People aren’t the only visitors to the beach. Great blue heron can also be seen to patrol the shore.
Orange Beach is one of Alabama’s coastal jewels.
the same family.” Nestled between the high-rise condos of Gulf Shores and the commercial centers of Orange Beach lies one of Alabama’s coastal jewels—undeveloped Gulf State Park with its 1,540-foot-long fishing pier, the Gulf of Mexico’s second longest. Hiking and biking paths crisscross within the park, home to RV campgrounds and lakes. Despite the relatively short coastline, Alabama has the largest offshore reef system in the country with artificial reef structures—concrete triangles, ships and cars— sunk to bolster fishing and diving habitats. Thus, it’s no surprise that the area’s mostly homegrown restaurants and eateries serve up seafood caught daily—grouper, triggerfish, cobia, mackerel, amberjack, and red snapper, to name a few. “Red snapper was discovered here in the 1800s and for years Orange Beach was known as the red snapper capital of the world,” says local fisherman and boat captain Randy Boggs, owner of REEL Surprise Charters. Local seafood specialties include sweet coconut shrimp and the unique, so-called Royal Red shrimp. “They come from deep depths of 2,000 to 4,000 feet and if they’re cooked right, you don’t have to do a lot of work to get
them out of the shell,” says Chris Steele of Gulf Shore’s family owned De Soto’s Seafood Kitchen. “If you’re used to lobster or snow crab, I think they’re up there with that quality and texture of seafood.” For a look back to Civil War history, I take State Route 180 west for more than 20 miles to reach Fort Morgan, passing pastel-colored beach houses and the Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge, a great place for hiking and birding. Completed in the 1830s, Fort Morgan was the last Confederate stronghold on the Gulf of Mexico. It’s along the shores of where the 1864 Battle of Mobile Bay took place. This is where Union Admiral David Farragut supposedly shouted his famous command, “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead,” when he ordered his fleet through a line of Confederate-planted underwater mines. By evening, I’m back in Orange Beach where I see sleek blue herons with their stick-like legs gingerly walking on the modern marina’s docks of The Wharf commercial district, located along the Intracoastal Waterway. It’s where décor shops sell such sea-themed objects as pelicans carved from driftwood, mermaid figurines, and an oyster shell chandelier. A nightly light and music show illuminates a row of central palm trees with dancing colored lights as visitors ride one of the South’s largest Ferris wheels.
EMERALD COAST
COAST TO COAST FALL MAGAZINE 2017
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