Courthouse to look at Museum of Westward Expansion exhibits, moved from the arch for temporary display there during the renovations. Our visit was enhanced by the performance of a string ensemble from the St. Louis Symphony. It was a lovely and varied production, featuring some toe-tapping fiddle music, a few Scott Joplin favorites, and a couple of classical movements. Some parts of the Old Courthouse date to 1821 but the impressive Italian Renaissance dome was installed in 1862. The four-story domed rotunda with its ornamental balconies and elegant Greek Revival columns and pilasters represents the very best of 19th-century public architecture in America. During the afternoon, we strolled around Laclede’s Landing, a popular—and historic—riverfront dining and entertainment district named after one of the French fur traders who founded St. Louis in 1764. A late lunch at Hannegan’s Pub found us making a big mess out of a large and delectable rack of St. Louis-style barbecued ribs. Later, we were swept up in game-time excitement as thousands of local Cardinal fans converged on Busch Stadium for a playoff game with the Chicago Cubs. It was fun watching folks casting off their cares and woes—and turning out with real energy and enthusiasm in support of the home team. The following day found us exploring Missouri Botanical Garden. Established in 1859, it’s one of the oldest botanical institutions in the country—and a National Historic Landmark. It’s quite an oasis, with 79 acres of horticultural displays, an enchanting Japanese strolling garden (largest in America), and a gleaming geodesic dome conservatory. We also visited the St. Louis Zoo, which was a big surprise on several counts, including its free admission policy—and its stellar reputation in the zoological world. Since its inception in 1910, the zoo has been renowned for its naturalistic exhibits and its diverse collection of more than 560 species of animals, many of them rare and endangered, from around the world. It is widely recognized for its innovative approaches to animal management and wildlife conservation. We saw beasties of all sizes and descriptions—from anteaters to black rhinos—and particularly enjoyed the Penguin Cove exhibit, the first walk-through sub-Antarctic penguin exhibit in North America. This is a truly incredible exhibit, with realistic sea cliffs providing nesting grounds for four species of penguins (Humboldts, gentoos, rockhoppers, and kings), plus colorful puffins and other seabirds. Our journey along the Great River Road to Hannibal got underway the next morning with a quick half-hour drive north from St. Louis on MO Route 367 to Alton, Illinois— not far from the confluence of America’s two largest and longest rivers, the Missouri and Mississippi—where we paid a visit to the National Great Rivers Museum in East Alton. Located adjacent to the Melvin Price Locks and
Crowds gather at Ballpark Village adjacent Busch Stadium for pre- game festivities during the 2015 National League baseball playoffs between St. Louis Cardinals and Chicago Cubs in St. Louis.
Penguin Cove is one of the most entertaining exhibits at the St. Louis Zoo. Photo by Gil Courson, St. Louis Zoo.
16 COAST TO COAST SUMMER 2016
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