iron or bronze cauldrons, such as the one found in Ras, were quite exceptional. Wider use of tin-bronze vessels began during the 14 th century, when Serbia’s medieval lands strengthened economically. Dishes made of glazed and unglazed ceramics also domi- nated on tables that were covered in the finest lin- en tablecloths for special occasions. It was only with the strengthening of Serbian rulers in the 14 th century, or with the formation of powerful and rich urban centres at the beginning of the 15 th century, such as those in Belgrade, No- vo Brdo or Smederevo, that incomparably more lux- urious pots and dishes began appearing on tables, with a special emphasis on expensive wine goblets
rulers and dignitaries, just as that was known at the tables of ordinary people. It is well known from com- parative medieval sources that the diners at feasts were usually all men, with women joining them on- ly on extremely rare occasions, and that such excep- tions were made only when it came to lady rulers. In the case of public, general feasts of the masses, men were served first, followed by women, and fi- nally children. There was also a kind of hierarchy at large feasts, in terms of the arrangement of tables, or the quan- tity and quality of food presented to members of different classes. It was also a practise for the ruler to determine when, in which quantities and what sort of food would be distributed to the poor after great celebrations. Alongside the hierarchy and fine clothing, the feast had another special dimension – music, song and entertainment. Musicians, acrobats, fire eat- ers, beast tamers, dancers and actors were indis- pensable participants in the public spectacle during bazaars, but also during wedding celebrations and other feasts. Even particularly gleeful rulers, such as Stefan the First-Crowned, would take a gusle fid- dle in hands and play and sing to guests.
14.
vek je vreme kada sa ekonomskim jačanjem zemlje počinje korišćenje kalajisanog bronzanog posuđa The 14 th century was when the use of tin-bronze cast dishes began, with the country’s economic strengthening
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