GREAT WINES FROM A CHALLENGING CLIMATE
these are not easy conversations, and changes must happen via legislation. Last year, it was huge news that the French government allowed Bordeaux to add six new grape varieties to the five it has grown for centuries. The wine regions of Baja and San Diego are not bound by tradition. Many have already embraced grapes from France’s southern Rhône Valley, like mourvèdre. “For a long while, this was too weird for a lot of people,” says Broomell. “But mourvèdre is something special that can come out of San Diego.” “In the next 20 years, there’s going to be a huge change in the varieties planted,” says Emily Towe of J. Brix in Escondido. Towe also sees varieties from the south of France, such as grenache, picpoul, and carignan, as the answer. “Because San Diego is so experimental and they’re planting so much Rhône, they’re ahead of the game,” she says. In Valle de Guadalupe, which bills itself as the “Napa of Mexico,” changing grape varieties is more challenging. Right now, the signature grape of the region is the Italian grape nebbiolo—though many put “nebbiolo” in quotes since there’s a genetic link to the famous Nebbiolo of Italy’s Piedmont region. “Climate is forcing us to choose,” says Magoni, who experiments with growing 120 varieties. “If you ask me, ‘Which one is the future?’ I don’t know,” he says with a laugh. “We need to find a grape that’s an icon, like malbec in Argentina.” But how do you convince wine tourists to switch to unfamiliar grapes like mourvèdre, falanghina, fiano, vermentino, and aglianico? “Maybe we need to start blending to introduce the grapes,” Magoni says. “Some chardonnay with 20 percent vermentino, so people start hearing the name vermentino. It could take another ten years, but we need to start. The top winemakers in the region see these changes as more positive than negative. “I hate what climate change is doing, but I love that it’s pushing the boundaries of what people do,” says Stehly of Vesper Vineyards. "You can’t just grow pinot noir anymore."
BRUMA PLAN B TINTO VALLE DE GUADALUPE, $26
Fresh, fruity blend of grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, and nebbiolo with gushing acidity, notes of red berries, herbs, and an elegant finish.
J. BRIX “ISLAND OF SOULS” 2021 SAN DIEGO COUNTY, $28
Skin-contact blend of grenache blanc, Picpoul, and vermentino is super drinkable, bursting with tropical and stone fruits, dry and balanced with great structure.
MADERA 5 CAVA ARAGON 126 ROJO VALLE DE GUADALUPE, $35 Juicy blend of tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, and a bit of mourvèdre that’s bright and earthy with notes of purple flowers, cherry, and tobacco.
VESPER VINEYARDS MCCORMICK RANCH CARIGNAN 2015 SAN DIEGO COUNTY, $28
From 40-year-old vineyards, deep and intense, with dark fruit, elegant tannins, and a long finish.
CASA MAGONI “MANAZ” VINO BLANCO VALLE DE GUADALUPE, $17 Unique blend of viognier and fiano that’s ripe and full of tropical fruit and citrus but balanced by an underlying minerality and firm, crisp finish.
LOS PILARES 'NAKOA' 2020 SAN DIEGO COUNTY, $23
White made from the southern Italian grape falanghina, it’s crisp and zippy with notes of pears and white pepper.
BODEGAS HENRI LURTON CHENIN CENTENARIO RESERVA VALLE DE GUADALUPE, $43
Surprising Baja chenin blanc that tastes like France’s Loire Valley, a balance of bright and creamy with notes of honey, beeswax, and golden apple.
49 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE
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