December 2022

Food & Drink RESTAURANT REVIEW Plotting the Future The Plot in Oceanside is a working model for what restaurants can be, memorable food and all

BY TROY JOHNSON PHOTOS BY JAMES TRAN

The Perfect Order KALE SALAD CÄVIAR AND POTATO CAKES CRÄB CAKES

he Plot is a restaurant, sure. But sitting here staring at the on-site garden, reading menu items like “lentil caviar” and “kale stem marrow,” and listening to servers describe dishes with the words “pulp” and “spent” and “regenerative”—it feels more like a working model for the future of food. Chef Davin Waite and his wife/partner Jessica Waite launched The Plot in January 2020 (yikes, T

timing). Their goal: to go beyond sustainability and become a regenerative business, not just minimizing impact, but actively rebuilding the loam and air and sky and environment. There’s still much work to do (convincing vendors to reduce packaging, a more robust municipal composting system, etc.). So for now, they and chef de cuisine Ryan Orlando (who trained at Charlie Palmer, Pamplemousse Grille) are sourcing ingredients from mostly regenerative local farms

24 DECEMBER 2022

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