DOWNUNDER / ALAMY
DESTINACIJA / DESTINATION
FROM MY PERSONAL PERSPECTIVE Another magical Lisbon story
Despite the city of Wenders’ beautiful film having largely disappeared, the last decade has seen some new kids raise the Portuguese style and life philosophy to an irresistible new level T he Marquis of Pombal Square is an essential point for every tourist visiting Lisbon. Located in close proximity to this square is a street named after famous 19 th -cen- tury Portuguese novelist Camilo Caste- lo Branco. There you should enter build- ing number 33, which lacks any sign, and head boldly up the steep stairs to the top floor, where – somewhat out of breath – you will enter the restaurant of the Lis- bon Volunteer Firefighters Association. Known to locals for its traditional Portu- guese dishes, informal environment and very affordable prices, such places are a rarity in modern Lisbon, which is why you should visit them. You can get a sense of the new Lisbon at the Time Out Market, a converted for- mer market located in the neighbour- hood of Cais do Sodre, which is one of Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhoods and the most attractive when it comes to nightlife. This is a place where the lo- cals mingle with tourists, and a good time is guaranteed for everyone want- ing to experience the atmosphere of Lis- bon’s nightlife. Time Out has become an unavoidable port of call where well- known chefs and Lisbon’s most promis- ing young chefs join forces to serve their guests from mini versions of their res- taurants. And there’s plenty to see and taste. Near King Pedro IV Square, known pop- ularly as Rossio Square, are a couple of venues that specialise in Ginjinha li- queur. A few of them, with old stained-
glass windows and messages promoting the purchasing of beverages, in the style of the Belle Époque, are usually locat- ed in cramped spaces and occupy small stalls. Such cramped spaces ensure that customers drink standing up, socialis- ing outside the bar, bringing the street to life with their toasts and thus attracting the attention of passers-by. The liqueur is served in glasses and can be ordered with or without cherries. Ginjinha liqueur is created by combining morello cherries with sugar, cognac and spices, usually cinnamon. Produced on the outskirts of Lisbon, in the Arruda dos Vinhos munic- ipality that’s known for its good wines, it is made from the best cherries from Óbi- dos (80 km north of Lisbon). There ginja cherries are served in chocolate cups. The number 28 and 12 trams are also es- sential (tram 12 covers half the distance of tram 28’s route and is therefore cheap- er). Both have circular routes travers- ing Lisbon’s historical quarters and hills. They are also ideal for reaching some of the most impressive cultural and pano- ramic viewing spots in the intricate laby- rinth that is Lisbon, filled with alleys and lanes that are connected by staircases and passageways. If you have time, “jump across” to the impressive monument of Christ the King – the King of Kings and Emperor of Em- perors, which is located on the opposite side of the Tagus in Almada and which dominates the landscape on both sides of the river. The foot of this monument, which is also the best vantage point in
the city, provides a fantastic view over the capital, extending to the 25 th April Bridge and the longest river of the Iberi- an Peninsula, which empties into the At- lantic. You will need to catch a ferry from the Cais do Sodré ferry terminal to reach the monument, followed by a short bus ride from Cacilhas bus station. The com- plete journey takes approximately an hour, with a return trip costing less than 10 euros. Inspired by Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer statue, Lisbon’s Christ the King monument was erected in 1959. If your journey leads you to the city of Setubal, located less than 50 km from Lisbon, be sure to visit the restaurant Adega Leo do Petisco. It’s worth the wait for the fried cuttlefish that should be drizzled with lemon juice as soon as it ar- rives at the table. Served with a fresh sal- ad and a side order of fries, this is one re- gional speciality that you simply must try. And be sure to share, as the portions are big. If the possibility arises, first pay a visit to Arrábida Natural Park and its beaches (Portinho da Arrábida and Praia da Figuerinha), then head to Setúbal for lunch and take a ferry across the Sa- do River in the afternoon to the Tróia peninsula, with its kilometres of beach- es and clear ocean waters. If you are driv- ing, nip over to Sesimbra, a famous fish- ing town that’s known for an even more famous and tasty fish from the depths of the Atlantic Ocean that’s called the Black Scabbardfish (lat. Aphanopus carbo), which might look scary, but tastes deli- cious nonetheless.
106 | Lisabon » Lisbon
Made with FlippingBook interactive PDF creator