By John Bibby, Oleg Volk Photos Lots of people in the gun community have a truck or a trunk gun. For most people, it’s some type of beater rifle or shotgun. The theory is “why beat up a good gun by bouncing it around in the trunk?” Just throw a beater in there and forget about it. I am not a fan of that tech- nique. Of all the guns you own, only your carry pistol is more likely to be used in earnest. The trunk gun needs to work when you grab it. I am not suggesting that you buy a new $3500 Daniel Defense AR-15 with a $1200 Trijicon, then do high-speed off-road driving with it loosely tossed in the trunk. That defies common sense and fiscal responsibility; but there’s a middle ground between grandpa’s worn out 870 Wingmaster and a high-end AR with expensive optics. I went through a stage where my truck gun was defi - nitely closer to Grandpa’s worn out 870. Like many, my TRUCK GUN TRUNK GUN
logic shaded heavily towards being cheap. Then one day, I almost had to use my truck gun. As my hand slid up the stock of a Mosin Nagant M-44 (carbine), I had this sick feeling of, why do I have THIS gun? I’d removed the fold- ing bayonet as a precaution against weaselly DA’s and it was loaded with soft-point bullets. But, at that moment I really didn’t think having an inexpensive, flame-throwing brute of a bolt gun was my best idea. As things turned out, I didn’t need the rifle. It did however change my mind on what was important in a vehicle long gun. Price and the gun getting scratched became much less of a concern. Now, on the driver side, I have a 9mm AR pistol with a Tailhook Mod 2 brace. The gun sits chambered (on safe) with a 33-round G lock magazine in it, downloaded to 31 rounds plus the one in the chamber. My theory is that if 32 rounds of 9mm HP haven’t gotten the job done… the missing two won’t have mattered. Downloading will help
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